IN FASHION'S FARM

Otago Witness, Issue 3512, 5 July 1921, Page 50

IN FASHION'S FARM

WEEKLY UP-TO-DATE DRESS NOTES lix Marqcep.itk. The coat frock is ail the rage, duo to several resans —one, it is easy to make (this is reason); two, whatever the cut "it stays put”; three, it is economical. One sec 3 coat frocks everywhere, and the f ishion at once proclaims that the waist is out ot it. What' waist there really is is made; in other words, it is secured by means of a girdle or belt, which draws the garment in to just enough to suggest it. A coat frock may be either a very ordinary aiiair oi a thing of heuuty and a joy for as long as ever the wearer likes. In my opinion there is no finer material for tins style than a good serge, but not too heavy for obvious reasons. I saw one only a day or two ago that invited my second inspection. The material had been bought and the frock entrusted to a tailor—a real eve. Exqusitively cut, it was also rer. \ ricable for its finish, the stitching, the “edging” as it were, and the general set ail proclaiming a master hand. With three simple seif-fasteners there it was, the collar ns perfect as a man’s, the bodice part as straight as possible, the sleeves flared, but not too much, and the skirt part just the least bit full. The belt fastening loosely with the usual extended “V” droop in front served at once to relieve any suggestion of monotony of line, a id as though not esteemed sufficient even so it was assisted by two very clever flouting hip panels which, coming to an extended “V” point, were freely wrought with bold embroidery in lighter tone. Worn by a young girl who was able to do justice to it, it was nevertheless more or less spoilt by tne hat, which was about as suited to a coat frock us it would have been to a wedding dress. A coat frock is essentially a tailorish garment, no matter by whom made. With such simplicity of line it would be impossible for it to be otherwise. And this being so, it entails the wearing of a tailorish bat —something moderately severe, and all the better in some way en suite. This hat should be worn with a strict regard for its poise, as if pulled down too much it will give the goner :1 effect a touch of dowdiness. The best of all hats for a coat frock is a small one, and yet. not too small, of velvet and m tone, and with as little trimming as ever possible. It should bo smart, and even jaunty, as with the coat frock so much the reverse of what would justify being described in terms of jaunticess this one concession to that quality is more or less necessary. Given the voice ■with a hat to suit the coat frock just described, I should declare for a velvet hat

with a pork-pie or rolled brim with the least ribbon and with that brim as a cardinal note embellished with just the kind of embroidery I observed in connection with the hip panels. “En suite” dressing, always in the best of taste, is sometimes more or less necessary . Here is the upper section of a coat frock, and as you will see at a glance it is on very tailorish lines. But the skirt is pleated at the sides, and such pleats extend like the panel that divides the sets

till the way down. Here we have no embroidery, nor. would it be in keeping. Instead something is made of an edging to the collar, and if a light touch is desirable then in the artificial posy set against the belt. It will be observed that a “fur” has been used, and such is more with the object of throwing up the drawing than with any other. . As a matter of fact, furs want to be sparingly used with any tailored garment. in that this is generally so well able to take care of itself. Speaking of furs generally, they are exceedingly popular, and the more so perhaps because of the prices at which they are being offered—even the best. Tito very fur coats appear to have obeyed the call for lower prices, as noted by what is pinned against them, or to them, or in relation. ’ The little furs embrace sets, the collai and cuffs. These are all sorts of shapes, sailor and semi-sailor and full round. There are silver greys of several varieties, blacks in marten, whites in fox, brown in several varieties again. And there are imitations, and such imitations—imitation bearskin ana Siberian, etc., of most excellent charactor. From the little furs it is a step to fur trimmings. They have to be noticed because they have to be procured. These trimmings are narrow, say from an inch (even lees) to two inches. Mole are good selection, fox another, with imitations of the latter in black and white as good, prac-

finally, speaking, as the real fur. Fur trimming is a most useful thing to turn to. It will often help a garment through as though given a new life, and it is invaluable in the work of studying certain millinery renovations when the shape and style permit. The mind runs much on top coats, which are dressier than ever. In fact, a top coat nowadays is to all intents and purposes a kind of supplementary dress. With so many different styles all exciting admiration it is difficult to make a choice. But

this struck me as having some special recommendation, and hence its selection for my full length figure. The charm is partly in the fur collar, lifit more so in those cleverly designed extended pockets below the belt, one useful purpose served by them being that they break the line in about the easiest way possible. The knitted coats are fairly common — knitted woollen coats finished in contrastive stripes with rtpekets and girdle belt; sports coats with long stole collar, inset with fancy block design in constrastive tone, cuffs, collar, and sash belt. The knitted jumpers afe no less delectable —styles with square collar, cuffs and band below belt in fleeced contrast; eamd with the straight line effect, with collar and cuffs and broad liip piece in fleeced contrast. But you can go for a whole frock —the knitted coatfrock, which may be in a fancy stitch with stole ends and wool-covered buttons, the skirt being buttoned on to a jumper effect, which is advisable, if not more or less necessary. The brushed wool scarves are delightful —scarves with stripes as sand with henna, henna with lemon, grey with saxe, arjd so forth. Or the scarf may be with contrastive striped ends —champagne with emerald stripes, golden brown with saxe, navy with saxe, violet and bottle green, and so forth once more. But there are scarves of other kinds, as velour with border stripes, re versiblo and of rather general use. There

aro again stockinette scarves, and finally there is the choice lambs-wool scarf, which is generally what a man would get with

an utter indifference to the price so long as it served its purpose. . The more negligent wraps are sometimes very beautiful. Some are distinguished for their capes, sometimes for their collars ancl cape together. What do you think of this selection, one side of the cape being raised to show the contour of the wrap proper. A good deal of tho charm in these garments lies in the collar, which is frequently a kind of miniature cape in itself.

The millinery of the hour is most varied. To emphasise any particular shape or style is a pure waste of time. We have happily reached a stage in progress when a hat. is chosen with regard to how it will suit the frock, whereas in other days it was got with an utter indifference as to this consideration. The hats that win attention include some delightful shapes in silk velvet, - trimmed with vivid Oriental colourings—a selection that is wise with certain frocks. They also take in a range in velours and wool, liseres and brushed wools, and again a class in feather toques, which have their place on tho right occasions. The leaning, I should say, is for the sedate hat with a dash of colour, which, to compensate, may be as bright as glory itself. Two sketches are given in tne one space. The coat on the left is on pretty lines, and with a decided “p-ull” through the way the pockets are treated. The “straight-

ishness” of everything is commendable, and the buttoning smart. The long coat on the right, if coat it may bo called, is simply modish, with its fur coilar and pockets; but a feature is in the quilted cuffs —a good idea when you come to think of it. Both garments are fashionable as drawn, the coat being everything nowadays; and both are more so because oi their embellishments. These, though slight, are still sufficient—sufficient to stamp what they adorn as last words in the moving picture show of styles.