IN FASHION’S REALM.

Otago Witness, Issue 3511, 28 June 1921, Page 49

IN FASHION’S REALM.

WEEKLY UP TO-DATE DRESS NOTES.

Br

Marguerite.

Taking tlie cue from a Manufacturers’ Week, and what is shown on these occa siens, why i« it not possible, in connection with technical education, for every centra to have a permanent exhibition of the arts of peace in the making. Imagine tho delight with which a class, say of , choulgirls, would inspect all together—machines making lints, gloves, shoes, stockings, ribbons, fabrics, right through the entire list. I aver that it would induce respect for as much and prove a most valuable object lesson —the best moving show out. Realise all the care taken to provide these beauti ful things, and then respect them by treating them with care enough to justify your moral right to them. In a word, she who preserves her clothes sits with the elect while she who hacks them out is no more than a vandal. A tine material proclaims a very popular prevailing note with dresses—the straight semi-tunic style with the girdle to break the monotony. Observe the fluted pockets, the lines of which would eventually dis-

appear in the length, and ihe pretty fluted front from tlie s:ish. thr-Ii a style is emineiitK suited to any slender figure or, indeed to almost any other. Space permitting. .1 include something to illustrate the length of a blouse with a pleated skirt—another popular selection. if only for a change, did ever you see such beautiful boots and shoes as now? Gone are the freakish things of the early war years with their extraordinary lacings and furred tops —at times —ideas that were clearly from the “wigwam.” It is shoes that have the run just now-ms enamel court shoes with lm. ks pump solc6 and Cuban heels; or fur something more sub-

Ft;intial Oxfords in black suede with stout pump soles and high heels. But a shoe tha-t invites attention is neither the one lior the other. Cubed by some tin? "anklet,” it has a short vamp and a round toe, el out sole and high lit el, and is equally good in patent or suede, black for preference. Strictly speaking, it should be ihe boot that should count just now. V ith skirts so short such should bo considered necessary for comfort. Everyone will remember how they used to rail against the pneumonic blouse. Why not, pray, something about the rheumatic shoe? Embroideries are all the rage, and of embroideries bold stitcheries all the preference. With the facilities what they are to cover a good deal of ground in a tphoii space of time, naturally some of these effects are extensive, meaning that they occupy much space. ’lhe neck or collar is always a limited field, contrive we as we may, but the fronts of certain types of blouses make up for it, and failing these the tunic ex-

tensions of same or of coats. This Particular field may be fairly ‘'flounced”* in such a way, everything being left to iho art of the designer, who will do well to study colours before essaying the task. 111,., skirts- or some of them-—will permit of something of the kind, and especially if there are pockets to work on. Revelling to the previous illustration, stitehecy could be made to beautify those rounded “pockets” —a little on each and some tuoro or less in motif style. But here you have it in very earnest —a coat which admits of all desired, and the more so because it is so peculiarly shaped—a orescent in front, a straight otherwise, to commend itself —a well shaped coat: with a stepped closing, fur collar, embroidered extension, and plain skirt. There are not many ’Tains about, which, observing their beauty, is a pity. Perhaps, however, the Tam is apologised for in the boudoir—a hat that, suggests this by iU contour, especially sideways. There will bo

curved brim and close against it, for though this extends, the crown is a veritable-pouch, plain as ever you like to have it, but gathered into the brim. And the presence of a smart bow with flowing ends at the back will at once suggest that it has been drawn in that way notwithstanding that it has been nothing of the kind. Incidentally when the crown is made so much of, a little stitching all round when it can be seen is very pardonable, always provided that it is well done. Hats all round are as diverse as thought itself —lovely for the most part, and, what is more, of economical construction. It is a cheap lra-t age just now as regards the price* at which satisfactory selections are marked. Here are two pictures in the one space, one part and parcel of a dress, and the other the coat of a costume; one showing the front and side, the other the back and enough of #tko side to indicate the nature of the front. Taking the first, it is another example, of the straight frock where the bodice is extended to connect with the skirt at about the hip level, the choice being of the same material, or of two, as may happen. The example is useful, as

showing the pretty effect of embroidered bands when employed for the kind of waistcoat outline, and again as showing the advantage of pleats or gathers against what is smooth. The coat needs no special reference beyond this—the pleated back, whether centre or both sides is much liked just now, the latter being my selection for reasons which are obvious. Incidentally the hat gives some idea of a becoming shape, and also the value of a simple trimming when just what it should be for finish and ornament together. It is a fur season, with everything made of if both in the way of furs, meaning what you put on, and in the way of fur, meaning what is used as a trimming. Furs you put on may be either costly or not—it depends on “the nature of the beast,” verily and beyond all question. But as there are so many furs, presumably from beasts that have increased and multiplied beyond the ordinary, quite as effective as the best, my faith goes out to those that meet the requirements of the purse as well as those of the wearer owning it. Again it is the. season for little furs., as in spite of the size of collars and so forth, a little goes a long way when it is not intended as a garment. Of course, there are fur coats right out, and top coats at that; but count the number in a day’s march among those you see and then say if it is really worth while. As for fur as a trimming, nine-tenths of the battle is in the collar. True, fur is used to embellish other parts, but the great note is the fur collar, especially with a coat of any sort. For a choice the fur employed in this relation will be flatfish, meaning not hairylooking ’and not too conspicuous, although all fur is more or less so. Fur is used in millinery, but sparingly; anyhow, I do not see so much of it as formerly.

Although Ihe collar of the coat, a section of which is shown in the panel, is not

of fur, it might be, and in many models 1 have seen of the type is. Here it is the material, and the one object in giving the picture at all is to illustrate once more tiie size of this feature with “any” top coat.