IN FASHION'S REALM.

Otago Witness, Issue 3278, 10 January 1917, Page 51

IN FASHION'S REALM.

WEEKLY UP-TO-DATE DRESS NOTES By Makgubbite. Paris is making a feature of styles to suit. And as one hour never knows what the next is going to bring forth, it has set , London and New York guessing, and guessing in modes is unsafe. As a result Paris was never so much in the ascendant as dictator of what is coming. And, like a good patriot, she is making the most of her opportunities by launching one surprise after another, as for a late instance the inclusion here and there or fabrics which in normal times would be better known in the upholsterer's department than in the dressmaking. 1 am making much of this, because of my authority —not a mere rumour from one quarter, but the declared judgment of London and New York together. Paris is the centre of fashion in the same way — the recognised one to which all must bow for reasons that are not in any way whimsical, but, on the contrary, commercial and economic. And so as this extraordinary position in regard to woollens, silks, and cottons has compelled what I have mentioned — the modes are more the prerogative of Paris than ever. And no one can bo sure of anything much two weeks running without keeping in touch. Here, however, is where the southern 1 world gains. We have the styles of the coming season before us, more or less, before we have quite done with the old. _ I observe, however, a marked tendency in this \ country to anticipate. Thus, whereas at one I time we were content to wear in any one i season what Paris had hall-marked for the corresponding one there, necessarily eomo I months ahead, nowadays we want to level up, so that in any ono season, while true i enough to materials, wo frequently incline I to a newer mod..' as regards tho style in which they are fashioned. While it has come to this that a city like New York is I unable sometimes to depend on the traveller I for a mere week's voyage, as changes are 1 now rciruk'i'l" cabled daily to that centro

from Paris, wo here, enjoying summer, want to borrow from what in other days we have to await its waning and the start of an;umn. It is in the general sense the most noteworthy feature of modern modes, everyone so anxious to be in with the latest as to make some degree of defiance of what should be really inevitable. For which single reason I am showing you this: the upper section of a costume. It illustrates all the preceding. Strictly speaking, it is one of the new French autumn modes, but early autumn, as noto tho collar. Now, the design was by one of tho greatest of Paris authorities, and I selected it because, in going over a set ,ot catalogues. I found so many adaptations-

In tho original the dress itself was described as of one fabric, tho girdle of another, this providing a deep flounce to the skirt, those extraordinary pockets of another again. And with all the flounce the skirt was short enough to require tho assistnnco of a petticoat of extended length, which I strongly expect was another combination of materials—flounce one thing, upper part anything. Even so, it is not an extreme illustration. Thus the catalogues referred to contained no little fine elesigns emanating from the best studios, that, if the colours would admit of the simile, might be likened to Joseph's coat. Thus I noted an extraordinary use of embroideries of one kind and another, and less, I suspect, to embellish than to makq the material nasi out to requirements. And unless my sight deceived me, some of those embroideries might in less strenuous days bo found more appropriately in association with certain drawing room furniture. Cuffs, collars, and pocket pieces were to be looked for; but what or coat borders so broad as to reveal the intention to reduce the call on the material used for the basis? And as for millinery—well, I should say that coming l styles had in manv instances been sent in the shape to that department, not to ba trimmed, as ordinarily understood, but to ba upholstered. Speaking of millinery, wo are making a good deal of sailors. For example, herd are two that attract my notice. One is a Breton sailor of fine tagcl, becomingly trimmed in the quaintest possible manner with faille ribbon in a shade, as grey and pink, putty and helio, etc Two, another in fine tagel prettily trimmed with a fancy band effect of samp in contrasting tone, tho brim edge being piped to match this, and everything finished with small ornaments in Oriental colourings; bioge and saxc, white and navy, etc. Flanking these. I may observe a large French sailor of fine tagel, the broad leaf being slightly drooped and piped to match the tone of" the trimming, this consisting of a band and bow of silk ribbon; white and black, black and putty, cyclamen and purple, etc. And--a most charming sailor, decidedly new, of fine tagel, tho loaf having a pretty kink in front and piped to match the tone of the trimming, such consisting of a band with the end passing through a straw buckle; pink and biege, navy and pink, etc. The straws just now are of fascinating character. The .fancies cover an extraordinary range, and one of the loveliest, of all is the straw called "Yedda." With the modes what they are tho hat is half the battle. It makes or mars the ensemble every time.

Tlfis 13 an economical dress of very approved lines—a dainty thing in its way, combining stripe and plain, the _ former the body of the blouse and skirt, also belt,

and the latter the cellar, frontal band and sleeves, t'to first having a frill and supporting a fine cravat divided by the band. In association I may notice the pretty shape cf the hat, and the success attained by those three applications and flower. All which conforms to, and is assisted by, a sunshade to suit, the nature of which is

indicated in the Japanesy selection showing at side. Etceteras fo emphasise just now are laco collars —Bruges hire, flat; filet '.aoe, sailor; tluchcs ••. with scalloped edge; point venise,. epaulette shape, and so on. Then organdie muslin cape collars of varied prettiness, and same daintily embroidered. In association cigandi coat fronts richly embroidered —something to commend. It is only _ a step to veils— tiinon. hemstitched, plain, and coloured, from a yard and a-half to two yards long. Who would be without a bag—who can be? I am not referring to leather, but to fabric—some are very beautiful. I may, perhaps, give a line to what may be called drapers' jewellerycoloured enamel neck pendants, enamel with floral colouring* on same, and pin brooches. Etceteras include handkc: chiefs I like the presentation kind the year round. And by a stretch of the* imagination those sunshades that come, under the heading, frivolous. These two reveal no end of pretty manipulations, and as -.vide a scope in shape as the line permits. Floral and plain, frilled and not, lace decorated and less this, they are very fascinating. Why not include a reference to footwear? What was ever made in this line equal to now. I love these white boots and shoes, with their pretty smudge of a toecap, high heels, etc. Many of these choice boots and shoes are American If there is ono thing the American shines in it is a lady's boot. The blouso wear is all that the most fastidious can desire. Tho blouse is hallmarked, as a rule, by its collar and sleeve. Here is a very charming selection that emphasises what is best in both. The collar is free, standing well off tho neck with a choice Tittle support with two bands

down front that look as though turned from it tucks in shoulder end front, and tassels to finish. All sleeves that arc caught into the cuif as though drawn are to Be commended, and this is as good an expression as any. A word on sports coats —silk-knitted, lightweight, five-eighth length, roll coilar, belt at back, two pockets, Raglan self buttons, in purple, champagne, or grays, what could bo more delightful? Or one silk-knitted, 36in, very full and losoo-fitting, roll collar, pockets, Raglan sleeves, broad sash with fringe, cyclamen of pink—the very latest. Or for a choice the new Russian sports in heavy crepe cle chine, open front, full flared basque, back cut square, falling over belt, fancy-stitched collar, front and cuffs, in light blue, navy, royal, or lemon. The Russian sports is the coming selection; but to 6ee it in all its glory wo must wait. It will, I expect, find votaries everywhere—in fact, the note of early events is towards everything Russian, sports and blouses in particular. And as for coats —well, I must not anticipate by saying more than that the Russian in all sorts of expressions will rule. .In these utility days we cannot pass the utility garment. I am showing a-blouse on simple lines, mainly to draw attention to the

rather neat shoulder. While not quite original, it stems to make the most of a good idea; and because of the .step in the collar it is given a very pretty diamond end by that simulation. Just one noto in relation to autumn, the styles for which are on the horizon. And this to refer to evening gowns. Brocaded Bilks, failles, satins, voiles, with ever a glint of silver or gold thread in the scattered design which ornaments them, or, more lovely still, the shimmering threads of metal woven in with the silk ground. Colours such as the primitives used in their frescoes, and in which the Russians have to-day costumed their fairy tale ballets, all these will be found in evening attire. The peculiar formation of these evening frocks will be unlike those of past seasons. They will almost always be made in two distinct sectionsclinging, filmy layers of drop skirts of graded depths, the enwreathing of the shoulders in flesh-like tulles, and vards of metal brocades or silk, which forms a sort of smaller and generally draped outside dress. Sleeves seem to be lacking, yet from one shoulder long scarfs of tulle will train often on the ground, half _ concealing the arm. Handkerchief-shaped pieces of tttllo will form bretelles, the points falling over the shoulder and tipper arm. Under all the skirts there will bo found a rather tight drop skirt of satin. But it will bo so short that it will serve only to cover the knees. Many of the full-gathered skirts, instead of being hemmed, will bo caught up under a tighter drop skirt. This will make the skirt hem appear puffed. It also, will give tho effect of Turkish trousers when the gathering is arranged in a certain fashion. Sometimes one side will be caught up higher by a decorative swinging ornament. A 3 for dress lengths, the longest tulle layer or tho lowest lace flounce will always be ankledepth. Trains will bo generally a separato panel from waist or shoxildor.

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