THE GARDEN.

Otago Witness, Issue 3292, 18 April 1917, Page 6

THE GARDEN.

OPERATIONS FOR THE WEEK. KITCHEN GARDEN—The general c- ape of potatoes, carrots, peas, French beans, and scarlet runners bein<r removed, largo plots of ground are ready lor digging and trenching. The mode in which these operations are carried out will be .governed by tho character of the soil. If it is deep and of good quality throughout, the trenching can bo carried on to a depth of 3ft in the usual manner; but if there is but a foot of good soil resting on a hard subsoil, semi-trenching or double-digging must be resorted to. By this method tho subsoil is merely broken up and_ left at the bottom, the top spit being simply turned over If there is any material at hand which will improve tho quality of the subsoil it may be incorporated with it as the work goes on, so that in course of time a portion may be brought up to the surface

and mixed with the fertile soil. When scarlet runners and French beans are required for seed, they should be gathered at once, as they are liable to bo injured by frost.

FLOWER GARDEN.—As the general planting season is again near at hand, some preparations arc now necessary where it is intended to plant out new enclosures or make additions to existing gardens. In the former case it should be the aim to have all necessary ground work, such as trenching, levelling, and forming, completed as early in the season as possible, as the soil is in a much better condition for such operations than when it has become saturated with water. An early start in the matter of forcing new lawns is of the greatest importance, as if not sown clown before the end of May the young grass suffers very much from frosts in exposed situations, and assumes a yellow and unhealthy colour, which lasts far into the spring. 'ln such positions, unless the seed can be sown early, sowing should be deferred til] August, and if the surface of the intended lawn is kepi, moved -incessantly by deeply hoeing or forking over, much' good will be done, as it will servo to kill many noxious weeds which exist, and sweeten the soil to a large extent. Where grass seed has already been sown, as soon as well up a roller" should bo used oyer the surface ,two or three times at short intervals, which has a very beneficial effect. Any bare spaces should have a little extra 6ced sown over them. Beds and borders should during the next two or three weeks be cleared of annuals and other summer-flowering plants; and tender plants to bo saved for another year should be lifted and safely housed. Plant hyacinths, tulips, narcissi, anemones, ranunculi,- scillas, and other hardy bulbs, choosing a day when the soil is not wet and sticky. Divide and replant herbaceous plants, such as phlSxes, peonies, irises, perennial sunflowers, campanulas, and all other subjects of a similar character which it is desired to replant, or increase. Prepare beds of sandy peat for rhododendrons, azaleas, and other plants of a hard-wooded nature. FRUIT GARDEN.—The gathering of apples and pears must be proceeded with, as most_ of tho late varieties are now fit for storing, and where they are wanted for late use the fruit requires careful handling, which in many cases it does not receive. When peaches, apricots, etc., havo been budded the ties should be loosened, and if tho union is complete the tying may bo removed altogether. GREENHOUSE AND FRAMES.—Every week will now make a difference in tho amount of water that will be required in the greenhouse, as the plants must have a much drier atmosphere during the dull ■winter months than was necessary for them in hot, dry weather. No water should now be thrown about on the stages and floors, and during cold weather much less air should bo given, and when frosty nights are expected all the ventilations should be closed early in the afternoon, so as to give tho plants the benefit of the sun heat. Many of the summer-flowering plants are now going off, and all such as gloxinias and begonias (both tuberous-rooted and foliage) should be kept in a dry state during winter; and colons to be successfully wintered will need to be placed where frosts cannot reach them, and they require but very little water during the winter months. Pelargoniums must be kept free from all kinds of insects, or their growth will bo seriously affected. Rooted cuttings should be potted up into small pots and grown on.

HORTICULTURAL NOTES.

By J. Geeete. PREPARING FOR WINTER, There is generally at this season a number of plants in the beds and borders that will not stand frost, and which one would like to save through the winter. Theso should be lifted and potted up and stood in a sheltered place out of doors for a week or two before being placed in the greenhouse or under glass. Some of the greenhouse plants, such as begonias, fuchsias, cannas, and a few others,. the beauty of which is past, and are ripening off, may be stored under the stages or in some place out of the reach of frost, and then space on the stages will be available for those lifted from the borders. When housed, seo that they be not overcrowded, as the inhabitants of the greenhouse during the dull months of winter require plenty of space between them and a free circulation of air, so that they can be kept in a clean and healthy condition. Heliotrope, familiarly known as cherry pie, and popular on account of its delightful scent, can be easily kept over the winter by potting up the old plants or by rooting cuttings now. If the former method is adopted, a few plants kept over will give plenty of cuttings in early spring. Fuchsias stored away for winter should be looked over once a month to seo that the soil is not too dry, or the wood will shrivel. The soil should not be allowed to become dust-dry. Plants of fuchsias that have been in the borders during summer may be stored' in boxes If desirable to keep them over in the greenhouse, and these will supply an abundance of cuttings in early spring. Unless wanted for propagation, they may as well be left in the ground, for, although the tops may bo frosted, they will push strongly from the roots during spring, and flower more profusely than young plants just put out. Lobelia comes fairly true from seed; but a few plants of any particular shade which it is desired to keep may be lifted, cut back, and potted up. Placed on the shelf of the greenhouse, they require only a little, attention, an occasional watering being sufficient. In early spring they willfurnish an abundance of cuttings. In pot-ting-up pelargoniums select the sturdiest plants and remove some cf the largest leaves; but no shoots should bo cut, as they are liable to damp. The roots may bo shortened and the plants potted into small pots, as few roots are made during winter. They should receive only sufficient water to keep them from shrivelling. The shelf of a greenhouse and near tho glass is the best position for them. Tuberous begonias should be lifted whenever tho tops fall down, and placed hi a frost-proof place until thoroughly dry, when they_ can be placed out of tho roach of frost and kepi perfectly dry. Those in pots may remain in their pots until growth starts in spring,, but must have no water. If the pots are placed on their sid-33, thoy may be allowed to becomo dust-dry with safety.

CINERARIAS. For autumn and «arly winter bloom few things will equal cinerarias, and as cut flowers the bright-coloured varieties are very useful, and under artificial light are very attractive. For early flowering, seed ought to bo sown in August under glass,

and when the seedlings are sufficiently strong prick them off into shallow boxee; and when they begin to get crowded they should bo planted out of doors in a sheltered place, and protected a little until the plants become established. They may then bo allowed to grow as they like until the autumn, and then, before they are likely to bo injured by frost, they can be lifted with balls of soil and potted. They are etill_ to remain in the open without protection, unless there is a likelihood of frost, the object being to keep them as hardy as possible. _ Under this treatment the plants are hardier and more robust than when grown under glass, and are not so subject to insect pests. When it is no longer safe to leave them out, they can bo removed to the greenhouse or. frames, where their flowers will develop in duo time. Where the area of glass is limited,-the method described will -be found an advantage. Many other plants would do better with the same treatment, and give better results than if coddled continually under glass. PERENNIAL LOBELIAS. Seldom_ are these perennial or herbaceous lobelias met with in gardens, although capable of contributing considerably to the beauty of autumn gardens. They do not thrive in every position, but with a (little management they may be had in perfection. Naturally, they grow in bogs or moist, shady places, so that in cultivation their wants in this respect should be studied, as, if planted in dry, sunburnt exposures, they will never be satisfactory subjects. In partially-shaded situations and in damp, rich soil, they will grow to perfection, and never fail to attract attention. For garden purposes Lobelia cardinalis and Lobelia fulgens are equal in merit, and both have bright scarlet flowers. Hybrids of these are also cultivated, and in these there are many shades of colour, all being beautiful and interesting to the lover of hardy, herbaceous plants. They are easily raised from seed, or the old plants in the spring may be divided into as many plants as are wanted. A single crown planted will flower the following' season, and will have much larger and finer flowers than those left undisturbed. In the milder districts they will stand the winter out of doors; but where frost is very severe, the plants will be better with a certain amount of protection, such as a cold frame or under the stage of a greenhouse. LATE APPLES AND PEARS. These will now be all ready to come off the trees —indeed, the probabilities are that they will have been harvested before these lines see the light of print. It must, however, be borne constantly in mind that it is only those specimens which are allowed to_ hang till the last possible moment which will develop full keeping powers. Early picking may be more convenient at times; but the trouble is that as a rule the fruits thus gathered will shrivel badly, and lose in value. In any case, let each fruit be handled so carefully that it is impossible for it to receive the slightest injury, and during _ the 14 days immediatly after harvesting examine each fruit once or 'twice to see whether there are signs of trouble from any cause, and, if so, take out the faulty ones.