IN FASHION'S REALM.

Otago Witness, Issue 3332, 23 January 1918, Page 56

IN FASHION'S REALM.

WEEKLY UP-TO-DATE DRESS NOTES

By Maugueeitb.

Tho divided tunic will come in as a most prominent feature in new modes in costumes.

I have spoken of the square neck, pointing out its growing interest, and dilating on its beauty. I picked this blouse out to express it with tho broadest collar-border possible, one extending to the shoulders. It is a very pretty idea for a summer blouse. The embroidery is repeated on a neat turn-over cuff; and you will observe that tho front has two Norfolk-like pleats,

which can either be_ carried over the girdle, as shown on one side, or under it, as on the other. It is a blouse with a peplum or not, or a blouse which is separate or of the frock. I am not concerned with the application; only with the. design. Millinery is practically whatever you choose to make it. The shapes are large and small, close-fitting and broad-brimmed, high crowns and crowns not so high, and these square and round. At present one of the chief favourites is the sailor, the Breton especially, and often it is softened with a brim veiling of aeroplane. The trimming is the slightest—a mere touch, and sometimes of plaited wool. Rough straws as regards manipulation, but satiny otherwise, make pretty hats for the young where the brim is artistically undulated. I have one in my mind's eye now —a blue, with three bands of lace-straw, one around edge of crown, and tho others on brim, first -near crown, second to form an edge. The one around crown has little knots of blue velvet set against the lower sides and the trimming consists of two small bunches of grapes, one either side. Pedal straws aro seon in all the most attractive colours. As a rule they aro trimmed with folded ribbon finishing in a bow, or with flowers of more than usually good quality. French crinoline straw commends itself—shady hats bearing small clusters of flow.ers or fruit. Hats in many cases are much veiled, the idea being to soften them. Matronly hats are - very choice this season. One before me is fairly square, not unlike a " pork-

pic," with a narrow brim turned up at back The underbrim is white satin straw, and a band of same is seen on the upper part. All the rest is black —a straw woven to the delicacy of a fabric, and the surround is a wreath of black leaves with white hand-made roses, this being veiled. The side ornament is a skeleton wing of black crossed with another of white, and a veil for general purposes finishes a very taking creation. Another writer grows very eloquent on present-day millinery. Rather than rewrite* the item, thereby taking another's note and passing it on as though one's own. I prefer to quote it:—"Georgette ig used a great de'al for making and trim-

ming. Coloured bands of georgette may bo seen swathed round the crown of tho hat. In some instances an extra touch of trimming is added to tho head-gear by a wreath, or rather a string of differentcoloured beads—some are nearly as largo as cherries. Tho effect is good and decorative. A style that has created quito a vogue among the French women is the hat trimmed with smartly-tied bows of broad, black velvet ribbon of rather exaggerated proportions. Quite a millinery do luxe is to fashion a becoming *hat of white georgette, and 'trim it in this manner. It certainly is chic and becoming for women of any ago. Tho hat in many cases shows an underbrim of black georgette. It is all in perfect taste, and, I believe, this mode in black and white is to play a prominent part." Hat coverings aro important for all tho great latitude. Chintz is a eelection. It is generally of tho skyrt, and is very taking with a sailor Shane'; Hero it is in one of the best possible forms of the tunic referred to. The apron comes all the way down from a scalloped neck under a pretty collar belonging to tho inset. And let mo say that, if properly made, it gives height. Embroidery provides a finish to the upper part to lessen the effect of the width and to improve the neck, and three graduated inlet flounces on the skirt aro a commendable complement. TJio crossed belt is a feature, and the pretty puffed sleeve is bound to suit. Hat and sunshade would bo in harmony, or at least not in conflict. I should like to see more made of the tartan. What could be better in ribbons, sometimes to trim and sometimes used as a girdle? The Highland Societies generally have something to say on their festivals--than is, they decree a ribbon for the celebration, choosing first one and then another. You can get any clan you like, and practically in any width, from up. The chief tartan is, of course,, the Royal Stuart.

I feel like a pirate in annexing again from the writer of that hat item. And yet why not, as we all co-operate? This is on sunshades. Thus : " There are many very beautiful kinds. Colour, shape—all vary tremendously. "'At the present moment the chintz parasol promises to carry all before it. It certainly is most fascinating in the many different colours and designs. Quite gorgeous effects are achieved among these chintz parasols—wonderful-looking flowers in the gayest and brightest colours—in fact, they look more like a garden of. beautiful massed blooms than anything else." They, really are charming. In size they appear rather large, but suitable to hot days. These wonderful combinations of colours,- squashed together, give a decided touch to the costume of the wearer, adding greatly to the attractiveness of the outfit. They look very well when accompanied by a frock in one tone—white in preference. On the other hand, a chintz skirt to tone also looks remarkably smart. No doubt we shall see a variety of other chintz parasols this summer. They seem to be putting the other one-toned variety quite in the shade." This is the square neck again, but the object is to portray a blouse. The selection is a true Russian peasant's blouse, and fairly well portrayed. As a matter of fact, it is sometimes rather difficult to indicate

tho folds of a garment in line. This blouse is as simple as a blouse may be —summery and acceptable in either relation, as a separate or as part of a' frock. Thumb-nail notes on frocks include an American gingham in mediuni check—say reseda, —linen collar, cuffs, and belt trimmed with self-border; also a voile frock in small stripe design in fawn, with white voile collar, and cuffs, outstanding pockets, skirt fully gathered and self-folded belt; also an effect coat-frock in check zephyr, in navy, with sailor collar and cuffs, plain border, pocket and belt finish; also a white ground voilo frock with floral effect, square neck, and trimmed with white voile and pearl buttons. These little notes are sometimes serviceable, giving a feature when one is puckoring a brow wondering, or, perhaps, not recalling it just when wanted. It is the same with blouses, as a white voile square collar, set in sleeves, trimmed with coloured fancy voile and finished with hemstitching; also a dainty organdi muslin sot in sleeves, fancy cuffs, embroidered front, and finished with hemstitching; also a Jap crepe de chine, square neck and collar, finished with hemstitching and buttons, colour, say, pink. You will notice the repeated references to the square neck. It is the neck that wins by as much in a raco between such, round and V'd. This is a rather unusual coat. It is ordinary enough to the waist, but not below it. Spiral-like insets are employed, and such are striped, though not of a striking shade. The belt is alo striped, or, rather, mai-ked in keeping, as are the cuffs, and, perhaps, the collar should be the same. I am makine five thumb-nail notes of five skirts. Perhaps you are just off to make such a purchase. A pretty one is of goodquality white pique, inverted pleat, and fastening down front, fancy stitched patch pockets, with pearl buttons, stitched belt at waist, and eased in at back.

Another is of cream cotton gaberdine, wido panel front and back, finished with inverted pleats stitched at knee, fancy shaped belt at front and back, fastening at panel. A third is in white linen, with prettilydesigned patch pockets, casing at back, fastening at hip, and trimmed with pearl buttons. The fourth is of white pique, narrow tuck down front, fancy shaped poeitcts cominxr from waist, shaped belt,

easing at back, fastening on side. And the fifth is striped in saxe, with narrow white stripe, high-waisted effect, inverted pleats all round, finished at waist with narrow stitched belt. V What dainty little etceteras there are! I am reminded of this_ constantly, but the other. day I was reminded of it by the postman when he brought a little box from a near and dear one-, .which, on being opened, was found to contain a bunch of violets. They were of satin, and_ in two shades—pale violet and dark, —beautiful little models, all of them with golden centres, and those that hung being from little cup 3 of green. 'And the entire bouquet was gathered into a green satin leaf, and there wore the stalks and all—a stalk for each violet. How may a dainty little possession of this kind be used? Well, as tasto determines —on the corsage, against the girdle, or even, perhaps, on the hat. For at the back is a safety pin, and that completes things. These little etceteras are wonderful in enhancing a toilet. Very often they provide just that finishing touch which is necessary to make one say/ "Now, I am perfect."