IN FASHION'S REALM.

Otago Witness, Issue 3292, 18 April 1917, Page 51

IN FASHION'S REALM.

WEEKLY UP-TO-DATE DRESS NOTES • By Maegueeite. New fashions arc in the air, new frocks in the making. ' Side by side with the silhouette of fitted bodice and flaring skirt a new one is appearing in which the lines hang straight from the shoulder. There is little change in the actual width of skirts. It is simply that the great dressmakers have conceived two methods of arranging the fulness. It is not a question of eliminating the flared skirt, but of supplementing- it by a second silhouette. For many the new lines will be most acceptable; but ■not everyone can wear the short, distended .skirt. In the new silhouettes the waist-line has shown a surprising willingness to arbitrate all differences of opinion as to its position. With the fitted bodice and bodice girdle the waist-lino is perfectly normal. But the new one-piece dresses of the princess type that are being put forward have no waist-line of their own. Waist and skirt are cut in an unbroken length, and can bo bolted in at any point you think becoming. The young and slender are pushing their belts and sashes upward almost to the old Empire line. The more conservative wear theirs at the natural waist-line, while the extremists, who believe that a good style is at its best when it is newest, are taking up the new waist-line that comes somewhere about the hips. There is every indication that these onepicco princess dresses, some of them of the simplest possible type, others pleated below a yoke or made with 'flyaway pockets and the now sleeve that runs up into a point on the shoulder, will have a tremendous voguo as walking frocks. They have the simplicity that endeared sports clothes to us before, with an even greater degreo of trimness and style. Conspicuous among the tailleur dresses'are the ones that have the new low waist-lino effect. In reality they have no waist-line, for the upper part has a semi-fitting like a princess dress and is cut off at the hips, so that with its pleated

skirt it achieves an effect m of a low waistline. For the street princess and semi-princess dresses are mado mostly of serge, gaberdine, light-weight wool poplin, stripes and checks. Later, of course, will come broadcloth and velveteen. The Russian blouse, and the blouse that apes the Russian effect in that it is long and is worn over tho skirt, are mado of the light-weight wool materials, and are worn over pleated or semicircular skirts. This is a very pretty tricorne. I took it from a " milinery lesson' —how to make one at home. Tho original gavo tho frame-

work —the wires. Nothing 150 much in it with a little experience. It is velvet and silk, and'observe that the crown is in sections. A band in contrast helps the brim, and a butterfly ornament completes. I again quote: " The separate coat has followed very naturally in the wake of the

popularity of the separate skirt. The sweater and sports coat fad paved the way for its acceptance among smart women. The one-piece serge dress will be worn later in the season with a long coat of wool velours, corduroy, or broadcloth. These coats usually hide the entire dress, or else are long so that only a few inches of the hem appear below them. They ripple generously either from, the shoulders or from a yoke or below the waist-line. Big collars are characteristic of the new coats, arranged so that they can adapt themselves ' to the weather. With afternoon dresses these same coats are made of velvet, plush, or velveteen. Or you can have a coat with an Empire body if you do not care for the simpler lines. But for top-coats and sports coats, the ripple typos hanging from the shoulders or belted in at the waistline, are made of cheviot, homespun, zibeline, checks, stripes, plaids, double-face cloth, chinchilla, and mixtures. The plain dark colours are best for general wear and afternoon use. Dark blue, dark green, brown, and grey are the best colours for wool materials. Velvet and plush are at their best in black. Corduroy in its own natural colour is good, and it is also used in black, dark blue, grey, preen, and brown. For a top-coat the heather and game-bird mixtures, mist and dust colour are very useful for travelling, motoring, etc." ( It is of importance nowadays how you dress your hair in front. Pompadour and bouffant effects are out of date. A smooth wave is a typical feature of the present-day coiffure. Fluffy or inclined to be curly hair can bo coaxed into this wave in time by judicious combing, patting, and arangmg at the right angle. But if your hair is not fluffy you will require to have it waved at a hairdresser's for the first once or twice, and then if you invest in the necessary wavers vou should be able to do it for yourself. The side wave is typical of the stvlo at present in vogue. In this case there is a tiny side-parting, but nowadays it is also modish to have the hair waved without any sign of a parting. This is an exquisite little dress; plain, yes. but of elegant cut and finish. As you will see, fur plaj's its part, and the hat is en suite. These double rows at the waist, whether of fur or braid, are a. very plea* ing treatment, and the sleeve has an extra row. The pocket, too, is worth a note — one of the slipper varieties. There will yet bo a sharp return to less full skirts. It is showing a little now, and

will becomo apparent later. This cornea from oversea: "It will bo safo to predict styles with less exaggerated hip dimensions. We shall seo barrel shapes carried out even with coats. Even those of hiplength will be narrow around tho bottom and bulgo over tho hip. but without airy gathered fullness. Women of the Old World

are rebelling against a return to narrow skirts. But for once they will have to submit to being consistent, which is rare in the matter of woman's dress, for La Mode will demand narrow skirts because of her inability to find material enough for wide ones."' Now, clearly understand that this is a far-on paragraph. I have mentioned it simply to give you. an idea- of what is in store. Coming to earth again, the coats cro already much longer. The winter season, will see no more of the short coats that stand out in bunches of fullness over tho hips. Whilo fur trimming. is destined to play such a part, embroidery will be used in profusion on practically everything—coats, skirts, blouses, and hats._ In particular it will bo metal embroidery, and it will be very rich-looking. The modes just now are linked with features. ■ I do not remember a time when so 'much was. made of so many in conjunction. It is as though those fairies called the Nicknacks had got to work- to see how many things they could impose at the one time. Comes the one with straps—were there ever so many pretty fancies? tho one with pockete —truly a leader; the one with embcridertes —they are galore; the one with buttons—they eclipse everything; the one with fancy bags and sachet purses, incidental to which, if it ever reaches your way, is an Egyptian perfume, in a ''mummy" box entirely reminiscent of the far past. This is one of the fashionable -coats. Note the silhouette, and. above all, the box-pleat holders over belt—how these arc arranged end how they resolve out to nothing. Somehow they give quite a military touch.

I make special mention of them becauso I sec so many designs that feature thi* novelty Then the belt itself is worth a line; and the fur collar and cuffs, another. \ word on the new corset. Ihe corset of many bones is much shorter this season j but the very newest model, and the corset which may yet be made almost to the exclusion of others, is one which has no bones whatever on /the hips. There is tho stiontr bone, supported by a smaller stay down the front, and the usual back stay, which also has a second support; but sides are quite free and supple, giving the hips their natural curve. Ihe front stays are arranged to give the figure thatcurvedin effect that the present fashionable silhouette demands. . The ideal Rusian blouse coat is long, rather wide at waist., with graceful lmes, and distinguished for its remarkably deep belt This carries two buttons, and one appears on the blouse above to make a set of three. The fullness is gathered into this rather regularly, and the skirt of tho coat as a consequence falls in regular folds, A fur collar is worn with fur cuffs, and tha skirt is quite plain. In going in for a Russian blouse coat with coat, such being a. suit, there is tho question of material. .For general wear duvetyn, zibeline, broadcloth, corduroy, and gaberdine would' bo good for this style. Any of these materials may bo worn anywhere in the daytime, and in sombre colours are not too elegant for general use. But for tho nicest suit you will want ■velvet, plush, chiffon, velvet or panne velvet. Velvet nowadays is a mere figure of speech. The great dressmakers use and

recommend velveteen because it looks well, wears bettor, and costs less than silk velvet. The colour is as important as the material, especially if you arc going to use fur on your suit. The dark shades of blue, green, purple, grey, and brown are the smartest of the season. Chinchilla, grey, 01* black astrakhan, beaver, seal, and ermine are' beautiful on dark blue or dark green, or on purple. Moleskin, mink, beaver, and seal look well with dark brown chinchilla; grey astrakhan, ormino, and seal are better than any other furs with grey. I have bracketed two evening skirts. The one shows a pretty hip treatment combined with a general bunching up, and what

borders is fur. The other is equally nice, and designed to show a swathing with apron against hip extensions. Hero is something cm boot;;: Brown suedes are to bo very fashionable. Then the newest thing are embroidered boots, or boots that look so. Tho words of the manufacturer will be rood with interest: "We have designed thcao new boots with an embroidered bracelet, and they are proving to bo exceedingly popular. All our Old World customer* like the bracelet, which is very new." The boots that are not actually embroidered have a cut-out design with a piece of leather of a contrasting colour put under the cuts —a novel and attractive idea. ■