GARDENING NOTES.

Otago Witness, Issue 3332, 23 January 1918, Page 8

GARDENING NOTES.

By. D. Tannock

WORK FOR THE WEEK THE GREENHOUSE.

The last of the geraniums and pelargoniums, which have been keeping up the display until tho tuberous begonias come on, can now bo placed outside in full sunshine to ripen off the wood. The shoots of those put out some time ago will now be firm enough to make cutting's. If a large number of cuttings are required they are better put into boxes. If there arc only enough to provide pot plants, sixinch pots will do: Make up a soil mixture of two-parts loam, one-part leafmould. and one part sand. Put rough material in the bottoms of the pots or boxes to provide drainage, make the soil firm, and on top spread a good layer of_ clean sand. Cut tho plants back to within an inch of the old wood, or, in the case of young plants, to six inches from the pot will do. Out the stems into pieces about three or fo«r inches long, cut the stem across,_ just below a node, and put them about an inch and ahalf in tho soil, making them very firm. Water and place in a sunny position until they root. The out-back plants can bo sprayed regularly to encourage them to break into fresh growth. Pot up Primula malacoides, Primula obconica, and Primula Kewensis into their flowering pots. They require a_ longer season to grow than Primula sinensis. _ Stake out the begonias as they require it, and give liquid manure once a week to those which are well established in their pots. THE FLOWER GARDEN. Continue to weed, and on warm, sunny days souffle-hoe the beds and' borders; keep the lawns mown and rolled, and the verges neatly out. Owing to the cool and moist weather we have experienced during the past month tho ramblers have lasted longer and the colours have been better then usual. As they pass out of flower out away the dead blossom, and later on, where it is' possible to cover the fence or handrail with new growth, the old stems can be cut away altogether. Roses are very free from blights this year, but wherever mildew _ appeal's—and there are always some varieties which are readily attacked—spray with a suitable fungicide. Stake out perennial asters,, putting a stake to each stem; tie and thin dahlias, and pick the seedpods off sweet peas. Delphiniums can now be cut back to the top of the foliage and allowed to ripen off. This seems a more reasonable method than outting the stems right down to the ground, as recommended by some. When cut right down, the plants are sent into growth again at once, and autumn spikes are provided, but, as these late stems seldom get time to ripen off, the crown must be weakened and less satisfactory results bo obtained tho following season. Wallflowers intended for spring flowering will now bo ready to plant out in the nursery rows. Select a dull or rainy day, and plant in rows about nine inches apart, allowing ot least six inches between the plants in the rows; water well and sprayon warm, sunny days until the plants take to'their new position. All narcissi an'd tulip bulbs whioh it is intended to lift should bo got up as soon as possible. Spread them out In boxes and

put in a cool dry place until they are sorted and cleaned. THE VEGETABLE HARDEN. Early planted potatoes are now showing signs of ripen inp; off, and they have reached their maximum production. The akin is firm, and the tuber dry and floxiry. They will keep quite well if dug now. Tin's has the further advantage in a small garden in that it provides a pieoo of ground in which we can plant autumn cauliflower, winter cabbage, and broccoli for the spring and winter greena After the potatoes have been dug the ground should be dug and a dressing of lime and bone meal or superphosphate worked in the surface before planting. If it is very dry and loose —a complaint not very general this season —it can be tramped to make it firm. To have a firm growth which will stand the winter weather it is not advisable to have your soil either too rich or too loose. Water the plants in the seedbed well the day before they are to be transplanted; draw drills about 6in deep and 2ft apart, and in these put out the plants at 2ft. apart in the rows; plant firmly and water. If the weather is very warm and dry, a slight protection with pieces of manuka scrub or green branches will be an advantage. The varieties of cauliflower to plant are Veitcho's Autumn Giant and Sutton's Autumn Mammoth; of broccoli, which after all is only a very hardy kind of cauliflower, Nimmo's Prosperity, and Mount Cook; of cabbage, Sutton's Flower ol Spring and Blair's Phenomenal; of kale, dwarf green curled; and of savoy, dwarf curled. Though it is now too late to obtain large leeks with over a. foot of white, good useful stems can still be obtained by planting well-grown plants at once. The ground for leeks must be rich, and if they are to be planted on the potato patch near the winter greens a good dressing of well-decayed stable manure should be dug in deeply. Trim both the roots and the leaves a bit; make holes with a dibber about 6in deep, 9in apart in the row; and into these drop the plants. Do not push the soil into the hole, but water well and this will wash sufficient soil into the bottom of the hole to oover the roots. The stem when it grows should fill the hole, and the white part will be at least 6in long. Leeks require plenty of water and plenty of liquid manure, to encourage rapid and succulent growth. Endive is a useful plant which onn be used for salads when lettuce are scarce during winter. Sowings should be made at intervals of three weeks to provide succession, the first one being made now. The soil does not need to be very rich, but it must be well cultivated; sow in shallow drills, a foot to 15in apart; and keep them moist and shaded until tho_ seedlings apEear. As soon as the seedlings are fit to andle they are thinned out to 4in apart, and later to one foot to allow room for development. Endive has to be blanched before it is fit to use, and this can be done either by inverting a flower pot over the plants with the drainage hole plugged up to keep out the- light, by placing pieces of board over them, or by lifting the plants, a few at a time as required, carefully with a ball of soil and planting them in boxes or pots and placing them in a dark, warm structure to blanch. The varieties are broadleaved Batavian, Green Curled, or Moss Curled.

The early crops of cabbage, cauliflower, and turnips should be used by now. Dig out all roots, dig in a good dressing of well-decayed stable manure, level and make firm and smooth for a seed bed. On this make small sowings of stump-rooted carrots, golden ball and white turnips, onions, spinach, lettuce, and radish. It should bo noted that plants of the biassica family are recommended to follow early potatoes', and root and leaf vegetables to follow early cabbage and cauliflower, thereby following out as far as possible, even in a small garden, a system of rotation of crops. Celery can still be planted, and artichokes which are now growing strong can be earthed up to steady the tall stems.

ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS. "Anticipation."—lt is not necessary to shade the northern rata (Metrosideros robusta) from the sun, but it is necessary to shelter it from the S.W. winds, and while it is young and soft it would be a wise precaution to cover it with a few bits of scrub during the most severe winter months. Poison the foliage of your trees and shrubs with arsenate of lead to destroy the brown beetles. If your gooseberry bushes are stunted and the branches die back it is better to root them right out and replant. Young gooseberry plants soon reach the fruiting stage. "W. J." (St. Kilda).—lt would certainly hurt your olearia hedge to cut the roots close in with a spade, and if you can shift the border further out this would be more satisfactory. The name of the flower enclosed is Linaria reticulata, an annual toadflax. I do not know the variety of potato you mention, but eitner Jersey Bennes or iJp-to Date, if greened and sprouted, will give early and good crops. "A. R. C." (Roslyn).— The stronger growing clematis can. be propagated either by layers or cuttings. Scrape away the bark a little, peg down the stem to the ground, and cover with 3irf of sandy soil. This can be done now, but it takes some time for roots to form.

"Holly."—The beetles enclosed are the usual brown ones which eat the foliage of trees and shrubs and cause no end of trouble. They hide at the roots of hedges during the day and fly at night.. It will be the grub stage which is destroying the roots of your holly. These grubs are commonly called the grass grub, but they readily eat the roots of trees-and shrubs. By dusting apterite about the roots of your plants and forking it in, then watering it and covering the surfaco with sacks to keep in tho fumes, you will make the surroundings unhealthy for the grubs, if it does not r.ctually kill them. Good soakings of wuter and f.n occasional watering with liquid manure will help the nlants and make the surroundings unpleasant for the grubs. They do not like wet, firm soil.

" Rambler " (Outrom). —The varieties of ramblor roses I mentioned can be obtained from any "of the nurserymen who advertise at the head of (his column. The nurseryman who specialises in rose; has all the new varieties

"Milton."—Your peach tree is attacked by black apliis. Spray with soapy water, or better still, with kerosene emulsion—soap |lb, kerosene 1 quart, water 1 quart. Dissolve the soap in a quart of boiling water, then add the kerosene, keep hot, and thoroughly churn to get it tc emulsify.

Dilute with warm water, one to 24, and apply warm.

NURSERYMEN'S CONFERENCE. The annual conference of ttio New Zealand Association of Nurserymen was opened in Christchurch on January 22. uy tno Prime Minister or the Minister of Agriculture. A civic welcome has been arranged. Papers will bo read by Mr Robert Nairn on "lho Value of the Nursery Trade, to State," and by Mr Allied MDonald on "Suggestions ro the Formation of 4 Pomological Board ' and the Protection of the Hybridist." It is hoped that Messrs Thomas llorton and T. D. Lennie will also contribute papers. The following remits, amongst others, will bo dealt with: — From the Wellington Council: (1) That the prioe of roses (where less than six are ordered] be Is 6d each. (2) That the minimum price of ornamental shrubs be Is od each. From the Canterbury Council: (1) That the National Association draw the attention of the Minister of Agriculture to the anomaly of bedding plants being outside the operation of the registration of nurseries. (2) That the public receive some protection by way of the inspection and condemnation of worthless plants offered for sale. (3) That the need of establishing a National School of Agriculture in connection with one or more of the experimental stations bo urged on the attention of Government, with a special reference to afforestation. From the Auckland Council: (1 ' That all fruit trees be sold according to grade and not by age. (2) That the prices of roses (general collection) for 1918 be—Customer's selection, Is 6d each, 15s dozen; nurseryman's selection. Is 3d each, 12s per dozen. (3) That the price of Berberis Vulgaris for 1918 be (minimum)— One-year-old, 25s per 1O00; two-year-old, 40s per 1000. From the Hawke's Bay Council: (1) That in the event gf legal proceedings arising between any client and-any member of the association in reference to sales (and provided that the executive members in either island are of opinion that the case should be fought in the interests of _ the trade), the same shall bo gone on with, and all costs incurred shall be defrayed by the members of the association pro rata. (2) That conference place on record its most emphatic protest against various statements which appeared in the Dunedin papers re nurserymen using "Majetin stocks."