IN FASHION'S REALM.

Otago Witness, Issue 3383, 15 January 1919, Page 51

IN FASHION'S REALM.

WEEKLY UP-TO-DATE DRESS NOTES By MABGIHEIiITa. I am showing something to-day that is all summer; then something that is summer with an autumn merging, and then, when that time comes, essentially of autumn; and finallv two very choice blouses, good now a;ad eq3y good later. The first choice

owes its charm to its originality. It is what you choose to make of it—party frock or street. The model was flounced on tho. skirt in the same fashion —scallops With a double frill to follow them. What you see is attractive because of its pretty Puritanlike bodice, its unique sleeves, and its daintily-treated girdle, thoso ribbon loops being only one of the many evidences of

ribbon used to embellish in artistio touchtw. It is beyond all doubt that those who make dresses for a living will have to loot to their laurels, and that those who maks their own will have to school themselves to do better work. For this reason —the war of wits for- the commercial prize will bo waged with the second clas3 eliminated, and the third nowhere. France looks to Paris and Paris to the world; and Paris knows that the only way she* can get the world to look to her in preference to any other is by turning out designs that Will conform to the wqrld's likings and prejudices, and yet defy rivalry. Paris used hot to do this—she set the style, but London and New York, and so with all others, esteemed many of the designs extreme, and because of this compromised by borrowing from first one and then another and toning things down. The Paris designers\are now laying themselves out to attain perfection; and, judging by the catalogues J have seen, I would say that they might just as well have inscribed on them: "Ladies, you thought you knew what we were capable of before. Study these and you will come to the conclusion that wo had much in reserve." I am referring hero to the autumn modes, which I unhesitatingly declare to be the most beautiful for this.season that ever left tho Paris studio. There aro no freaks, but only this—the lines to which we have become accustomed perfected, with tunics of one kind and another,-collars and mandarin sleeves, and all the rest of it, artistic triumphs first example to last. Tho tunic will prevail, not necessarily because it is such an economical choice, but mainly because the world has been convinced that it.. is far too becoming to discard, to gratify the mere desire for a change. But such tunics! There is one' before me as I write—a tunio with slit sides, shoulder to hip, slit front and close back, which, with the under-dress in contrast, bodice sleeves and underskirt, is one of the most charming things I have seen. And the embroidery! Well, it almost baffles description. The cascading-shaped tunio will be muoh seen, bait with a difference, to which I shall como in a moment: and there will > be three-quarter tunics —that is, shaped tunics overlapped by a side panel, say on. the right, reducing ■it to that extent. Again, we shall see tunics that are merely extensions, as regards tho design of tho open collar framing a vest, the sides coming down, cascading, and then losing themselves in tho skirt at the side; and these sides will be embroidered a 3 elaborately as ever desired. Such, however, are only Selections —prominent ones, as they happen to strike the eye. But there is nothing like the picture, and so here is one of these new tunic costumes, and perhaps one of the most serviceable of all. Still, it is not a choice that will admit

of much embellishment. If any is desired at all, then let it be on the overfold of the cascade from the waist. This is a French model, redone by an American hand. With respect to millinery, every portrayer has been at a great disadvantage. Even though pretty enough, the models have lacked something for a successful rendering in the picture,, and it has been this single thing which has caused me to avoid it. The autumn styles will be different. Carrying out the main principles, we know it will be with more seasonable harmony; and the trimming being mainly of ribbon, there will be a chance for the artist to show what can bo done by an apt pencil that is faithful to the fold, twist, and turn. These London notes may serve as an indication of what will be the thing when summer gathers up her fripperies and once more departs to that goodness knows where which historians call the past: —"The made hat will be popular, and satin, faille, thin cloth, tinsel brocade, velvet, panne, and thick crepe de chine are used for covering. Black velvet facings lend a smart touch to the turned-up brim of a silk-covered hat, or a velvet crown is used With a crepe de chine brim. Imitation ospreys and ostrich feather flues are popular trimmings. Small wings are much in evidence on tailored hate. Bunches of brightcoloured velvet fruits trim the small fur toques. Woollen 6titehery and_ small ornaments made in wool offer effective trimming for the new cloth-covered hats. The upturned brim, after the fashion of the American sailor shape, and ' the widebrimmed hat with short front, are among the newest shapes for > the season. A narrow velvet chin strap is shown on some of the small turban toques. Quills are smart wear, used cither straight or curled." It is my opinion that America will make her weight felt as a co-arbiter in both styles and methods. One of the latest American hats is called the spider-web. It is a straight-up crown with the least possible dome, so that indeed it may be called flat,

and this will b© ribbed from the centre, so that, looking down, it will have the appearance of a web, or at least suggest it. And, of course, the ribs will be carried over to tho band, everything being at, oven distances. But it is really the slightly, mushroomed brim that will justify the extraordinary name siven. It will be "rayed 7 ' all round, underneath, and the ribs, cords, or whatever tho method of producing this 1 effect, connected with threads exactly as wf see in tho real thing, when, following /, heavy dew, it rivets our attention in thi ; garden. Another thing the Americans ar< going to give us is the sloeveless sweater-j a garment of silk with orthodox collar a.nq extended front and back from an exquisite? girdle, reversing the pattern. Qr it may be that tho sleeveless sweater will bo edged with a cord in which case tho girdle will be of this —many strands united with careful stitching. It is In the blouse that the Americans promise most, as who can hop© to excel them.? The blouse is an American institution, because of the number of women who/ work there—in a land that makes little Ge%: distinction, when it cornea to paying foi

results. This is one of the latest expressions of the shirt-Mouse, which, starting " just like a man's," has by degrees evolved into one of the most charming garments possible to imagine. The blouse is open with an inset that gives it either a square or "U" neck, according to fancy, and the collar is just the beautiful thing you see—a pleated, generous one, with a frill. .' Speaking emphatically of the present, the blouses are elegant creations and as as can be —white Japs, roll collars, inset sleeves With turnback cuffs and hemstitched ; or organdi muslins, roll collar* ditto; or dainty white linens, with roll collar of coloured and cufis to match, and imitation pockets. And as for Bkirts the most popular, perhaps, are striped in crepe, linen, arid twill as —black stripe linens with two inset pockets, finished with flaps ana pearl buttons, eased to waist at\ back, self belt; or tartan crepes, box pleat front anq back, knife pleats at side, folded belt; or white cotton twills with coloured stripes with wide belt in contrast. The etceteras or accessories, call them what we may, count -for much. To wit> neckwear, sashes, and bags. Somehow onft never seems to be quite fully attired if any thing is missing that, being worn, would make the toilet - more attractive. The scarves in evidence are exquisite, as, for example, a band-made Maltese t ßilk one in very rich effects, or a knitted artificial silk one with vari-coloure'd stripes. Handbagt are never so nice as when a departure from the machine-made type that is priced at the value of a rich present. A bag ia best when of the dress, especially just now. When we speak of etceteras we should no 4 forget the veil, which is greatly in evidence, if only to soften the otherwise severe lines which have so long predominated with the rriajority of acceptable hats. You may like the second blouse better than the first. It is in a sense more artistic. I think that this may fairly be called a shirt-blouso with .a handkerchief

collar extension. Again, it is, America, and a further evidence of the skill to which our cousins have attained in this department. The collar may be embroidered slightly as indicated or left perfectly plain, and as for myself my preference would b* for the latter. - Cut this out and paste it in your scrap* book for future reference. To clean a beaver or velour hat dip a wire-haired brush or a very stiff brush in petroia (a substitute for petrol), and well rub all over the hat. This dries very quickly. Afterwards use a thin cane, and beat the hat all over to bring up the pile. This method applies to black or coloured hats. Then, when trimming a velvet hat, _ use a cutting of velvet, placed with pile side to hat. afl any spot where it requires to be held while trimming; this prevents the fingers marking the velvet. Then to clean an osprey. make a lather of Hudson's soap and tepid water. Hold the osprey in the left hand, dip in the suds; draw through the right hand from stem to tip several times, or until the osprey is clean. Shake it well in the soapy water, and afterwards rinse in tepid water tinged with blue. Constantly shake the osprey until dry.