EXPLORING THE HAAST RIVER IN 1865.

Otago Witness, Issue 3415, 29 August 1919, Page 65

EXPLORING THE HAAST RIVER IN 1865.

By Geo M. Hassing. Night wsnea, the vapours round the mountains curled Melt into ir-orn, and light awakes tho world. In the summer of 1860 the Makarora Valley, at the head of Lake Wanaka, was a terra incognita, but in August of that year, in company with Mr H. S. Thomson, of West Wanaka, I set out to examine the pine forest located some seven miles up the valley. In a small dinghy, with a pair of manuka oars, we worked our way laboriously up to the head of the lake. Here we found the flat, some five or six miles wide, extending from the mountains east and west, but narrowing, as it continued northward for a distance of 20 miles up to the Haast Pass. The Makarora Valley was at that period covered by an entangled, impenetrable mass of cabbage trees, flax, and fern, growing to a height of Bft to 10ft, and the ground a jungle of dried and decayed vegetation, over which it was utterly impossible to make any headway. The only access to the bush was by following the river-beaches and fording the river whenever obstructions presented themselves. To get over the difficulty -in our attempt to reach the bush we started' a fire at the head of . the lake. This soon developed into one unbroken, seething ocean of flame from hillside to hillside, and, fanned by a southerly wind, it raged for three days and nights, travelling up the valley 20 miles. It was a terrific blaze, that levelled everything in its course, and disclosed the charred remains of an old Maori pa near the bush, the old Maori Kaika Paekae (the place of abundant food). This great fire transformed the appearance of the country, so that in March, 1855, when the late William Docherty and I started on our exploring trip by way of Lake Wanaka, the Makarora Valley presented a beautiful caroet of luxuriant grass, over which it was a pleasure to travel. THE START was made from Makarora. We took,with us a pack-horse, carrying a hundredweight, chiefly oatmeal and salt, also a gun and plenty of ammunition, and my faithful retriever . dog, Spriggins. We travelled up the valley over fine native grass country till we entered the bridle-track leading up to the saddle or pass, which, forms a complete break in the dividing range. It is a low -terrace or plateau about 500ffc high, and four or five miles square, the mountains on either side rising abruptly to a height of 5000 ft. It forms the most remarkable break anywhere in the Southern Alps. Here we entered the birch forest, perfectly open, and after travelling a distance of five or six miles, during which we crossed the Fish Stream (a tributary of the Makarora) three times, we found ourselves on the edge of a low terrace overlooking the two small streams which form the head waters of the Haast River.

We had a rather awkward job in building a temporary stage to get our horse out of the bed of the Fish River, the banks being some 12ft high, and quite vertical. Though verv risky, we managed it all right. "We followed the Haast down about eight miles over good river-bed travelling to where a gorge brought us up. Here we turned adrift the horse, which found its wav back to Makarora, while we shouldered our swags through the gorge, a distance of 10 miles, over very rough scrambling, to the junction of the Burke River, which enters from the south, and where we made our depot. Half-way through the gorge the Will's River joins from the north. A NARROW SQUEAK. We had to make three journeys back and forward through the corge, following the south side of the river. On one of these journeys a terrible thunder storm came on while we were in the centre of the gorge, so we "took temporary refuge in a natural cave running a considerable distance into the rocky side of the hill just above the river. The floor of the cave rose gradually, and we both went to the end, some 30 yards from the mouth. After remaining there about half an hour investigating, we got the surprise of our lives on retracing our steps to the mouth, where we found that the river had risen fully 3ft above the entrance to the cave, and was roaring down with terrific force, almost cutting off our onlv possible chance of escape by a narrow and dangerous ledge. We were not slow in scrambling out, and our escape was certainly miraculous, as had we remained another 15 minutes before discovering the state of affairs, we should certainly have been drowned like rats in a hole, for that afternoon the river rose 30ft in the gorge. A NIGHT SURPRISE. Our first object was to explore the Burke up to the twin peaks, Pollux and Castor, from' whence it takes its source. After spending a day in forming a camn and in preparations, we turned in, and slept soundly until suddenly awakened by a most unearthly roar, resembling that of a donkey in distress. Dochertv sprang up and seized a tomahawk, while I collared the gun, and we rushed out. of the tent in pitch darkness. Spriggins kept silent, but alert, and at the next roar made a spring and seized the disturber, a large, fat kakapo. Though we had seen a stuffed one, neither of us had ever met one in his native haunts, and we had no idea that a bird could possibly utter such an appalling, nerve-splitting yell. Of course, we cooked that fellow for the breakfast, and found him equal in flavour to a prime turkey. The Burke winds its way from the south through mountains clothed in splendid open birch forest. We prospected several miles up from its junction with the Haast, but found no trace of gold. We next explored and prospected the Haast down towards the sea, keeping on the south side of the river, as all its large tributaries — the Clark, Cascade,- and Thomas—enter

from the north. The bush simply teemed with game, such as kiwis, kakapos, wekas, pigeons, and kakas, while the climate is both milder and drier than that of Hokitika or Grey districts. The scenery is trulv indescribable in its beautv. Taking a southerly view from the Burke junction down the Haast Valley and up the Clark River, with Mount Cook in the distant background, is undoubtedly the most snblime I ever beheld in this or any other part of the world. To describe such a glorious panorama is impossible. To be at all realised it must be seen. A NIGHT ADVENTURE. On prospecting down the Haast, we reached within seven miles of the sea, where the bush on either bank formed a complete jungle, so we were obliged to Eitch our camp for the night on the river ed. In the middle of a dark night I was awakened by - Docherty, who had been aroused by the wash of the river close to the tent. On going outside we found the river, backed up by the rising tide, surrounding our tent on every side, and still rising fast. Though pitch dark, there was not a moment to be lost. We hurriedly struck our camp, rolled mi the tent, fly, and swags (which we tied at the back of"our necks), plunged into the river, and swam for the north bank, where we landed safely but exhausted. Luckily our matches (which we kept in a soda-water bottle, securely corked) were dry, and we succeeded after much trial atod perseverance in lighting a fire. It took a week of hard scramble and fording flooded rivers to return to the Clark. Here, after penetrating a belt of forest, we discovered a magnificent area of, open grass land, some 10,000 acres—the largest area of open country on the West Coast. This we decided to apply for as a run. SNOWED IN. After fully reconnoitring and taking the bearings of the grass country, we continued our prospecting up the Clark towards its source. Though we came across traces of gold in different places, there was nothing struck that was very encouraging. Noticing a break or saddle in the coast range, we decided to cross and make for the West Coast diggings by way of the Cook or the Paringa Rivers. It was a fine, evening in June when we crossed this saddle in the range, and beheld a mountain plateau with a lagoon in the centre, and apparently another pass in the distance leading to the Coast. We did not take the compass bearing of this saddle, but made for the lagoon, where we camped. During the night it came on a blinding snowstorm, which continued without intermission for 48 hours. Just the top of our tent was visible when the snow ceased. Then 'intense- frost set in, so that we could walk firmly on the top of 3ft of 6now without breaking through. During the three days we were obliged to camp here we subsisted on- raw oatmeal and salt. One little mountain wren flew into our tent, swallowed the string of the oatmeal bag, then rolled over dead. "This is an ill omen," exclaimed Docherty. When the weather cleared we had to leave our tent and fly, which were frozen as hard as iron, and buried in frozen snow. We made for the pass, which we had hoped would lead us down to the coast, but when we got to the edge found an almost (vertical wall several hundred feet high, more or less covered with scrub and vegetation. To reach the bottom of this was a wonderful scramble, but we managed it safely. After our three days' spell in' the snow, how we did enjoy a roaring driftwood fire and a half-dozen roasted woodh-ens! A DISAPPOINTING SURPRISE. The following evening while making our way down the creek- we came to what appeared a recent camping place at its junction with the river. We noticed a recent fireplace, with kiwi and kakapo feathers scattered about. Then an indescribable feeling of stupid surprise and numbness seized both of us. We gazed at each other as we recognised the spot as our own camping ground of a week previously. The mystery then dawned upon-.us. Instead of the pass leadings us to the coast, it simply lead us round the same mountain peak through another pass and stream down to the very spot we had occupied more than a week previously. However, we did not turn back again, but pushed on for our depot at the Burke. Here we made up our mind to retrace our steps by way of the Haast Pass, which we crossed on June 21, after having' been on our journey 90 days, during which time we never saw trace of. a human being. I need scarcely add that we had thrilling adventures and hairbreadth escapes on that eventful journey. The result of our explorations were the discovery of a large area of excellent grazing country and a correct geographical knowledge of the tributaries of the Haast River. We also ascertained that gold existed in several of its tributaries, though we did not deem it payable then, owing to the difficulty in getting provisions at that time. The trip was also the means of drawing attention to the auriferous nature of that part of Westland, and, in the following year, enabled me to prospect and open out a payable claim, which brought about a rush to the beach between the Haast and Okeoru Rivers, where some 700 or 800 miners did fairly well. My effort in connection, with the run proved a losing failure; but someone else reaped the benefit of it. My adventurous companion, William Docherty, after a strenuous life spent in pioneering and exploring, passed peacefully to a better world 23 years ago in Preservation Inlet.