IN FASHION’S REALM.

Otago Witness, Issue 3662, 20 May 1924, Page 63

IN FASHION’S REALM.

WEEKLY UP-TO-DATE DRESS NOTES.

By

Marguerite.

You will always note in tho various fashion budgets a something to suggest that all the thoughts of yesterday were seconclrate, and killed by the thought of now and “early to come,” a wonderful thought, the kind that makes you feel inclined to strike an attitude. This king of thing can be overdone, and in my opinion is. For if there are to be no exceptions, then the thought of to-day will be similarly described the moment it has served its purpose. I myself have never known ugly fashions—that is, at the time. They only seem ugly later, and then it is because they have been put aside. But- with it there is this: those who indulge their opinions too easily may have to find some fault with the new fashions also, as, of course, whatever is strange, is always peculiar. This may explain why designers are seldom radical. Notwithstanding the attacks on the de/igns just done with, it would never do to have the new so different as to suggest “another country.” A little is always carried forward a-s jam on the pill, so that if a radical change is noted it will be by dropping two or three seasons as intervening for the comparison. You will notice some of this weakness to decry what is departing in the following—an excellent thing by a lady residing in Paris. It reads: “The world’s fashion centre is not forecasting a phase of low spirits. It intimates that the most truly feminine of all colours, blue, will dominate t.he sartorial domain for both daytime and evening wear. Every shade of this colour will be chic, but the two tones most in favour will be the old-fashioned navy, of which the very smart tailleurs will be designed, and the bleu- poudre, soft, shimmering blue with a silver glow like the dust on a butterfly’s wing. Years ago every woman saw to it that, a navy blue “tailor-made” was part of each season’s wardrobe. That was in the time before beige, taupe, indigo, prow blue, and black became the thing—before brown, thatfamily of many variants from cream to seal, entered the lists and sent navy skipping.” She goes on : “Black and white has held Paris captive for some eight months now. It began last winter with the penguin gown, and has continued. Our spring has been frankly a black and white one. But those watchful ones whose eyes are ever in search of the outriders of the nextfashion rage prophesy that the streak of blue along the horizon presages the most radical return to this faminine shade, so easily the belle of all colours. Bleu poudre will be seen in the tulle evening gown and in the chiffon gown, whoso fluffy voluminousness will make the evening styles of the summer to be a. thing of witchery. It is in a mode belonging to youth and straight- lino models in powder blue fabrics of heavier weave that charm will reach the acme.” Try it on the hat and now. Here is a design that would suit. I conclude that you would use two shades, and make the most of them, with just that little touch of fur to give all a winter touch The

shape incidentally is a “get-away” from the little round hat with the apology of

a brim, and in ibis connection I note that an effort will be made at no distant date to say that tho latter is out of date. I come to something] which lias just i caught my eye in a scientific journal. It . is on thickened ankles. The way it is | put is quite alarming. We are wearing | heels that are like little stilts. They are ! pretty, of course, but the good man and j true, being a doctor, says that the mi- j natural strain on the foot is steadily de- j mancling a thickened ankle by way of com- j pensation. This, I think, is quite horrible, I and it is because it seems so very logical, j Of course, there it is at once: you cannot j sacrifice anything without Nature intruding to replace it. Tho average shoe of to-day is certainly very charming, but, oh ! what heels are seen in the case of those who are only five foot nothing and wapt to be thought taller. I scan the diagrams with tho article, and they are fearsome. They show the foot in skeleton form, and demonstrate just why ibis forward pressure through the heel being elevated too much cat,scs the ankle to expand. Nothwithstanding the time of the year, j there are many who will persist in those j very short sleeves, and, of course. I aim j to please all. The design has such ; but j there is no harm done, as, if it doesn't suit, J it, is a very easy matter to add a sleeve j of the right kind —one that flares freely, !

or appears to do over a filling, a differentfinish closing to the wrist. There is nothing much to be said of the dress, 'save that it is another in the gallery of what’s going. But I might, perhaps, mention the sham girdle, as I see that these treatments are very popular. The style of styles, however, is the straight up and clown, where the bodice part is marked, off around the hips, or very little higher. Adorable dresses are seen with this as the standard idea. Moreover, so many little diversions are made possible by employing two materials, and then in rather sharp contrast. But. not to render the. bodice distinct. On the contrary. any such departure will only make the “oneness” of tlie dress a little more emphatic. Thus the lighter material will be employed as a panel of some kind, and be extended on to the skirt, for all the world like a tiny apron. And with the other material plain, a little embroidery will be found of service on the- Unifier in just, that tone But it is ever so hard to explain a dress in cold type. Suppose, therefore, we have the thing from the “pencil.” You see it on the right. This is the kind of dress that appeals—a loose, “swaying” selection that exhibits youth at its best. Incidentally, while serge would be nice, it is an excellent, design if you have not yet quarrelled with velvet or velveteen. Small though the drawing,

it will repay a little study. The other dress is equally charming; in tact some