GARDEN & ORCHARD.

Otago Witness, Issue 3382, 8 January 1919, Page 7

GARDEN & ORCHARD.

El D. Tahnock.. v - .- vf ORK FOR THE WEEK. THE GREENHOUSE AND FRAMES. Continue to remove calceolarias and schizanthus to make room for the tuberous begonias, which should now be growing rapidly and showing their first flower buds. As it* is not desirablo to have too many stems to each plant, not more than three should be allowed on those growing in 5m ,and 6in pots, and not more than five on those in larger sizes. Place a neat, strong stake to each stem and tie the shoots out to them, to provide well balanced specimens, to support the soft fleshy stems which are to easily broken, and to so regulate them that each will have an equal supply of light and air. Water them carefully, and give weak liquid manure once 1 a week. The hanging basket varieties of tuberous begonias are well worth growing, for furnishing the roof of the begonia house or for providing a certain amount of colour among ferns. The stems as they develop should be tied down to the baskets; then later on, as they extend, they require to be looped up either to the sides of the baskets or to short stakes. As they require frequent watering and soon exhaust the small amount of soil provided, they require regular feeding once a week, a little stronger than that given to the ordinary tuberous varieties. The young plants of tuberous begonias which were raised from seed in the early spring will now be ready for potting up or planting out in specially prepared frames. We find it an advantage to pot up a few of the stronger plants into 6m pots; they bommence to flower in the autumn, and continue long after the older plants have Commenced to ripen off. The smaller plants are put out in frames on a mild hot-bed, which encourages growth and enables them to develop nice strong tubers before winter sets in. The hot-bed i 3 composed of fresh stable manure and leaves in equal parte; they are mixed and thrown up loosely until fermentation commences, then turned over and left for a few days longer to secure equal distribution of the heat. When placing in the frame, tramp firmly, making a bed about a foot thick, and on this place 3in of nice light soil, same as usually recommended for pricking out seedlings. Place the sashes on the frame and leave it for a week before planting out the begonias. Plant them in rows at least 6m apart, aflowing the same distance between the plants in the rows; paint the glass of the sashes to provide shade, and keep the frames close until the plants take to the new soil, then gradually harden off until they are left open night and day, to encourage, sturdy growth and proper ripening later on. Gloxinias should now be about their best. Water carefully, support some of the drooping flowers with light stakes and pot on seedlings, which will flower later. THE FLO WEE GARDEN. "

The- somewhat broken and unseasonable weather has spoiled some of the roses, and to keep the garden neat and tidy these wiil have to be picked off every day. Continue fc> spray for green fly and mildew, and keep the surface soil of the beds and borders cultivated. The ramblers follow the bush plarits.and maintain the display until these igain commence with their second crop. These will also require constant attention; they are far more susceptible to attacks ot fly. and mildew than the bush and climbing kinds, and when they are allowed to grow into a tangled mass, full of dead leaves and twigs, effective spraying becomes very difficult. Tie in the young shoots, which will be-necessary to replace the old wood later on at pruning time, and out away those which are not required. • The Wichuraiana type of rambler has become very popular, and for a year or two after the introduction of Dorothy Perkins there were new varieties sent out every season; but many of these were too much like well-known varieties already in commerce, and others were worthless. .This Eou'p of ramblers has evergreen shining liage, which makes them suitable for coverK up ugly and unsightly banks and buildings, and for, covering a trellis or rustic exc'h where a prominent screen is desired. American pillar, though not like the other ■wichuraianas, is one of the very_ best, its flowers are a lovely shade of pink, with bright yellow stamens and a white eye. It Is a strong grower, and its bright green, glossy foliage is free from attacks of either frreen fly or mildew.' Other desirable wichuraianas are Alberic Barbier (creamy white and canary yellow), Dorothy Perkins (soft Jight pink), Hiawatha (brilliant scarlet—a Jingle), and Excelsa, which is like a double Hiawatha —a mOst desirable variety. Of ramblers other than wichuraianas the following are the best: —Blush Rambler, Helene. Mrs F. W. Flight, Elaine Jacquier, nnd Allister Stella Gray I have noticed that in dry, warm districts, where all the wichuraianas except American Billar aro covered with mildew ,the other ramblers mentioned are quite clean, which seems to indicate that they are more suitable for these districts.

Budding Roster—The budding of> roses on to stocks of the common dogrose or other strong growing free rooting varieties is always most interesting, and there is nothing to hinder anyone, with a little skill and practice to become reasonably successful. Many growers are quite successful With cuttings, and there is no doubt this is the easiest and most satisfactory method of propagating all tho ramblers, most of the climbers, and a number of the strong-grow-ing bush kinds; but for new varieties and the weak growers budding is the only satisfactory method. - Budding can commence as soon as the bark of the stock separates easily from the wood. This is ..usually when the second growth commences and the combiuna layer |j active, adding new tissue to the stem. January and February.—The success of {he operation depends on the activity of the oyer of combium in the stock and the bud. When the two growing surfaces come into contact, the new tissue which is formed is common to both and tho bud i 3 united to the stock. As the combium layers soon 'dry up, it is most important that the operation be performed both rapidly and neatly. •The bud wood is a shoot which has just flowered, fairly well ripened, with « number q{ really prominent buds in the axils of the leaves. As soon as it is cut jiemove the foliage, leaving only about half an inch of the leaf stalks to serve as handles to the buds later on, and attach a label with the name. Next wrap up in oamp moss or a piece of wet cloth, and place in a piece of wet sorim or a watering can.

If the budwood is too young the bark will not be firm enough to withstand the strain of being pushed down under the bark of the stock, and if too ripe it is difficult to remove the wood. Some bud with the wood in, but as it prevents the whole of the combium layer of the bud from coming into contact with the combium layer of the stock complete union can not take place, and the shoot is liable to break out later on.

It is important to bud low down, and if the stocks have been planted deeply a little of the soil should bo drawn away. With the blade of the budding knife, which should be both sharp and clean, make a cut down the stem about an inch and a-half long and deep enough to reach the wood, then make a cross-cut near the top, forming a T. With the point of the knife lift up the corners of the bark where the two cuts intersect one another, and then with the flat end of the handle of the budding knife press back the bark down both sides of the long cut. Take the budwood and commence to cut into the bark and a little of the wood about half an inch below the bud, cut upwards and complete the cutting about half an inch above' it. Insert the point of the knife between the wood and the bark, and with a sharp jerk remove it, leaving a-shield-shaped piece of bark, a bud, and about half an inch of leafstalk, which was left for a handle. When the budwood is too old, the bud is liable to be pulled out along with the wood, leaving nothing but bark and leafstalk, which would, of course, be quite useless. Hold the bud by the little piece of leafstalk and press it down into the long portion of the T out, between the bark and the wood, and if everything is in proper working order it ought to slip in easily. With a piece of raffia, tie tightly above the bud and wind it tightly round the stock leaving the bud peeping out, and finishing off about an inch below it. Later on, if the little bit of leafstock falls off when touched, we know that the bud has taken, and the ties can be cut to allow the stem to expand. Beginners could easily secure practice by putting several buds on to each stock, and if more than one takes no harm will be done. : In the autumn the stocks are cut over, and in the following spring the bud will grow out, but it is not at all unusual for the bud to grow up and flower the same season that it is put on. THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. Continue to thin, weed, and cultivate the young crops, to earth up and spray potatoes, and to plant greens for autumn and winter. summer pruning of bush fruits..:. The summer pruning of bush fruits is not always necessary, but this season there has been a tremendous development of stem and leaf, especially on young bushes, and a certain amount of thinning and pruning will be necessary to'allow the sun in to ripen the wood. Black currants bear their fruits on the young wood, and after the fruit has been picked the branches should be thinned out. The old wood should be removed first, then thin out the young shoots where they are too thick. Do not remove the suckers; they can be used to replace the old branches from time to time. Gooseberries and red currants can receive the some treatment. The laterals or side shoots are pinohed back to four or five leaves, but the main shoots are not inter .iered with until the winter, when they are shortened back as desired, unless they are likely to be broken by the wind, in which case they can be shortened back to 10 inches. ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS. J., Carisbrook. —Your apple trees are attacked by mildew,- a very common thing this season. Spray with the summer formula of Bordeaux (same as recommended for potatoes) just as the young leaves unfold, and with ammoniated carborate of copper solution later on. During the winter-prun-ing all those twigs which have the characteristic white coating should be cut off J below the diseased portion and burnt. Lime : sulphur is also recommended, and as it can ! be obtained ready for use from the seeds- ' men, it would probably be found more ! suitable if only a few trees are to he j sprayed.