IN FASHION'S REALM.

Otago Witness, Issue 3327, 19 December 1917, Page 57

IN FASHION'S REALM.

WEEKLY UP-TO-DATE DRESS NOTES

By Mabguehith.

The craze for cretonne is emphatically suggestive of the furniture department. The cretonnes are, however, very beautiful. They suggest the cubist school sometimes in the nature of the patterne and colours. A circular rose in red with a straight thin line to divide it and three leaves, two green and one brown, in angular shape, is an example. In choosing patterns some respect should be paid for one's own dimensions. " We, too, are patterns—patterns m the scheme of life, blonde and brunette, and large, and small. The stripe is never so risky, not even when broad, as all this, being confined, anyhow mainly, to the skirt, it never really matters. Incidentally there is an art scheme to emphasise,/ the striped skirt of colour with the plain coat being reminiscent of no end of associations which would be better understood in Europe—the j field, the seashore, the mountain, and, coming to the madding crowd v the studio. It is rapidly becoming an odds-and-ends season; but—will I be pardoned?—half the apparent humility with these; scraps is make-believe. • Here is a hat, and I am going to repeat the shape, poise, etc., as though a tracing, for the reason I shall {rive when I come to it. These simple, bell-like mushrooms grow

on one. They suit anyone of youthful years and with still some claim to youth before passing- the The very simplest trimming suffices. This, as you see, is just a band combining a pattern with plain, tied loosely and severely, but still artistically, and with a rose thrown on to the_ brim. The raised band was given a hesitating approval when first it came in a year ago. Now it is welcomed. This raised band of trimming on the bell-shaped hat is absolutely from the bell — the one that rings. When eo many had to be taken down in Europe, it was seen what beautiful designs they bore. I expect that the inspection of them was the inspiration for the revival. Pcradventure 'the first inspiration came from Moscow. Have you ever read a description of the Kremlin? It exceeds the wildest Arabian Nights' dream. The belfry contains 35 bells, which chime on religious festivals. Down below there is one bell which was never raised. It was because a piece was broken off after casting. This famous bell is to all intents and purposes the model for the bell-shaped hat. It, too, has its brim, and also its raised trimming. The latter consists of the most exquisite scroll-ribbon of grape leaves that ever was designed. No, I should not be surprised to read that the great bell of Moscow put the designers on the track. Very beautiful ready-made costumes are available, and with them coats and skirts. It is one's privilege to study one's age, and indeed one must._ What suits the young does- not necessarily suit the mature. The latter will choose sedate colours for the most satisfactory result. Picture a black eilk poplin with white waistcoat. The skirt is* quite plain and of generous freedom ; the coat Russian, with belt, but broken for a white waistcoat almost its length, and just shaped enough to suit. And, of course, there will be a turn-over collar from this with sailor back. Then come the etceteras —little patches of black and white, as on the corners of the coat, and to relieve the cuffs. And black-and-white buttons both on the coat and waistin two sizes. For youth there" is nothing like the smock coat, no matter how varied the expression. And there are • a thousand and one ways of providing something now These coats are always loose —free and easy, in fact, —with and without belts and girdles, but preferably with, and best when patternless, especially if the skirt Is patterned. In fact, the suit in mind is mostly the same when it 'i6 different —a paradox you will easily understand. " -- '

Hero is yet another expression of 'the blouse coat, combined with a cretonne skirt, in which an'effort has been made to give an idea of what I have already said respecting cubist designs. The coat is loose enough to slip over, notwithstanding 'the

waist. The lacing in front and the cord, girdle give a pleasing finish. Opportunity allowing, I have trimmed the hat to comport with the skirt—a hell repeating the pattern. If desired this also serves for-a blouse and skirt, the former to tho waist and the latter with extended frill. White qipue is one of the orders of the day. Let us therefore take a glance at skirts. These white pique skirts run from a few shillings to a small handful, but seldom over the 20. The cheapest would be simple—something, say, with a shaped belt, and a few pearl buttons. A better article will be smartly designed with long inset pockets with pearl buttons, a narrow belt gathering the fulness, similarly trimmed on tabs. A better one still will have gathered hip pieces, ever a beautiful idea, of which.*l have given several illustrations, and pearl buttons again, tho tabs being from the belt and varying from, a mere turnover to a cravat depth. Ahd the best of al will have long bag pockets narrow belt, and be finished at sides with buttons of self. I am picturing with these a less severe blouse, and such are in variety galore. When it comes to white pique coats and skirts where is the difference between these and any other, unless it is that they are comparatively severe? Everything in this case rests with the coat, which is generally a bit mannish, though not too much so. There is nothing prettier than the belted sac, yoke against collar, with panel side fronts from same continued to hem, so that the lines have tho suggestion of a "T"; and satchel pockets from belt drawing in the sides in box pleat fashion. Are wo getting tired of so much silk? I know not; but were ever silks seen at the price before? These Eastern silks made adorable summer costumes, and cost ever so attle. It is possible to get a coat and skirt or -costume in tussore for what I should think a fair prico without the making. This means that, to all intents and purposes, the making is thrown in. If I depart into other materials there is the range from gingham to poplin, half a dozen names all, of course, as familiar as household words. But back to white pique, because white is white, and summer the time to make the most of it.

Here is the same hat as before—anj'how, nearly so. But observe the trimming. I know a milliner who is wonderfully apt at this class of work —nothing in it, but try !

Two bands, and then clusters at intervals sprayed on teethe brim. Sometimes she produces check effects, and so on. ' One hat that caught my fancy had -an in-and-out lacing, as shown in the little panel. I made a thumb-note to include.

Having done it, I am rather pleased with myself in putting two hats on the one head. When you come to think of it, illustrators, in using a different one suggest that, though there is <=a hat for everyone, it is one hat and no more. A girl goes into the milliners and tries on a dozen. Is it not the same face and same coiffure all the time? It would not be a bad idea, therefore, if one were giving even 100 hats to poise them on the same head, so that the reader might see which suited the wearer best. But the change is wrought in tho tramming more, perhaps than by the shape. Glance at the two nats given and you will see this at once—same girl, same hat —anyhow, nearly—and yetnot tho same, and solely because of tho trimming. This is tho lesson with clothes as well as hats. Take braid. It is wonderful what you can do with,braid. In fact you can do anything with it if you have the least taste. And where not braid what of. a stripe which can be utilised as a trimming? Just the same—the designs are infinite.

But braid lends it-self to scrolls as well as straight effects, curves, trefoils, and ever so many fancies. Which mention causes me to say that an accessory of the domestio workroom is something seldom found there —a pencil compass. There is the upper part of a frock —in fact, all of it, so far as it is necessary for an illustration. And It explains what can bo done with eithei- braid or a stripe. Tho shapo is pretty, the lines good, and the.

square nock a bit of a relief. This is picked out boldly, as is the belt, and again tho pocket. The sleeve needs no. advertising. For the rest the skirt may bo quite plain or three rows used along the flounce lino. ■. -

The old-world manufacturers are still turning out beautiful goods, and they reach us in some way or other. When the war first started bright colours wore left on tho shelves, as such were in bad taste. Deference to those bereaved was a consideration in this matter, and black, black-and-white, and grey predominated for several seasons. Designers evidently awoke to a sense of how depressing this was to trade, so began to introduce little touches of colour, until now the brightest colours, blended in floral patterned silks, wool, and cotton goods are seen. Indeed, the other extreme has been reached. As I heard one of the sterner sex observe, 'You girls look as though you had blossomed into flower. Floral skirts, hats, sunshades, bags! Cheering, at all events!" When next you are trimming a straw hat of contrasting colours —say crown white, 'brim cerise-and-white, or other contrast — try adding just a small spray of tiny flowers just on the top of the crown. No other trimming. It is all-sufficient, and looks dainty. With a white dress with a few touches of the dominant colour to match, nothing could be nicer. W ; th all the bright, materials, .white still holds its own, and with tussore and Assam silks assist to tone down the "glare," if I may so express it. Little, silk-made posies for the neck are once more articles of . neck-wear —a finish to the. muslin collars, which, like the everpopular blouses, are st'll with us. embroidered and hem-stitched. White blouses aro worn with the brisrht cretonne skirts on sports occasions—tennis, athletic displays and so on.