IN FASHION'S REALM.

Otago Witness, Issue 3488, 18 January 1921, Page 48

IN FASHION'S REALM.

WEEKLY UP-TO-DATE DRESS NOTES. By M> RGrruiTE. With tho New Year our thoughts will soon pass to autumn. Pretty well all the present-day hats are of the over-the-head kind—something mushroomy, with the brim as regular aa a Roping “verandah” or the least bit tip tilted like the lip of a bell ; and the crown turns from the brim to intensity this impression and is domed. The next thing after the shape is the straw, and that includes the plait. The finer plaits are quite discounted by the looser and broader kinds. In fact, basket-weave was never so justified, since quite a number are to all intents and purposes as pronounced in the pattern as a market basket. But the weave is good all tho same —that is to say, even, with the lines severely correct.

Getting that far, the next thing is the trimming. It is simplicity itself —a mere band of ribbon, fastened, perhaps, with an ornament at back for the ends to stream over the brim; or such with little bow knots and ends at distances all round; or at most a broad swathe with a loose tie bow, crisp or ne-gligent as the kind may determine. But the ribbon, if narrow, may be repeated on the edge, or, as I saw in one case, repeated by twisting it and laying the strand half way between the crown and edge. , , leaves and grasses with or without fruit, and fruit with or without them, is the note for trimming. It is always small fruit, and generally red fruit —little apples or cherries, or what presumably haa to pass for grapes or some other form of berry. The ideal effect if a ribbon is used is a bunch in front, or if a ribbon is not used then a trail of leaves with the fruit just where desired. Quite the prettiest thing I have seen in this respect was reminiscent of the classical wreath. The leaves were in two sprays from the back, where the stalks were crossed and tied with a bow. And, as though so inspired, the leaves rose as they came round the front, where the last just met. Finally, little berries were employed at intervals to complete the suggestion of “Caesar’s laurels.” I have spoken only of the straw hats. Of course, things vary when you get to the hat with a straw brim and a silk crown —over a pretty combination —and still more so when you get to an all-silk, etc. By the way. seme of us get tired of these eternal tunic styles. Hence that spice that comes with change in a return to the old form of tailored suit ; and yet not quite as it used to be, as in spite of the severity there is a siiroestion of the “indolent” touch of to-day. Now, a coat of this

character can always be worn by anyone of slender proportions, and be very sure of this —if well made it will gain by the many contrasts. It is a true tailor, but it is buttoned very low, and as there are only two buttons, and these abreast, they may be as large as ever you like. But my reason for giving this coat was to draw attention to the charm of any severe coat with the pleated skirt. A pleated skirt may go with anything, and yet that other thing, for good dressing, will assuredly be plain. I have just marked the skirt in this to show what 1 mean —a pleated skirt, and one rather finely pleated at that. And yet everyone is wearing the tunic blouse, and that, too, in all its forms, possible and not so possible. It is, of course. a most charming thing. and peculiarly apt with the silhouette what it is—as straight as ever it is possible to make it. For the tunic, no matter how contrived, always suggests a coat effect. And this is none the less true when, everything being of the one complexion, the dividing line is not too observable. These tunic blouses appear to he tremendously favoured by girls in their teens, who seem to gain greater youth—if that is the right way of putting it—by its adoption. But the tunic is frequently produced by the addition of a band to an ordinary blouse, or at least so by effect.

One very serviceable point about the tunic extension is when it is not a tunic at all but a real flounce. And it is when it is a scrap and simply laid on, the suggestion of a patch being quite removed by capping the short sleeves in keeping. I am always referring to the stripe, ever a most serviceable pattern. Here you have » very nice suit where the stripe is used

to great, advantage. The coat Ravours of the sports, and the pockets are a pleasing feature. These striped materials are in groat variety—narrow and broad and open and close. Commend me to the narrow all

the time, with a reasonable division, and then to one that is not too pronounced as regards shade. The skirt is not going to be lengthened greatly. You will almost certainly be told that it will be, if only that the fashionwriters must have something fresh to say. But believe them not, for 1 have seen the autumn catalogues. True, there will be some little extension, but I surmise that this :!! be a concession to the temperature. The short skirt has come to stay, and I shall be bold enough to say for ever. Who would resume that trailing garment which, when it was in vogue, was a constant theme for denunciation by practically every doctor in the land ? The short skirt, only frightened us because it was so unusual. Having got used to it we intend to keep it —that and the natural waist together. This illustrates, more or less well, what can be done to simulate the tunic. But the limitations of a sketch being what they are, I have had to render the second material pronounced. It would, of course.

be as vague a shade as ever desired. Glancing at the blouse, this Raglan is ever one of the prettiest. We have never abandoned our faith in the sleeve in one. Whether the neck is round or square is a detail —it is the garment itself that counts. The Raglan lends itself to the short sleeve, or to the flare, but not, as things are, to the close shirt-like kind. It is a blouse that is good for utility wear, and also for occasion. And chief recommendation, perhaps, it is so easy to make. The term “running a blouse up” was never more in order than when referring to Raglan. The one-piece frock, as now worn, requires litle more shaping than a nightdress, slightly drawn in at the waist. It is very popular for the slim, and, with its short sleeve and rounded neck, is donned either with or without a s'eeveless tunic — though I prefer it with, as looking more finished and dressy. The skirt may be ornamented with la-id-on tucks which are now seem oftener than the little frills, in contrast effects. Anything simpler can scarcely be imagined. I have seen some few of the white muslin “puritan cross-over pelerines” worn with these instead of the sleeveless tunic or jumper. Such are edged with frills, very narrow. Given a sky-blue voile flock of this description, with laidon tucks of wee rosebud pattern on a blue ground, the crossover pelerine, sleeves “cuffed” in harmony, white silk hose, blue or white kid shoes, white flop hat of the “Dolly Varden” order trimmed with a cornflower trail, and what could compete? This is a choice little blouse. In some respects it seems a bit old ; but. it is quite the thing, and the short sleeve redeems it at once. It is the blouse of the frock, the

undrawn part being quite plain. At the same time the design is good !ct a separate. All blouses nearly of this character are as good in one relation as another. By the way, the new surfing toilettes are something artistic. “Scrumptious!” as I heard a young lady admirer declare. They are three-piece, if I may include the cap to match, which is quite indispensable; or I might even term them fcmr-piece, for there is the sash. Yes, a “sash” tied at side with long ends. The tunic comes to just above the knee. The material is mostly stockingette or very fine serge, and combination colours. Stripes predominate, and the colouring is very bright. With many the tunic is self colour —bright green, buff, purple, and so on.