OUR YORKSHIRE LETTER.

Otago Witness, Issue 3352, 12 June 1918, Page 12

OUR YORKSHIRE LETTER.

(Fbow Our Special Coekespondkkt.j BRITISH EMPIRE WOOL PRODUC- • TTON. BRADFORD, April 4. The textile world to-day is somewhat agitated over the production of standard fabrics, which is regarded generally as an important war measure. 1 do not know if the thought has ever struck my readers that the British Government is to-day by far the largest wool broker and merchant in the world. Just for a moment let them consider that it is controlling the destiny of wool to the value of at least £70,000,000 to £Bo,ooo,ooo—by no means a despicable amount, representing a big weight of raw material. If I put it on a reasonable estimate, this represents 120,000,0001 b of British-grown wool, while the clips of Australia and New Zealand are estimated by Messrs Dalgety and Co. (Ltd.) for the year 1916-17 to weigh 741,802,0001 b. Then there is aho the Cape clip, the Imperial Government recently purchasing 136,339 bales; and if we reckon a Cape bale as averaging 3501 b, this gives tho following total of wool which to-day is being controlled by tho British Government. lbs. Domestic 120,000 000 Australia ■ 547,972,000 New Zealand 193,830,000 South Africa 47,788,000 Total .. 909;59o,ooo The figures given for South Africa represent only about 30 per cent, of the annual production of that part of Great Britain's domains, being the quantity recently offered to the Union Government of South Africa on behalf of the Imperial Government. Still, the table shows at once the resources of Great Britain and her colonies. It is most difficult for anyone to form a reliable estimate of what proportion of the above represents combing and clothing descriptions, but I would say roughly that 70 per cent, of the above could be combed, the balance being essentially clothing descriptions. The moet important point of all to emphasise is that a big weight of raw material is to-day placed in the hands of 'the department for the purpose of .producing cloths, and, having commandeered -this weight of wool, the department has the power to decide what shall be done with it. It is too late in tho day to say anything about the department being solely a distributing body, the worst feature of State control being the large number of firms which have been connected with the trade during the past 25-50 years, and which to-day have nothing whatever to clo but simply act the part of warehouse-keepers for the Government. The remuneration arising therefrom is no more than adequate to pay current expenses. An attempt is being made to-day on the part of country wool merchants who are handling the British clip to have their scale of remuneration revised, all alike contending that they have been losing money at the job. Those who are doing the best under tho Government scheme are those who have machinery—topmakers, combers, and spinners handling Government work receiving remuneration which leaves nothing" to be desired. Those with no machinery are to a large extent on the

rocks, the wool-merchanting end of the industry being by far the worst off. PURPOSE OF STANDARD CLOTHS. A't the Board of Control meeting held last week the question of standard cloths was again reviewed by Sir Charles Sykes, Director of Wool Textile Production, in whose hands this business largely lies. We certainly think that the object being aimed at by Sir Charles is a worthy one, although in certain influential quarters it is not regarded favourably. Firms with machinery think that the civilian trade should have been left untouched for spinners and manufacturers, and raw materials should have been forthcoming with which to continue business on pre-war lines. The department thinks otherwise—perhaps rightly so. There Is no disguising the fact that both spinners and manufacturers have been' able 'to do exceedingly well on civilian trade, spinners' margins being particularly good. So many firms have been entirely employed on Government work, where conversion costs have been fixed, that< w T here spinners have been able to offer anything that was free it has naturally commanded big prices. The alpaca trade to-day shows clearly enough what raw materials are worth when they are free. Up to two years ago Arequipa fleece was worth about Is lOjd, whereas last week it was actually sold in Liverpool at 5s lOd in the raw state. Mohair is by far the cheapest article on the market to-day, but is not forthcoming ; the market is cleared, and freight unobtainable &t the Capo.., It does oeem a pity that the Shipping Controller cannot release a little freight to bring homo mohair, when it will go twice as far as greasy Cape wool, and if a few thousand bales could bo brought home it would provide a considerable amount of work, for when used in conjunction with English lustre wools an excellent fabric could be produced?^ Sir Charles Sykes is apparently determined to develop his scheme of standard cloths," and we now see that everything wanted by man in the way of clothing- is going to be made this year in considerably quantities. By Whitsuntide standard suite will bo on the market a't 57s 6d per suit, ready to wear. There are Huddersfield manufacturers who are now making good worsted serges, both black and blue, which will be quite decent for the ordinary business man to wear, while the latest accession to standard fahi-irs is underwear goods. The production of all these lines means an abundance of work for wollen manufacturers throughout this year, and certainly that is very desirable. What the trade fools most is the of good combing wools, and if machinery is not to stand, both merinos and crossbreds will have to be brought from Australia, and New Zealand. But the most important point of all is the provision of cloths at reasonable prices, and this should help to temper the views of both spinners and manufacturers who are catering especially for the civilian trade. TOPS, LAPS, AND WASTES DEARER, Last Monday a new schedule of prices came into operation for combing wool, tops, laps, and wastes, the three former advancing 3d per lb and the latter about 2d. This all helps to emphasise the importance and value as manufacturing raw materials of the by-products of the trade.

The entire textile industry is to-day BO thoroughly organised that no material iz lost, even the sweepings from under the looms, commonly known as "fly," being utilised in the production of the lower classes of fabrics. If I had space to give a full list of wastes which are known in the trade and _ the fixed prices it would amaze the outsider, the waste list containing no fewer thaa 300 classes. All the laps and wastes have been requisitioned by the department, and nothing can |jow be elisposed of without the consent of the officials in charge. v No export is allowed even. to our own overseas dominions. No class of article can be regarded as free, the department now prohibiting the free sale of even British off sorts, which comprise locks, daggings, and the real "muck" arising out of the handling of domestic fleeces. Of course, all the off sorts, both British and colonial, are to-day being used ~h\ the production of standard fabrics, and it" is remarkable when they have been scoured and cleaned what excellent fabrics can be produced from them. We are living in times when the whole industry is passing through an evolutionary process, rnd the trade is long removed from the condtions obtaining in pre-war days, many being of the opinion that the industry will bo unable to throw off the present measure of State control for at least- very many months after the termination of hostilities.