GARDENING NOTES.

Otago Witness, Issue 3336, 20 February 1918, Page 6

GARDENING NOTES.

By D. Tannock. WORK FOR THE WEEK. THE GEEENHOTJSE. Continue to pot on cinerarias and Chinese primulas into their flowering pots as they become sufficiently far advanced, and pot up greenhouse calceolarias from the boxes into four inch pots. Tuberous begonias should now be making, the greenhouse gay. Pick off all the 6ide buds which appear on the double varieties, and encourage them to grow by giving an application of liquid manure once a week. There are now such a variety in tuberous begonias that they can easily fill a house by themselves. The hanging basket varieties can be suspended from the roof or grown in pots for the front of the stage. The doubles should be elevated on pots so that they can be seen to advantage without too 'much staking and tying, and there are singles with smooth-edged flowers, frilled singles, and crested varieties, all well worth growing inside. Chrysanthemums intended for big blooms are now beginning to develop their crown buds, and these can be taken. Examine the plants regularly for caterpillars,_ which eat out the young buds and do considerable damage. (Spraying with arsenate of lead will help to destroy them. The soil in the pots should now be full of roots, and an application of weak liquid manure can be given once a week at first, then increased to twice a week, and so on until they get a little with every watering. THE FLOWEE GARDEN. Seedling plants of sweet williams can now be planted out in their flowering positions, but if these are not yet available they can be lined out in a well manured piece _of "■round in nursery rows, allowing nino inches between the plants in the rows and a foot between the rows. Biennial stocks such as East Lothian and Brompton kinds can now be planted out to flower next spring and early summer. They do not require" too rich ground, and it must be well drained, otherwise the plants will rot off during the winter. A warm, dry, sandy, or gravelly soil is the most suitable. Wallflower seedlings can also be planted out in their flowering positions, and the blanks in those lined out in the nursery filled up. Continue to plant out spring flowering bulbs as positions become available, and collect seeds of ncmesia before . the seed vessels burst and the winds scatter them. . . , ~ •, . Mark all desirable of antirrhinums and dianthus from which it is intended to collect seeds. Dahlias are now beginning to bloom, and they should help to keep 'the garden gay until frost comes. They should be tied up regularly, the stems thinned out a -bit and somo disbudding done to got exhibition blooms. The collarette varieties (which are after all only singles with a number of malformed disc florets, usually of a colour which is quite distinct from the ray florets) hold their flowers well up abovo the foliage on strong stalks, and they are useful for both houso and garden decoration. They como fairly well from seed but the named varieties are the most ■l= ruble. Dahlias arc- greedy plants; they require plenty of water, and an application of liquid manuro onco a week is appreciated by them. Those of the preony flowered section are very useful for filling largo beds or for the mixed or herbaceous border. They produce their large flowers in nbundanco, but are not much iiso for cutting. They don't last very long.

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. According to the latest ideas of of potato culture, tho preparation of next season's sets should commence now. It is clearly established that the best crops of curly potatoes are grown from immature sets — that is, those dug before tho shows have ripened off. As the potato disease settled tho matter for many growers by cutting down tho tops about tho middle of last month, all they have to do is to dig up tho crop now, and, as the digging proceeds, throw on ono side all the medium-sized tubers from plants which have a goodly number of nico ones. Those which produce a lot of little ones and a few largo coarse ones, and thoso which produco only a few of exceptional size; should bo avoided. Where potatoes are not cut down by the disease, those intended for next year's sets should bo dug as soon as tho skin of the tubers is fairly firm, and will not rub off easily with tho hand. As a rule, potatoes, at least tho early and second early kinds, have reached their maximum growth by the end of January, and if they are left 'in the ground until the end of February, though still fairly green, they do not add much to the crop, but if we get a spell of warm, moist weather, they are liable to break into a second growth, and the tubers arc spoiled as food, sinco they becomo brown or streaky inside. If possible, dig during dry weather and leave all the tubers on tho surface to dry for a few hours. They can then bo collected; thoso thrown aside for sets will bo left for a day or two to green and harden the skin; the very small ones can be put in sacks and boiled up for feeding hens and pigs, and the largo ones can be stored in sacks or spread out in a dark cellar. Where there is a large quantity to store away they are better pitted in a dry part of tho garden. Pack them up in a pointed heap and cover with two inches of straw, carefully drawn so that it will throw off the water like thatch; dig a trench round tho base of the pit and use the soil to cover the straw, about from four to six inches thick. The soil will keep tho potatoes cool, keep out all frost, and the trench will ensure good drainage and keep tho pit dry. To prevent the tubers from heating, air is essential, and ventilation can bo provided either by twisting a wisp of straw and fixing it_ in the ridge or top of the pit or by putting in a short drain pipe. It will be necessary to put a slate or flat stone over the mouth of the drain pipe during wet weather. After tho sets havo been properly greened they can be collected and stored on end in the potato boxes ready to sprout the following spring As tho buds are not very prominent, it is often easier to find tho base of tho tuber than tho apex. There is usuallv somo indication of tho little stalk by which the tuber was attached to tho parent plant, and they can be stood on this end. The spores of the disease hang about the tubers until the following season, but by exposing them to light, air, and weather the lurking spores are washed off or they are destroyed by the sun and fresh air, or they are unable to penetrate the tough.skin of the sets. It is still possible to plant cabbage and broccoli, but too late for brussels sprouts, and almost too late for leeks. Though brussels sprouts are much esteemed during the winter and early spring they are not extensively grown, and niost people fail by planting them too late. They require a long season of steady growth and should not be hurried cither by giving them liberal supplies of liquid manure or planting them in loose soil. The earliest seeds should be sown in boxes in August,, and afterwards, when they are large enough, they can be pricked out on a warm sheltered bordier at a distance of from three to four inches apart. A second sowing can be made in the open in September and, as these are left in the seedbed until they are large enough to plant out, the seeds should be sown thinly. Soil for brussels sprouts need not be heavily manured, and it should not be too loose for a firm dwarf growth which will stand tho winter is desirable. Plant out not later than tho cnd # of November, at a distance of two feet six inches between the rows and two feet between the plants in tho rows. As they grow gradually, earth thorn up to support the plants and give plenty of water during dry weather, but do not give liquid manure, if growth is satisfactory. They are very liable to bo attacked by aphis in the autumn, but the older leaves, which are th<s most susceptible, can be pulled off and the plants sprayed with hot soapy water. During moist "weather tho aphis is not so troublesome, and it is killed off by tho first winter's frost. Club-root does not usually attack sprouts, though, like all members of the cabbage family, they are liable to bo spoiled by it. It is my that plants are often attacked by club-root in the seedbeds, and this may explain its appearance in ground which has not grown crops of brassicas for some years, and which is well drained and limed.

ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS. "J.A.H," Waimate. —The flowers of seedling abutilon enclosed are quite satisfactory and you have a desirable variety. Abutilons are not nearly as common as they ought to be. They are quite hardy and grow into largo bushes which flower freely in the autumn with us, but in districts where there is more frost they might require to be grown on a wall. They are also quite satisfactory when grown in pots for the greenhouse or when trained on the roof as a climber. I would not cut up a rex begonia now, they are almost epiphytes, and can thrive with very little soil, provided thev get plenty of water. Next spring when growth commences, you can cut up you'- plant and make two or more of it. "Apricot."—The portion of fruit postea was' converted into pulp and the grub dead. I would recommend you to spray your tree with arsenate of lead at the rate of Hlb to 50 callous of water. Give one spraying before "the flower buds open and another after the petals drop.

GARDEN COMPETITIONS.

The" judges have now completed their admdication on competition B (gardens not larger than a quarter-acre and outside labour limited), and competition E (front garden not deeper than 12 feet). The following are the points gained in competition B by the first 10 gardens:— Mrs Woodhouse, 64; Mr Geo. Chance, 64; Mr T. J. Grant, 63; Mr H. A. Salmon, 62- Mr J. Permin, 58; Miss Israel; 54; Mr Jas S. Faulkner, 52; Mr H. Halhday, 51; Mrs T. Hall. 50. . In competition E. the prizes have been awarded as follow:—Misses Mirams, _ 24 points, 1; Mrs A. M'Naughton, 23 points, 2.

Mr Geo. Chance, Dunottar, having gained tho highest aggregate points (130) in competition A (adjudicated last October) and B, is tho winner of the champion cup, tho present holder of which is Mr 11. Salmon. As more, than one cup cannot bo held by a competitor, Mi's Woodhouse, who ties for first place with Mr Chanco in competition B, wins the cup presented by the Horticultural Society. Mrs L. Wilson wins tho Buttorworth Cup, having sained highest points in competition.

FLOWER SHOWS.

WAIKOUAITI PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH. The eighth annual show in connection with Waikouaiti Presbyterian Church was held under the most favourable weather conditions. Thcro was a splendid collection of exhibits in all sections. Cut flowers werevery abundant, and the quality all that could be wished. Roses, sweet peas, and dahlias were leading varieties, besides some very fine phloxes, verbenas, antirrhinums, and gladioli. A very fine collection _of flowering begonias was sent for exhibition by Mr George. Jones, of Oamaru, but arrived too late to be staged. In fruit the general exhibits were good. The vegetable sections were the strongest feature of the show, onions, carrots, parsnips, and peas, each bringing forward from«six to 10 entries. In tho decorative section the high standard of excellence of former shows was well maintained. Tho juvenile sections showed a marked improvement both in pot plants and vegetables. The judging was most efficiently done in the baking sections by Mrs Walker, of Palmerston, and in all the others by Mr Moncrief, of Dunediu. The following are the principal prize takers:— Plants in pots—Mesdames J. A. Townsend, Bates, and Podor. Cut flowers—Dr M'Killop. Mrs W. Maxwell, Miss M'Gillivray, Miss Smith, and Mrs J. Brown. Fruit—W. Maxwell, Stuart Prcscott, and M. Jamieson. Vegetables—M. Jamieson, J. A. Townsend, W. Quill, A. J. Jackson, W. Brown, and Mrs Fodor. Decorative Floral—Miss F. Smith, Mrs M. Jamieson, Mrs A. Prescott, and Miss A. Valentine. Juveniles (plants in pots and cut flowers) —L. Townsend, Mi Williamson, P. Williamson. F. Townsend. Table vegetables—Gordon Brown and Frank Townsend. Decorative and floral work —Dorothy Francis. Baking—Kenzie Carson, Mrs Townsend, f Miss F. Fry, Miss Dempster, and Mrs Sandford. In the reports concerning tho fruit crops supplied by Government officials for January it ie stated with" regard to Canterbury and the West Coast that fungoid diseases are rather prevalent. Walnuts are beginning to blight badly. In Christchurch and suburbs, owing to the wet season, black spot is very prevalent. In South Canterbury the middle of the month witnessed the first appearance of phyto-phthoi-a infestans, which quickly spread, - and caused much damage to late crops. _ In Otago black spot was reported to be fairlybad amongst apples, having mada its firsft appearance this season in. the Roxburgh and Coal Creek districts.