IN THE LAKE COUNTRY

Otago Witness, Issue 3384, 22 January 1919, Page 42

IN THE LAKE COUNTRY

BEAUTIFUL LAKE MACKENZIE. CROSSING LAKE HARRIS SADDLE. The following description of an adventurous trip in tlio wilds round about Lake Wakatipu has been written by one of two Dunedin tourists who made the journey: On Boxing Day we travelled fro m Queenstown on the Earnslaw, and arrived at our starting-place—Elfin Bay —about 10 a.m. We carried provisions on our backs sufficient to last five days. Going up the track to Lake Bore wo found that this path had become rather overgrown in places, but an expert axeman could straighten out things in a very short time, and if this work were done I am sure that it would be much appreciated by the many who picnic in that locality in the summer months; Arriving at Rero in about three-quarters of an hour, we stopped to take photographs, and then walked on past the suspension bridge to the Second Cascade, where we halted for lunch. Resuming our journey at 2 o'clock we soon forded an unnamed stream, and arrived on the bed of the Greenstone River. The grassy flats thereabouts are very picturesque, and, provide a charming sanctuary for waterfowl, Paradise duok being fairly numerous. A little higher x\p the gorge narrows, and we struck into tho birch forest again, but the track we followed had become overgrown, and it soon became evident to us that we had MISSED THE RIGHT ONE. The timber here is very close, and with heavy packs up we found travelling very difficult and exhausting. Wo could only keep pushing up the gorge as well as we could through the forest. After two or three journeys down in the direction of the Greenstone we found that wq were on clirTlike edges, and twice we nearly went over into the river below. At length we came out on a steep burn on the right-hand bank. It was now about 7 p.m., and we decided that, unless we struck the Hen Burn in an hour's time, we would camp in the bush for the night. We now travelled "on an angle towards the river, but to our dismay once more found ourselves on top of a steep cliff about 2Ooft above it. In climbing out of this dangerous position we stumbled on to the track which we had lost.- We nowfound ourselves travelling comfortably right down to the, ford, which we crossed a little after 8 o'clock. As it was getting rather dark we could not find a short track to the hut, but after a little detour we reached there just before 9 o'clock, thoroughly worn out. Although the hut is in a ruinous condition and the door is down, we slept very well that night. Some blankets left by the deserters who were recently captured in this vicinity added to our comfort. Next morning we resumed our journey at 7.30, and found the going very good indeed. The country is a succession of tussocky flats, streaked with numerous streams and an occasional hummock of moraine rook. The floor of the valley is about three-quarters of _ a mile wide. The Ailsas I thought very pioturesque. although just then a mist hung around them. We negotiated the last of the grassy flats and reached the junction of tho river, and "track where it strikes into the bush, about 12.30, when we halted for lunch. Resuming, our walk about 2 p.m. we had good travelling right to LAKE M'KELLAR Our first view of this pretty lake was not a good one, as it was rather misty, but when we reached the upper end of it the sun came out and we were enabled to get a photograph. Rain had been falling here earlier jn the day, and the path through the bush to Lake Howden —an easy stage—was very much rain-soaked. We arrived at the hut about 5.30; just as heavy rain commenced to fall. This is a very comfortable, roomy hut with every convenience. To add to our satisfaction there was plenty of dry timber inside, left by an earlier occupant,, and. following the unwritten law, we chopped and stored fresh wood to replace what we had burned.

As it was still raining heavily next morningl we had reluctantly to stay Inside. We had planned to go along the Te Anau track to Lakes Fergus and G'Unn ,and as it cleared about mid-day we started off. On the Key Summit you get a fine view right through the Holiyford Valley. Going down into the valley a very warm " sticky" rain fell, and it was one huge mass of steaming vapours. After our arrival at the river hank wo started to take photographs. After taking the first I noticed that tho lens of the kodak was steamed all over. This will give an idea of the humid conditions prevailing. The GORGE HERE IS SO NARROW and the mountains so high that the ordinary rising front kodak will not take them in. We followed the track in the direction of Lake Lockie as far as tho ford, but the rain had made tho river crossing too risky, as I found on trying it. It was rather a disappointment not to get through to these lakes a little further on, and there was nothing to do but retrace our steps to Lake Howden hut. Photos from the summit were not procurable, owing to the rising vapours from the valley below. Now and again we would get short flashes of the mountains through tho mists, but they would be covered again a few minutes later. Lake Howden looked very beautiful in the evening sunlight, and we' both agreed that we could profitably spend a week's holiday on its shores. Rising early next morning, we set off at 5.30 for the Routeburn, and were very nearly held up at the outset by a swollen stream. Getting across with difficulty, we struck the track, which turned out to be only tho barest semblance of one, overgrown as it is for miles. However, we managed to make slow progress After climbing about .2000 ft or so along this route we saw ahead of us an immense cascade —which I think is the Earland Fall —tumbling down tho mountainside, and later found to our surprise that we must pass right under it. Swollen as it was by the heavy rain which was still falling this was rather a formidable task; it was enough to turn one back. After several attempts WE CROSSED THIS ICY TORRENT by going into it waist high and getting wet all over. Later wo found two more of these bars to our progress. The last one before reaching Lake Mackenzie wo negotiated only by tumbling down some steep rocks, and therefore could not have retraced our steps had we been forced to do so later on. At the foot of Lake Mackenzie there is a large hummock of moraine, and we reached hero shortly after noon. weather was now clearing, and _ after a 15-minutes' spell we Tcsumed our journey, not stopping to make a meal. Contrary to tho Tourist Deparb-

ment's map, the route follows on the lefthand side of tho lake, although there is no track proper. By a piece of good luck wo struck a blazed trail, and the sun coming out revealed the lake below in all its splendour. Tho colours on this' sheet of water are most beautiful —such shades of blue and green are most rare, ' and their memory stays. The mountain peaks above it are also very fino. I think it a pity that the Tourist Department has not installed a hut in this locality. It would provide a splendid HALF-WAY HOUSE BETWEEN HOWDEN AND THE ROUTEBU&N, and would I predict soon become a favourite resort of artist-folk and other lovers of beauty. Amongst a clump of mountain daisies we stopped to take photos, and a little higher up got on to a good track which ran for about a mile to the summit. A short distance well interspersed with snow poles takes you on to the track again, and it is a well graded one and easy walking. Getting near to the Lake Harris Saddle we camo on to a beautiful bed of thousands of mountain lilies, which had.also •to be photographed. Climbing _ over the narrow saddle snow was very thick, and it was hard work climbing. Down to Lake Harris there was plenty of snow, and it was cold travelling. This lake just then looked very severe and cold looking, although truly a magnificent sight—a portion of it was frozen over. (I prefer Lake Mackenzie for real beauty.) I must admit that we struck exceptional weather here, and suppose that had we visited it a month later a great deal of the snow would be gone. Below the level of the lake the tracks /

WERE COVERRED BY DEEP SNOW, and we could only guess where they went. This made travelling very difficult and dangerous. My companion could not keep a footing when trying one crossing, and went on a bad slide, only avoiding getting dashed against a rock and over a precipice' below by a very short distance. I essayed my crossing a little higher up, and slipped through a narrow snow crevasse. My pack helped to hold me up from slipping through, and by spreading my arms I wriggled out, only to roll over, and start sliding down the mountain side, but I managed to pull up all right. We were very glad when a •sudden grade and a clear track took us out oi this country. Ordinarily, at this time of the year there is good and safe travelling right to the Saddle, but we were just unlucky in getting bad conditions. The Routeburn Valley looked very fine in the setting sun, and everybody who goes into the Routeburn at all should travel Well up this track to see the glorious panorama it presents from this viewpoint. It seemed a very long journey to the Routeburn Hut, which we reached at about 8 o'clock JUST ABOUT " ALL' IN."

x The high country travelling had tried us "severely. This stage from Howden to here is too long for one day, and were there huts at Lake "Mackenzie, much more enjoyment could be obtained out of the journey. Next morning was an ideal one, and descending the zig-zag was most delightful. The Tourist Department spared no pains to make this valley easily accessible to tourists, and, with the exception of one small washout near the crossing and a few fallen trees here and there, every track was in good order. One could very profitably spend a week in this valley by packing in on horseback sufficient supplies. After reaching the Dart we were most hospitably received at a homestead by the roadside, which we reached about noon. We then continued on our last stage of about nine miles to Kinloeh. The road hero passes through some beautiful birch forest, and reminds one of the road to Paradise. Later on you have to climb into the bush again to avoid the river. Seeing that the other tracks into the Jtouteburn Valley are well formed, I think it would bo money well spent to make this piece of road in good order all the way, as in bad _ weather it must be bad to horse and vehicular traffic along this flat. Getting near to Kinloeh Mr Bryant espied us as he was ploughing near the roadside, and guessed that we wished to cross to Glenorchy that day. Mrs Bryant arrived shortly after, and very kindly rode through the Dart on horseback to that township to ask for a launch. This arrived shortly after, and carried us across to the Earnslaw, lying at the Glenorchy wharf. • While waiting for the launch wo had a most interesting chat with Mr Bryant over his recent trip through the Hollyford to Big Bay. Mr Bryant acted as guide to the party who captured the military de- - f aulters who were arrested at Big Bay; West Coast. We much appreciated the courtesy extended us by this gentleman and his wife.