IN FASHION’S REALM.

Otago Witness, Issue 3595, 6 February 1923, Page 55

IN FASHION’S REALM.

WEEKLY UP-TO DATE DRESS NOTES.

MARGUERITH

By

All England and all America are up in arms over the skirt length and will not wear wl.at has been decreed b V l aris. In all which connection, recalling what I nave written many a time and oft recently 1 think lam entitled to say, I told jou *o. That a greater length than now will be approved is, however, certain. And it is because, unless it is certain other things will have to be condemned, which cannot be at all— notably the long bodice and excessive drapes We cannot have it both ways - the short skirt of yore and ihe long bodice etc of now. At the same tune there is a f- m ,t it all n-oes back to what 1 said before—that in the case of the short skirt, these very long effects give the wearer the appearance of having been sawed off There is more in this than meets the yuIf the French decree as regards the lone skirt is rejected as much as indicated, it will affect tlio entire dress scheme yes, ha s boots, and all. As regards footwear, theshops are crowded with a most alluring display of shoe buckles, m every shape and form, in paste, m jet, in cut ste 1 and in coloured beads. Besides the old floial an indefinite scroll designs there are some very peculiar types that show little- scenes worked in “jewels,” as an owl sitting on the tip of a crescent moon, or a couple ot cate etc. This buckle is never more than an inch and a-half long, so that the delicacy of the work may be imagined. The scenic buckle is worn on ordinary court open shoes. Paris has “gambled” on the long

skirt- by making everything in keeping, and that is to go with it. The autumn-winter hats are linked •up. As it is of no use wasting space —and it would* be wasting it to give any further summer models—l 'am showing a selected “opening season” type to indicate just this—size! The shape is a soft crown with dii

embellishment of feathers, grasses, or practically what you will, but the “note” is in the brim, partly because of its size and partly because of the way it has been bent. It is a 1 urge brim arened over the face

•nd so bent down at the sides; material a ■matter of choice, but necessarily good because of there being so much of it.

I present one of the new styles where you combine two materials, one patterned, the other plain. We have the first for the bodice and the second for the skirt, and in drawing as much let me say this—in view of that skirt length cable I have shortened the skirt by something, and made it a kind of compromise. But it entailed short ening the bodice, too, in order to preserve the balance. As you have it here it is a pretty opening season’s model, especially for afternoon use, and also for “occasions.” Though only a touch, the “black” ribbon is made the most of—to fashion a girdle and to face the rather charming cuff. As we have got to move with the times we must take note of the many whimsicalities that reach us in the way of adviCe. The eye is on the future —on the things that are going to stamp the smart girl as smarter than ever. Thus, if she wants to wear her handkerchief in the latest Paris-London-New York way, she will have it caught at the wrist wiah a tiny suede band to match the costume. And what kind of handkerchief, pray? What they are calling the new “sports, h otherwise handkerchief in heavy French crepe with colour combinations. Over the way—meaning in London—they have been selling the handker chiefs, for from 3s to 6s each and the suede straps for 4s. But this one trifle is one and one only. The observer, knowing what's what, will want to see one of the new necklaces, and then plenty of it. This wonderful necklace will he of crystaline beads—plain or with clear ro-ndels, in sapphire, rose, amethyst, topaz, green; or, let us say, white with black rondels or black with white. There will be other smart things to mention, and as fast as they come under my notice I shall pass them on. But back to hats. You can have no conception of the extraordinary range-* promised, and which I vouch for from the fact that I have seen the array, even though only pictured. One hat that attracted me was a kind of jockey shape, but with a “bluebell” brim, and while this was bound by a very tliin trail of leaves, half a dozen ribbons floated from either side in loops and ends ,narrow and with a picot edge. Another delightful model was as round as the proverbial beehive, and over it was thrown a veil of lace, which fell over the bodice either side to a distance of many inches. A third was a round crown set in a sharply turned brim “hedged” all round with a stiff frill, a quill descending over the cheek completing. And a fourth was like a “Napoleon” with t'he sides removed, and over it arched half a dozen very thin and narrow feathers.

The fifth attracted me enough to send my pencil to paper, and here it is. The original was, I think, of black satin—a peculiar shape no matter how considered.

For the crown was .of band . and crown equally, arid the brim of that negligent order that, takes some making to look entirely well. And then there was a spray of feather fronds, and how they were arranged is of importance—downward in conformity with the cortimon decree. Amazingly decorative dresses will yet be seen as regards what. is possible with a mere colour combination.. . I have these modes for the coming season before me. One —a dress which is of a plain material to the extent of a .long collar to limit of a low waist, of the lower part of a belled sleeve, and of the sides of the skirt, all the rest being in pattern, and such a confused scroll. Two—a frock with a made stripe, this being applied on the bodice back and front in check style, and on the skirt back and front in a stripe. Three —a dress of plain material with bodice shield, armlets, and pieces on the skirt in scrolls. And, four, for the best of the lot—a dress of plain material with a coloured one used to provide a round neck, two frontal bands (sides) from this to the hem of the skirt and the l*wer half of the sleeve. And taking the basic material there is a sash in keeping, tied loosely round the hips into a great- bow with streaming ends. But there is nothing like the picture to drive home a new stvle. As I told-you before, some wonderful sleeves will be seen. In the sketch in the panel you have one of the many possibilities—a sleeve indeed

the lining of which is dark and in compleuten with a braid used in chevron form on the dress. Alongside is a demure little model that is bound to please. The bodice is long, the ; kirt long enough, and braid is used to just the extent that is advisable for a finish.