IN FASHION'S REALM.

Otago Witness, Issue 3334, 6 February 1918, Page 50

IN FASHION'S REALM.

WEEKLY UP-TO-DATE DRESS NOTES By Marguerite. , The damask frock has come into its own at last, and is identified with what's what with a coloured border, this constituting tho hem of the :-kirt. It causes us to view the tablecloth with tenewed interest, to admire the patterns in various scrolls, and, if we vie young i-nough not to care much, about household economy, to wonder if mother could bo>induced to pari with the old one. Of course, gingham is quite ordinary—checked gingham, for instance, being allied to white handkerchief linen. Here's where the combination of 'two materials is such a help—it . ; s nearly always a second selection to trim in some form and make the dress true to its name. Catalogues to hand x revcal tho usual array of exquisite styles. A few are English, two or throe French, and the rest American. We are approaching a rather attractive autumn and a fascinating winter. Whatever the material tho_ designs will bo faultless The military will again be ex-' ploitcd, but in a new way. There will be a revival of the mediaeval. Instead of playing pranks with suggestions from current uniforms, an attempt will be made to express tho picturesque styles of the past. Tho Far East has already been done to death; tho Near East is going 'to be given a turn this time—styles that put us in mind of the military-religious ages when Palestine was the field and so forth in association. This will entail a return to straightish lines; or, anyhow, the abandoning of the flare. The effects will be hanging, clinging, and yet fairly full. It is something to be able to say that as one goes through the catalogues of coming modes one is lost in admiration. In this frame of mind I got out my pencil and wondered, and the wondering was this: Should I give .another summer set, or indulge in the anticipation? I decided on the latter, and so selected four features from the least extreme, and this is the first. I have drawn, this sketch with care, as the subject calks for it. The whole thing in the section of the costume dealt with is in the collar. Tho narrow one, of course, is of linen, or, at least, in contrast, overlaps the dress collar above and loses itself in it below. But observe how " the dress collar itself is crossed, how it is carried .

over the "belt," and how it is resolved into the skirt. A more artistic design of its kind it would be impossible to imagine, and so I commend it as a note for future reference. The sleeve, of course, is an ordinary one—one of those bells that are cut into a close wrist section. Needless to say, braid is the adornment and half the battle in bringing out the design. How much is employed on the skirt must be left to your imagination. Three or four rows on the flounce line would be advisable and a little more. There would be pockets—crescents conforming to the line of the collar extension and marked with braid. Coming modes will feature swathed bodices. Refer back to the first design for the idea-, the crossed fronts resolving themselves on occasions into a belt section—■ a pretty idea which I shall illustrate later. Also crusader-like coats by the score as regards expression, front and back with points for a closing underneath the arms, as though thrown oyer the shoulders and fastened in that way, sleeves, of course, coming through and different. And long coats with many new expressions of -the pocket that_ is modish now, more particularly the slipper. _ The coming modes' will make a great point of the sleeve, the bell taking first rank, both in the style of the first picture, and free. They will show an extraordinary range of collars, in which e:"ze or no size at all will bo the most distinguished choice. They will, 'too, give us the pleated skirt in all its beauty, the skirt with the panel front and flounces, the gathered skirt from a shaped yoke, but low, the undulating edged tunic," and the panier-like draping. Coming modes- will appeal to us because of their beauty, combined with what I rnay call common sense. They will emphasise the apron-like tunic as _ never before-; hence this essentially plain expression of it as a kind of forerunner. It serves the -purpose, to illus-

trato as much, to show one of the now sleeves, and, above all, to givo a fair fdea of the silhouette. It so happens that some of tho most charming designs are the hardest to give any striking effect in a picture. This is because of 'their purity

of line ; otherwise their lack of ornamentation. This essentially well-cut dress owes little to ornamentation—a gathering at waist to button, motifs for the apron, and braid for collar, the tunic lengths and the sleeves, and, if desired, the waist to make the line more pronounced. A glance at the shop windows discloses a wonderful array of bargain hats, ready-to-wears, such as Java straws of fine quality in smart shapes trimmed with coloured corded ribbon; tagels, with the new scout crown having a striped effect, and trimmed with straw ornaments; and other straws coarse to fine, natural and coloured, in a host of artistic shapes, and all 'trimmed by the master hand.' A turn and there are the blouses —lawn, Japanese Bilk, muslin, voile, etc., two for a note; an organdi muslin with collar and vest embroidered in nattier, hemstitched down . front; and ' a jumper of white Oxford shirting with soft check effect, sailor collar, turn-back cuffs, and side pocket. . Another turn and there are the coats —crash dustcoa'ts, silk sports coats of the kind I have been illustrating so profusely over the last few weeks. And yet another turn and skirts—gaberdines and coating serges, Sicilians, voiles, piques, drills, and linens. Is it necessary to describe 'them? I think not. And a final turn and the costumes, but coats and skirts for the chief, poplins, assams, and so forth, and -. again expressed, as you know. Materials are different, the mention in this case being to re-emphasise them at jus't that time tvvhen the reminder is useful—wash fabrics which included striped crepes, white ground, check zephyrs, poplins in rich shades and mixtures, Grafton voiles with floral effects, striped piques, ever a commendable choice for skirts, and so on. At a bound 'to the silks, for the advice is to make the most of your opportunities—white Japanese, tussores and ranshans, assams, kabe crepes (a beautiful thing for blouse wear, or frocking), georgettes in all the good tones, crepe de chines in rivalry, and French ditto, which are more than beautiful.' Then duchesse silks in pretty shades, and in blacks, pailettes, mousselines, and taffetas that win the heart first glance. And why have I run over this? Because it is the day of the deluge—bargains, and, believe me,- very real ones. Again the forward note, and this time collars. I suspect the designer of this had I the inspiration from the soldier's great- i

coat, tlic one with the cape. Be that as it may, it is a very artistic piece of work, and is here for that reason. It is these little features that make for smartness. By not dressing as well as possible we are simply punishing 'the Mother Country and her Allies, and we are also punishing our own. They need the materials, and if we try to put them out of business, then, when the war is over, they will need less. We should try to do some "thinking."

Some of those who preach, this and that have negbcted this"study, xan should read some of the articles on "domestic .economy " published the other side of the world. At the stark everyone advocated '• doing without," but since" then the wise have got to work", and they have shown the mischief of arresting business. The great guide for everything is common sense. We must dress., and so to the fourth glance towards the horizon. I have spoken of the hip-frilj before. Coming modes will emphasise this, and this will be one of the favourite expressions. Observe when the trill is in this position the length of the tunic-like side is practically that of the skirt; but when it is carried out at the

waist, when, of course, this is a mere line—well, it ends at about i the flounce-depth. These frills are very pretty, and will be worn greatly. Incidentally, the crossed-belt will be a favourite for months.