IN FASHION'S REALM.

Otago Witness, Issue 3338, 6 March 1918, Page 51

IN FASHION'S REALM.

WEEKLY • UP-TO-DATE DRESS NOTES

By Mabgtjebitb. A country that produces ever so much more wool than its people could ever use should, as regards woollens, Be able to clothe itself. We talk of the scarcity of woollens and the fearful prices; but I venture to say that if a man from Mars were to coma down, and he were asked the question, he would say that no country having a surplus of the raw material in anything' should ever be short of what comes from it.

In reading my former budget I paused at that reference to collars. I explained myself well enough for myself and perhaps a few others, but perhaps too hazily for all. Here, then, are the two specially referred to —the cape collar with, in the one

case, the step provided by 'the rcvers, and, in the other, by the capo itself. These capo collars are more- than ordinarily pretty. They are, in fact, beautiful. In addition, they are snug, and in cases lend themselves to embroidered effects. The

back may bo straight across, curved, or in two scallops—anything that good taste suggests. There aro plenty of materials left over from summer with a fair life in front of them—it all depends on how they are utilised. And whero they can be it is the best of economy to take advantage of th© mark-down in prices, as, from all accounts, it will be some considerable 'time before we get as much again. In any case it is advantageous, if you can keep them, to buy a few selections for use on the return of the same season. After all, it is styles that change, not materials, or, at least, not to such an extent as will make them oui of date. What is there to prevent anyono getting a couple of dress lengths and trimmings, packing them up, and putting them away? Then, when spring comes round again, it will be an easy thing to get them made up. From what I have been ablo to gather it is unlikely that the same prices will prevail 12 months hence. . - ':_ But, speaking to the season, nothirig_ is more becoming than .a serge, and beige machine stitching will trim many a street frock of this of navy blue. Autumn and 1 the serge frock go together, and for the young are the natural complements. Wo shall have- many effects in plaids—such suggestive of the .tartan. Soft box-yleats in a plaid dress help, to make the pattern elusive, and give the popular long lines which are bo becoming to all ages. It will be a groat velvet and velveteen season, and incidentally georgette crepe and velvet combine forces with splendid results in reception frocks. When it comes to coats, effects will be straight, belts a, feature, collars of the type just illustrated a pronounced one, pockets in one form and another a. necessary adjunct, and buttons a pronounced scheme in ornamentation. We shall-see exquisite coats, most oi them long, and some, indeed, the whole dress, in which case, of course, they will bo coat dresses. Here is an autumn girl fully equipped, and also a" winter girl. But my object in making the selection is to emphasise the combination of two materials, and the effect

of a Greek Hne where they unite. I spoke of this before, how the light material provided an apron in front, and the dark an excuse for a richly-embroidered design at the sides. The belt will have something in keeping, and also, perhaps, .s the collar. The design is pretty, and all the ideas in it good. And since as much Phoula be made of a full Gguie as possible, there is one of the new hats, which, be it observed, also combines the shades, and in that way harmonises. It appears that American women have taken to wearing the national colours in one form and another on their sleeves, and even hats. Two designs appealed to me—the shield over a half wreath on an oval, and within a circle of stairs The Americans are rather given to this kind of thing at any time. I am rather partial to the displaying of the national colours m war time—that is, wearing them Our sex is privileged —an embroidered front, a hat ornament, or a button. I know of no flag the equal of the Union Jack for designing. Familiarity may cause us to esteem it ordinary; but the way those three crosses arc monogrammed is most masterly. If ever you are inclined to work a Union Jack take my advice and get a flag book, otherwise, luck being against you, yovi may have it upside down. These double belts are not new. All the same, they will be much seen in autumn and winter. The design was of a dress, but not being able to give two, I decided

on the section. It was the way the pocket is united that won my admiration. The pocket is continuous, with a panelled side, pinched in, as you will readily see, at the

proper depth. It will be charming in the case of a velveteen. It is far easier to persuade people to dress well for outside than in the house. And yet house-dressing is very, important, as it helps to make for happiness. If I do not give._house dresses it is because they are so plain. They do not give an artist a chance. I shall therefore endeavour to describe two. First _of all, with one tho dress as regards the lines is absolutely plain. It buttons across invisibly, but ao much bo as to provide a «ross-over on the bodico part with a wide, deep collar. Then the belt of self is broken by a width equal to a panel, this being in front, and the skies aro gathered into the belt in the usual form.' The are long, with a button on over cuff, the buttons being ornamental, and there are two pockets. The other is equally plain a 3 regards contour, with a contrasting collar, belt, and elbowcuffs, but the bodice fronts have a band which, widening, comes down boomerang fashion, and, turning, proyjdes slipper !)Ockets. . Dresses of this kind cost very ittle as to material and are easily made up. Needles "to say, they should always be of a, washing material, as, when I say house dress, I do not mean one to loungo about in, but one to work in, save as regards what is really destructive. - - There are, of course, more elaborate house dresses, and such in cases are good enough for the street,, anyhow in the morning. They are best when tho blouse part is of the shirt blouse variety, though not the plain thing of other days. The button up in front with the-trim V collar always oomrnends itself, otherwise plain, or with pleated sides from a shoulder _ yoke. The ekirt will havo straight lines with a double panel front —one with centre seam, and there will always be pockets, flat ones with an. envelope flap. The house wardrobe, if it cart bo managed, will include a bathrobe, otherwise a dressing gown. Anyone ought to be able to make this garment herself from one of tho innumerable patterns. • A dressing gown is one of the becoming as well as comfortable garments if _ properly made. Then who would be without a dressing jacket, and so forth to tho last % r jsible article that makes for smartness, appearance, and happiness all together. This is another of the "collars" I referred to, though it is really a cape with a

collar effect. I tried to describe it; but in vain, on account of that cross-over piece for tho buttoning. It is very smartly designed, and_ is essentially young-looking. I picture it in association with both frocks and coats. It will_ be one of the best designs for tho coming season. I annex this from another: "A new stylo, of'dress, combining the chemise frock and the jumper, proves most becoming to elder women. For indoor wear nothing would look more charming than a soft silk or crepe do chine, with a rather full underdress, and decorated with a side-draped tunio bodice, made of figured crepe de chine of tho flame tone as tho rest of the dres3. A largo sailor collar of tho plain fabrio is well stitched, and is cut so that it may bo easilv buttoned high to the neck or loft open. Another matron's design is in blaok soft grenadine; flatly set pleats running from the lino of the bust to a little ibolow the waist of a tunic, gives the doubleekirt effect. The upper part of the bodice is made of black ninon, and shows a crossover effect. There are quite a number of fashions in these bodices, one and all being most becoming to women of mature years. Black is always the favourite colour, showing a dainty ivpry-toned net collar and vest, with the addition of softly-turned-back net cuffs.

Stud fasteners are best for the placket hole; but, if hooks are used, instead of sewing the hooks beneath the upper side, reverse it so that the bill comes next tho turn-in edge of the placket, and eew on in tho usual position. This will prevent the hook unfastening.