IN FASHION'S REALM.

Otago Witness, Issue 3337, 27 February 1918, Page 51

IN FASHION'S REALM.

WEEKLY UP-TO-DATE DRESS NOTES By Mahguebitb. If we follow "my loader" of Paris we shall dress well, and velvet and all that relates to it will be our supreme selection. The designs are exquisite —faultless, indeed. For once a season has come minus freaks for the introduction. Glancing at the designs available at this moment I cannot see one to cavil at. The features are simply very large collars, double and single belts, conveying the idea of depth, very elegant sleeves, and the summer pocket continued in a modified form. In addition there are the long panel pleats, and panier-like bunchings,* the supreme for day dresses and the latter for evening. The collar is a very pronounced feature, becoming in cases a veritable cape, and incidentally I may remark that when the hour strikes for furs there will be large cross-over collars in such, worn in such a way as to have a falling-off effect —very pretty, but difficult to explain a picture, which, of course, always explains itself. I am going to start this time as regards illustrations with an evening dress, showing this to a fair length, and indicating the balance in the little panel. Though a girl's dress, it is easily enough adapted for her seniors. The featuro is that frilled side, which, being of a 'transparent material, veils and softens the side. And it comes down to some inches above the hem of the

skirt, and that is why I include the panel. Now, this frill will be an important adornment with many such frocks, and also of a few day dresses. - It is not a new idea, but a carry-on—a good thing given a new lease of life. And later on, if I illustrate a mantle for evening wear, I shall show you what it can be made to do in that relation. / But touching this evening frock for a girl in the middle teens. The best material will be silk crepe, or, if that is not desired, then skirt and tunic of crepe de chine, satin jumper, and sleeves of silk crex>e. The nicest colours for a young girl's evening dress are" always the pale shades of blue, pink, and canary. This will be found a very economical dress if made at home, for ■ 'the excellent reason that it requires so little trimming. The" edges of the body and sleeve will be finished with picot edging, and for an embellishment there may be a spray of flowers against the cross-over from the V 'to waist. For a choice selection palo grey chiffon with shoulder _ knots, with ends of pale green corded ribbon, would be ideal. Speaking of colours for evening frocks, such selections should always be made in artificial ligiit. Colours that are, pretty by daylight are sometimes harsh by night, and blues, of course, always have a tendency to appear green and even vice versa. Now, let me indulge in a transformation scene for an evening dress for the young lady's older sister. r ihe crossed little bodice vanishes, giving way to a long "one in two sections, upper one shoulder to bust-line with sleeves 'to elbow, square neck, and perhaps a line of fur like a brace; lower section a different material and figured, and cavried down the hip-line, so that when gathered at waist by a cord with flower at side there is as much of this section above as 'there is below this division. Then the gossamer-like material employed for the upper section becomes that of the skirt, and it is this that induced me to make the mention. Thus back to 'the illustration, and for the senior dross lower the frill to the hip-lino, and then, presto! there is a veiling tunic, ending at about a hand's depth from 'the hem of the skirt and bordered, with the fur employed on the bodice. But, alas! how hard it is to explain oneself in prose, when it is sometimes liko an architect trying to explain his design for a new cottage without the plan. Having emphasised the idea, we shall have a canary-coloured chiffon for the upper body, cut in one with the sleeve, and then for the skirt 'tunic with frill, and a suitable figured contrasting material for the lower body, and gold cord, with flower of silk as a balanco for the fur. This, however, is occupying niore space for the frivolous than I expected. And so as abruptly as possible to this exquisito

design for utility wear, autumn, and then, if desired, winter. I have already referred to the crusador apron 'effects, and this is one, though shortened. The design speaks for itself, as designs always do. EYont and back mee'fc ynder the arms and button, and the front is slit for a pretty belt suggestion in harmony with the border. The sleeve is equally taking; and as for the skirfc % it is just thai pleated variety that

is calculated to set off the rest. I do not think you could desire a more charming design. - Every autumn wardrobe should contain at least one of the new one-piece frocks of serge or- gaberdine; every coa'fc and skirt costume where the ekirt is of velvet or velveteen and the ekirt of serge, i or if 'the coat is an additional, the frock of this, will be in order; and every coat, and especially exery coat of the overcoat type, will proclaim its seasonableness in its fine collar and the size of its buttons. And fur will be employed in every direction, though sometimes only 'a little for the embellishment. Then every ,coa't of the type shown in the full figure may, if long enough, feature embroidery, though hot if it 13 adorned otherwise. _ For example, transform that belt section \hi a piece of the same material and embroider that, and! then have the aprons much longef and embroider them, and for a preference with very narrow braid, or with such and a wider one, going in for a Chinese design, which is as like the twisting grains in a knotty piece of wood as anything else I can think of. This is one of the fashionable tunic skirts, the tunic a side draping so cleverly dieposed as really to be the decoration part of the skir't itself. Yet it need not be of the same material, and .that is what I have

tried to indicate by showing the skirt with a stripe. This would be a daring idea, but it is quite possible, and, being related to the ,blouee and belt, would strike a note of originality. _ Many of the most attractive coats will have detachable collars. I said this before, but perhaps I did „-not make myself sufficiently clear. The collar will be quite cape-like, buttoning across in front, covering tho shoulders, and falling square behind like a coachman's. The same effect at back will be in association with a collar that is of the coat —ordinary revers, but the top from the _ step carried over the shoulder and dropping like a cape. Again, a very pretty cape related to the collar will have no step at all, but come down over the revers in coachman-like fashion. Going away from this there will be collar capes to. wear in conjunction with - coats that permit of it, and frocks, of course—a' cape with a collar buttoning once well clown by tho front, the buttonhole one being shaped to go over -the other, and these two fronts coming to points as low as the waist-lino. I despair of being able to describe these collars without pictures. I can only excite your curiosity and promise to illustrate the more- attractive ones later. I have before me as I write a group of French designs, some of which are worth a no bice. The first is 4 dress which but for ono .feature, and that a remarkable one, would not have much attention. Nevertheless, it would be pretty enough—a plain one, rounded neck contour sleeve, belt, and slightly-curved skirt. Tho feature is t"he detachable side draperies something after the style of the ekirt just illustrated, but in one loop-like curve, and so sweeping like a closed wing 'to nearly the hem. They have been calling them in Paris coquilles. A very charming chemisette fra.ned by side fronts, with a narrow rolling collar over a tunic composed of panels over the crepe, and these panels are drawn

up above a deep belt and bow-looped in the prettiest fashion imaginable. And as the wearer raises her arm the crepe sleeve is seen to be as deep as from shoulder to waist, bishoping closely into a long, close cuff. Another striking design is a coat frock—m fact, it is all coat —one that as regards contour is ordinary, but with a military-like belt, with a second belt section below it in front, rever3 and an immense collar with cape, ordinary sleeves, but again with immenso cufl's. But it is the sides of the coat that attract. There is a large patch over-pieoe with a pocket richly embroidered over a panel of pleats to foot. Picture tha coat in beige gaberdine, and the upper collar, cuffs, and pocke't patches in fur. Now, either for a coat that is all the costume, or one that is nearly so, this is one of the most (harming designs. It will explain at least one of the capo collars already mentioned; albeit in this case it is a true cape through the collar itself being

distinct And over it. To save making too long a drawing I have put the pocket in a panel and insetted this. All you need do is imagin-3 it cut out, and patch on the other to continue the lines. As said before, the summer pocket has been carried forward, and will* be, but in a modified and less negligent form. It is the slipper pocket wo shall see most, and in the majority of instances it will be eo skilfully merged with tho coat as not to suggest the_ application by more than the, mere stitching. These pockets seem very appropriate with the Chinese bell sleeve that is united to a close wristlet-like cuff. The wearer sticks her hand in, the cuff becomes more or less enveloped, and the eleeve, or the outline of it, carries on to the pocket outline in a most charming way as regards tho silhouette. pocket lends itself to so many charming adornments Mn connection. In this I refer to the lines above the belt—the lines of the panelled front, which may be made to sweep clean down to the pocket and then curve with the opening. ,The effect is always very graceful.