IN FASHION’S REALM.

Otago Witness, Issue 3594, 30 January 1923, Page 56

IN FASHION’S REALM.

WEEKLY UP-TO-DATE DRESS NOTES.

By

Marguerith.

As no hard and fast rules have, been laid down ns regards the material from which the coatee can correctly be made it follows that colour can run riot where taste demands. Jazz designs and Oriental patterns are freely indulged in, and in due time a feature will be the high collar and cuff ends—both in fur. There is another “coatee” coming which will be found not to be a coatee at all, but only something very like it. For the hem will be “pinched,” and that, too, to the very figure, as though caught with a girdle. This conies through the much lowered waist. With such with dresses, down to the hips, naturally the designers have evolved a “coatee” in keeping. J have seen quite a score in picture form, and can say this—they will get us for a very easy conquest. Let me again say as though caught with a girdle.” In several pictures I observed that this was a fancy in embroidery, but in two, evidently well advanced models, I saw that it was of fur. I think you can visualise the idea—the coatee fully straight with something about it suggesting that it would like to flare, and then gathered m as prettily as' possible to loose girdle finish, such being of anything ornamental enough that will suit or of narrow, flat fur.

We may as well make the most of the hats that are trimmed on summery lines while we can, as “to-morrow” they will be as the swallows nests of a bygone year. I am often attracted by the fruit decorations. Here is a hat whifh I have trimmed

with mixed small fruit and leaves with a little ribbon to finish. It will be any last summer’s hat. The size of the brim may be easily approximated by outlining the circular border and then carrying the curves round to complete. The autumn hats which I have glimpsed from afar to date have in the main been of the large variety. This is to apply to the brim. The crowns have been fairly high and generally pouchy, and the brims arched over the face. The large hat, however, will not be all ruling, nor would it be desirable if it were. The reason for this is well indicated in this little note from Paris, timed to correspond with the falling of the leaves here: —“The almost universal adoption of the high collar makes it absolutely necessary to give preference to the small hat rather than the large one. Miniature headwear is also more seasonable, because it stands the wind pressure. Little hats, close fitting and made of black satin, have large floating veils draped over the side and are sometimes trimmed with fur.” In wondering what particular dress design to launch to-day, I had some thought of the present as well as of the future. As

said before it is of no use wasting space illustrating- modes that are more or less on the wane. And yet if something is taken tnat is too far ahead it serves no useful object either. For such reason I decided in favour of an autumn mode that would have something of immediate value, and hence this type an evening dress, or a reception, or, I may say, a “state occasion.” Verily hath the Moor come to Venice, as note the extraordinary sleeves and the trailing sides—a dress which, if presented sideways, too, I venture to say, looks quite Oriental. But these are not the only things to speak about. Some note may be taken of the girdle because it is plaited, and thousands of girdles will be; and then of the skirt length whidh short by nature and long through the way the 'shortness is camouflaged. But “evening” is not everything. The elimination of the clinging effect will be noted in thousands of day dresses. As an example you may study the upper section of a second selection. To complete the costume there is only one tiling required—to carry the lines down, and they will include that embroidered band from the shoulder and that other from the waist.

It is the. loose fit that is the feature, and then the sleeve—a sleeve, yes, but also in a way, a cape. These draped designs later on will be found jtery choice, but it is my opinion that they will require a good deal of making. I£ would indeed be strange if the newest modes had not suggested to the designers something in the way of shawls. I read that London has launched what some call the “granny” shawl. I have seen a picture of it. Fashioned on somewhat capeisn lines, it has a collar by the way it folds, meets in front well down; and when the arm is raised, that particular part takes the form of a belled sleeve. Such a shawl would be

a rather luxurious possession, as I see that it is made of lace. The word runs —“It cannot be too good.” I gather, however, that it may also be knitted, in which case it is just the kind of thing that might be made at home. At the same time who can say what bargains will be available in this way where the knitting has been done by machinery. Here are two delightful little dresses for girlish wear. The model on the left is on the very simplest lines, and the dress is enhanced in value by a crocheted collar and girdle. The one on the right, however, is the better design. It has a very free

sleeve of the helled variety, and is very charmingly improved by those straps, which, descending the full length of the front, are finally turned under the hem. The two dresses are good now, and will remain good.

LADIES’ GOSSIP.

CREDIT FOR AN AUSTRALIAN WOMAN. The specifications for the £6,000,000 Sydney Harbour bridge upon which tenders were called, were almost entirely drawn up by Miss Kathleen Butlerj secretary to Mr J. J. C. Bradfield, engineer, who designed the bridge that will stretch to North Sydney. The specifications went to all parts of the world, and were much praised by American contractors and others. Miss Butler joined the public service in 1910. WOMAN'S POLITICAL POWER. Just before the British elections, the SixPoint Group of which Lady Rhondda is the head published a black list and a white list of candidates. The division being made as the candidates were opposed to or in favour of reforms in the interest of women. These comprise equality of pay and of opportunity and amendments to criminal laws affecting women and girls. Only 12 out of the 23 black list members have been returned, while 16 out of is<4 white list have been returned. This shows how effectually women may use their voting power. THE BRITISH PRIME MINISTER FAVOURS WOMEN POLICE. Mr Bonar Law, when lately interviewed bv a deputation from women s societies promised carefully to consider the establishment of women police in London. “I think it essential,” he said, “that women should be employed m connection with police work in all those matters in which their knowledge and experience render them suitable. A SOCIALISTIC STATE. In Bulgaria every youth on attaining his twentieth year is liable to serve one year as a working soldier in the National Labour army. The work consists of the construction and repair of Toads waterworks. and railways, the erection of public buildings and agricultural work. Girls are required to , give six months national service. Besides this term of State service for young adults, which is only com pulsorv for the physically fit, every Bulgarian' is required to give one week s work per year for the State. This apples even to school children, who, during the national week have to clean up and repair their school buildings and yards and carry out anv improvements ordered by the < ,(n ment The policy of the Premier, M. Stambolinski, who came into power through the peasant revolution of 1918, is to estab fish P land workers on their own farms so lar !r e estates have been subdivided, and a law JSsed to limit the area of privately ownJS land to 14 acres. Eighty per cent, of Bulgarians are peasants. HINTS AND SUCCESTI ONS. Elies are becoming troublesome and if vou have not a proper meat safe, make one with butter muslin and cane. The bolster-like bag should be wide enough to hold a fair-sized joint, and drawn up at the bottom with strong thread. Hold out the sides with hoops of cane sewn into position. Two hoops will be sufficient. Make a hem at the tops that will hold a strong tape to draw it up close. A meat hook can be inserted to suspend a joint, and a plate fixed in the bottom of the bag will hold another portion of food to be protected from flies. I here should be a loop of tape as well as the draw-up tape, by which to suspend the meat safe from a shelf or ceiling hook. Points for the milk pudding maker. (1) To save fuel, so;* large grains, such as sago, barley, or tapioca, for a while before cooking. (2) If eggs are used, never add them until the grain is well cooked, otherwise they will curdle. (3) Remember that a double saucepan is invaluable for a mixture which needs long cooking, and which can be given little attention. When inviting dishes are wanted for after tennis, suppers, etc., and both eggs and tomatoes are reasonable, this is a dainty dish: Boil as many eggs as required hard, and plunge them into cold water to prevent discolouration, then shell and cut them in half. Select some ripe tomatoes much of a size, a-nd allow them to rest for a few minutes in boiling water, and they will peel easily. After peeling,

nee-op out sufficient pulp from each tomato and press in half an egg, pointed end upwards, and arrange the tomatoes on a bed of crisp lettuce leaves. Give a final touch by sprinkling a little very finely chopped parsley over the tips of the eggs. , Oil of geranium is a pleasant preventive for insect bites. Moisten a pad of cotton wool with it and pass it lightly over the face, neck, arms, and ankles,. Puddings containing custard should always be cooked slowly. A'paste of starch and water applied to the spot after a bruise or blow will prevent discolouration. When making jam smear the bottom of the preserving pan with butter, and the contents will not burn. Rub gas globes with paper slightly moistened with paraffin. It will clean them and make them less liable to crack. Irons will not stick if, when you make your starch, you mix in one lump of sugar and a shaving of candle or white curd soap. Rave the water in which potatoes have been boiled and use it for washing silver. It will make spoons and forks bright and remove stains.

HOME INTERESTS.

SHREWSBURY CAKEiS. Three-quarters of a pound of flour, Jib of butter, Jib of castor sugar, one egg, and the rind of half a grated lemon Beat the butter and sugar together. Then add the egg and flavouring, and then enough flour to make a firm, rather dry paste. Roll this out quite thin on a board sprinkled with sugar, and cut into rounds with a rather large biscuitcutter. Bake brown in a moderate oven, and cool on a cake-wire before putting away. This recipe may be varied a great deal by the changing of the flavour. Some people like a little spice in their biscuits, while others prefer a pinch of ginger. Some find a few caraway seeds a great addition to the lemon, while others think that a few chopped almonds mixed into the paste are nicest of all. TREACLE CAKE. One pound of flour. Jib each of sultanas, and the best l.eef dripping, two- teasp xmfuls of baking powder, two eggs, and two tablespoonfuls of treacle. Sift together the flour and baking-powder, and then rub the dripping into them. Beat up the eggs, warm the treacle,, and add it to them. Beat all together, adding the snltiu-.s last of all. Put intq .a. 2lb case-tin and bake one hour and a-half in an oven which is rather sharp at first, and then nicely steady till the cake is cooked through. The surest way of lining a tin so that the cake will never burn is; don’t' grease it at all. Take c-trong, white kitchen paper, double it four thick, and cut out around which fits the bottom of <lie tin. Now cut a band, also four thick, which fits round the tin and stands up a ecupife of inches above the top. A tin prepared in this wav will never burn YORKSHIRE .SEED CAKE. One pound of flour. Jib of best beef dripping, Jib of sugar, one tables poonfui of golden i syrup, one heaped teaspoon bak-ing-powder, one, teacupful and a-haif of itxilfc, one tablespoonful of caraway seeds, and loz of chopped candied peel. Sift together the dry ingredients. Warm the dripping and syrup, and stir them in. Add the milk, and beat all steadily with a wooden spoon for five minutes. Pour into a prepared tin, and bake one hour and a-half. A seed cake is very often baked in a loaf tin. Many people prefer it like this because it gets a larger amount of that brown crust which is so nice. This mixture makes delicious little buns if it is cooked in small tins. The email tins must be greased, of course, as you cannot bother yourself to line each with paper; but they are not likely to burn as the small buns cook so quickly. RICE CAKES. Half a pound each of ground rice, flour, and butter, Jib of sugar, four eggs, and two teaspoonfuls of baking-powder. Beat the sugar and butter to a’ cream. Sift all the dry ingredients together, and beat them in, moistening the paste with a little egg when it gets too stiff. Work it- lightly, and roll it out thin on a floured board. Cut it into rounds, and bake 20 minutes in a moderate oven. Let the biscuits get quite cool. Then spread raspberry jam thinly between them and clap them together in pairs, dusting icing sugar over their tops. You may think this recipe rather costly on account of thnumber of eggs. If you like, you can take on.y two eggs, and use a little milk to make up. The biscuits are almost as good when done like that, but their colour, naturally is not so pretty. DEVONSHIRE SANDWICHES (SWEET). Any soft ripe fruit can be riseu; strawberries and raspberries are perhaps nicest, but good jam will give excellent results. Required: Clotted cream, about 4oz: ripe fruit, about 40z.; sugar to taste: almonds (sweet), about six; brown bread. Break the fruit down lightly', mix it with the cream and finely-chopped shelled, almonds. Add eugar to taste. Cut the bread thicker than is usuallv done for sandwiches —about Jin thick ie best—spread thickly with the mixture, leaving one end unspread, so that it can Ire easily held in the fingers. FRUIT TARTLETS. Use strawberries or raspberries if possible, or preserved fruits in syrup. Fill these tartlets the last thing. Required: Short pastry (rich), lib; ratafias, 2oz: fruit, Jib; cream, half a pint; sherry, one. glass: lemon, one; sugar, to taste. Roll out the pastry thinly. Cut it into rounds, and with it line some deep, smallish, fluted pattytins. Fill these cases with small broken bits of stale crusts of bread i norder to keep the pastry in shape, and then bake in a moderately hot. oven for about 20 minutes or till a delicate biscuit tint and nice and crisp. Next pick out carefully all the crusts and let cases become cold. Break the ratafias in small, pieces, soak them in the wine and strained lemon juice till fairly soft. Prepare the fruit, whip and flavour the cream, put a small spoonful of it in each pastrycase.