IN FASHION'S REALM

Otago Witness, Issue 3315, 26 September 1917, Page 51

IN FASHION'S REALM

WEEKLY UP-TO-DATE DRESS NOTES By .Margtjebite. The world will never be the same again, even with dress. The rapidly increasing demand for the utmost simplicity has had a marked effect on the. new season's millinery. It is, in a sense, perhaps the severest spring wo have ever had. I see hats which but for the little trimming they carry might'well bo taken for a masculine etyle of some generations back. A very noteworthy one is a kind of revival of the coachman's hat, which, when it was launched about a year ago, was taboo in that it was left .in the window. But the shape has been varied, and with marked advantage. These semi-top hats are really very becoming, as, indeed, why should they not be? What is the hat of tho riding habit but a tall one, and name the ensemble that sets a woman off to better advantage? The new semi-top hat invariably spreads towards the crown, and owes much to its brim, which reverses the rule of tho "gutter" by taking the form of a "bell."

For example, here is one from a group of decided attractiveness. The crown might well be a liquid measure reversed; and

you seo the brim ends in a cleverly-designed border section, which looks quite "architectural." Tho least trimming goes with a hat of this characetr, which means that E ractically anyone can trim such a shape erself. Speaking generally, " angles" in millinery have disappeared. Beautiful fantasies are seen in straw and silk, aerophane, tulle, or net, etc., all moulded into softly curved brims. And the trend in trimmings is towards clever disposals of ribbon, garlands, and clusters of flowers, swirled Bcarves, sometimes rather gorgeous as regards hue, and so forth. For example, a graceful acrophane is carried out in a dainty biscuit shade, the outer edge of tho brim being outlined with fine black net, while a wreath of fruit and buds in sub- ( dued tones forms tho eimple trimming. \ Then a droop tagel is finely dealt with, with a trimming of pale mauve tulle, this forming a double effect at the edge, which carries a line of miniature roses. To complete a trimming proper appeal's in a disposal of ribbon. A very charminjr silk of tho pull-on kind has a brim which is rolled at back in < a black fancy satin straw, the finish being provided with flat flowers and foliage in subdued tones. Another pull-on is of black tulle with a soft, low-edged brim, a band and a streamer of narrow blue ribbon, some smart roses applied in a row finishing tho scheme. Tho sailor shapes will be legion. For an example, a very charming French sailor is in cornflower tagel with an underbrim of cyolamen pink taffeta, nnd is trimmed with folds of silk in shade, a touch of cornflower, aria a posy. Some of tho sailors have an all-round brim of an even width, and some are wider one side than tho other. Others again have a band at the front, and this is very becoming. Tho floral wreaths that trim such shapes are more than pretty.

One can spend, a very profitable half-hour in the millinery department just now, and, what is must. There is no merging betiveen last season's millinery and this one's. The styles are distinct, and everything is for the better. Now that you are so busy with the various types of needles, remember that much may bo done in a spare hour, if you are clever enough, to provide a personal touch in a hat-trimming that will admit < of it. Some of the very prettiest fancies are evolved with the least trouble; in fact, quite original things are sometimes the result in experimenting. > Another says: "A. uncommon decoration for a hat may be made by stuffing small pieces of gold tissue with cotton wool to form a cushion about the sizo of a crab apple. Decorate the surface with vivid embroidery silk, link about six togetherf and use either as tassels for a floral ■ spray. Bright pink, vivid blue, or grass green shows up well on the tinsel background, and the effect is not too garish if a number of vivid colours are introduced in the one cluster."

As everyone knows, the stripe has a high decorative value, and this season the uses will be varied indeed. This is a charming example t of what may be done by reversing the stripe, the opportunity for such a daring amount of it being provided by that charming new feature, the yoke frill on the skirt. The more I study this detail

the more I like it, the one fault- I have to find being that it is calculated to be destroyed by its very beauty. You seewhen anything very original comes along it is exploited to the death, and that settles it. There is wisdom in the _ bright little anecdote, mere man asking his wife what's wrong with this —" Oh, nobody's wearing it" —and then with that —"Oh, everybody's wearing it." The model is attractive also because of the blouse; and, lastly, opportunity has been taken to impose a hat of rather unique design-. I annex the following odds and ends: Pretty new blouses are of fine white net, tucked to give fullness, and piped with blue or other coloured linen. There is the usual round collar and a plaited frill, and the cuffs are formed of rufflings of the net, on either side of which appear bands of it, piped in -the colour. . . . Painting the trimmings needed for hat, gowns, and even lingerie clothes* is tho very latest, . . . Black satin is the favourito material just now for separate coat, jacket, or wrap wear. Tho separate box coat of black taffetas or satin will be very smart.' . . . Stoles in narrow scarf shapes and cape style are the smartest for furs. These little necklets of light fur are very becoming and look so dainty. . . . One pretty fancy for the summer is a combination of a silk sacque with a ruffled lace skirt. Tho saequo is made of taffeta, usually in an eighteenth century collar, its edge outlined with nineteenth century ruching. It is slightly low in tho neck, and usually belted with a piece of itself fastened with a bunch of pink roses in front. The skirt is of that new kind of lace tliat is quite popular this season. There is a net foundation with a wide, sprawling lace design" worked over part of the surface. These skirts are made of ono deep Spanish flounce, or a series of graded ruffles placed at frequent intervals. . . . Gowns of black lace will be much worn, made of Chantilly, of ballot lace, and of the iargc figured silk Spanish lace. The foundation is of net or thin chiffon. White lace is lavishly used for young girls' spring frocks., and ribbon is to be used in great quantities. . . . The picot-edged silk ribbon probably leads all the others; it not only trims gowns, but hats and underlinen.

Designs are sometimes given to provide something when someone is wondering just what kind to adopt. We all have these occasional doubts. When it comes to the

bodice in dresses of < the Jkind that make this a marked consideration, I know of none prettier than tho one that makes something of tho swathed fold. This is an example, where the usual sameness is

broken -with a very taking side section, the material being- festooned agam over a. break with a kind of belt underneath in contrast to emphasise it. Spring skirts are bound to engage more than usual attention. This is because of the many new features that are oentralised round tins particular section of the costume. A perfectly-cut costume skirt in a new check will perhaps have a*- panel down the front forming a pleat, falling loose from tho knee level, with a belt aoross back, terminating in side design with buttons to finish. A well-tailored costume say, in fawn gaberdine,, may bo fully flared, eased at pack, shaped to form a side design, and finished with arrows, belt, and self buttons. A good tailored costume skirt in, say, navy coating serge of fine quality may be flared with bag pockets at sides and shaped belt, these being trimmed with braid and self buttons. Another may bo in navy coating serge, with panel back and frpnt, shaped bands, fastening envelope' fashion, and cable stitched. The side trimmings provide a distinguishing feature. Skirts aro selected for the purpose in view, from .those that are too good for anything down to the simplest of the utility kind. But where this is in Keeping the new hip yoke is out and away the great feature. These blouses can hardly bo overdone. The inspiration is an inheritance from the Russian —in fact, all such styles are always Russian. As a rule I give any such front view, and this is side for a -change. The only original note is in the collar ±his being

one of the new styles. We are bound to see no end of these blouses as the season progresses; but —not an end to them any time. My prophecy is that the blouse -with the workmanlike extension has come to stay.