IN FASHION'S REALM.

Otago Witness, Issue 3276, 27 December 1916, Page 55

IN FASHION'S REALM.

WEEKLY UP-TO-DATE DEESS NOTES. By Maugueeite. We are inclining to the Russian. Aa soon as the present season wanes it maycome with a rush. Meanwhile anythingis good that leans that way. Now, you may think that we had the Russian before. No, but only the semi. This time it will b- real Russian—coats and blouses 60 emphatically like as to pass muster with the inspiration; skirts full but not flaring, and short enough to reveal a Russian boot. They tried to popularise this before; put it was too much of a novelty. Next time it v ill be the boot of boots. But above all, the feature will be Russian embroideries. They are correct enough now.' and will grow "and .grow till they are *. rage. It means plenty of metallic work and rich effects. I have' spoken of the Russian blouse. It is coming as the blouse of blouses, eclipsing all. It is the blouse that goes over the head—a peasant's blouse pure and simple. Some are belted; some, again, are drawn with a cord, but never tightly. The charm of the Russian blouso is°its naturalness. At present it is the trick to give it a not-quitc-on effect. The collar rolls well from the neck, and the front is slashed to suggest that the side* haven't been buttoned. When buttons and cords are used with the inset in contrast the effect is charming. "~ Well, I have three extremely pretty

blouses to show—ono a semi-cvening ot party, one more or less so, and the other afternoon. I had better start out with the first. This- is a girlish creation of very

choice character. Of gossamer fineness, much is madfl of a threaded or unproved ribbon. There is a brace effect, from the shoulder to the waist in broad "V form, and two arches with frontal bows. I lien a ribbon girdle is used with another, though lied bow. I think you will 'ike the neck, and, above all, the pretty fiouneeci sleeve. ..... , Picture a frock of orchid pink faille and silver lace. The faille overdress descends in points over a delicate tracery oi silver laco mesh, again interwoven over the hips with the orchid overdress. The back of the corsage, crushed down in front, forms the girdle. Large clusters of pinkyred geraniums seem as if tossed at the fair wearer. They aro posed lightly on the corsage and skirt. The shoulders are semi-transparentlv veiled in tulle, crossed bj glittering strands. Sweet simplicity, charming colouring, and daintiness are the potes of evening frocks. The sloping skirt hems on evening dresses and coats are the main style feature. There is a graceful undulating wave to the lower edge of skirts which takes a <rood deal of cleverness to get just right, so that it will (not seem that the wearer has on a dress which has shrunk-or been badly hung. Besides the doping hem, it is also semi-transparent, for the fust Bin or 9in are often of the deep lace flouncings or those of gold lace of the Rcnaissaince type. In some evening frocks the ekirt hem is caught up in a slight drapery besides being shorter. In this way not only the insteps but a good 3in or 4in above of silk stocking may bo seen. Black net and tulle _ aro oftem mounted over colour on evening dresses. A charming gown is composed of overskirt layers of black tulle on an old gold satin foundation. Through the net the old gold satin looks like gold, but without the extreme sheen. There is no distinct touch of yellow on the outside of the gown; it is trimmed with cut jet edges which sparkle beautifully, and accentuate by medmm'*dth strands a long moyen age waist•e. Slippers and stockings should match 'ening dresses. Where the dress is, so *hort in places or so transparent if a different coloured stocking is worn the silhouette is wrong. No matter how lovely the dress may be the effect is spoiled if this point is overlooked. From which to a simple summer frock. High waists should be natural ones. That is as regards volume. Much is achieved here with verv little effort. Two matena's

are used, and I have dotted one to mako it distinct. I think you will like the collar. The bands that come down on the skirt give length to the upper section. The Greek key on the skirt, at foot, is ever a favourite. What it docs is revealed.

Chiffon blouses, dress tops., and blouses now have their edges overbound with a narrow £in or I'm band of the chiffon to give just the right degree of solidity to this material. Edges of surplice fronts, collars, cuffs, etc., all show this finish. If the material is taffeta or satin the overbound edge matches. Of course, this edge is put on by hand, and is often pressed into a fold in the centre first to keep it from getting askew. The blouse that is not Russianised to some extent will soon bo out of date. _ Note this quote from headquarters—Paris: "The Russian slip-over blouse is chio and easy to wear. Though buyers may demand something different it will bo worn for the balanco of summer and then right through autumn and into .winter." The blouse is often improved with a "collet." This is now the name of the little collar shoulder cape. It is too good to dispense with. When tho season wanes more will be made of the convertible kind. In association with these richly embroidered Russian blouse 3 comes the" Russian arm bags. It is a gorgeous thing of silk, 'metal braid, laces, and the bead am broideries. Those arm bags are all sizes and shapes.

A word from another on summer blouses ■ —sensihlo, to the point, and concise. The summer blouse is indispensable. It can bo simple or dressy. For the morning tailored skirt there is studious simplicity. The timehonoured front tucks are to be seen in neat lines beneath the chin. There are handkerchief blouses in square and stripes, with hemstitched seams, and jabot fronts that are a little more frivolous. Also piquant batiste models, with high collar*, buttoned closely to the throat, and the cuffs that go almost to the knuckles. Sometimes a cravat of ■waxed ribbon of rainbow sit-ides is passed beneath the collar and caught through the. centre pleat of the blouse, or there is one of the picot-edged, chessboard ribbons making a set of butterfly bows for tho front and at the wrists. Lace is largely used. Broad lace with waved edges makes epaulet 'tid elbow bands, and the basque is usually

all lace, though there may be a little goffering of silk beneath. Sleeves are mostly long, drawn into frills at the wrists, and braceleted with ribbon. The tea biouso in net and ribbon and the embroidered lingeries blouse are both delightful. As like this, for instance. What could be more charming? The front is simple and yet elegant. The collar is more than usu-

ally attractive. And the sleeve is ideal. For space reasons this is given separately—anyway the lower portion. Back to the same authority for cotton materials. That they aro to piny a most important part in our summer attire seems very evident if one may judge by the number and variety of fabrics shown —that is, always supposing, of course, that Nature will be kind, and will give us a bright, warm summer. It is a convenient fashion for us this year, when we aro all struggling to save the pennies we are so urgently asked to save, for cotton garments are one of the most economical forms of dress it is possible to purchase. To begin with, cotton materials are cheap—very much cheaper than even the most inexpensive silk or woollen fabrics; most of them are very durable, and they come back from the wash looking so crisp and fresh as if new. By judicious cho.ee one may make a really charming "best" dress from cotton stuffs, as well as morning skirts, tub frocks, dainty afternoon blouses, and separate skirts. For serviceable morning use there is plenty of choice in strong ginghams and zephyrs. Seme of these art; self-coloured, others are striped, whilst others, again, are patterned in plaid effects. The favourite colour effects, both in stripes and plaids, are pink and white, raspberry red and white, lavender and white, and, perhaps the most popular of all, black and white. Then there are plenty of nice piques shown. These are used for useful tennis frocks, separate skirts, and morning coats and skirts. They are obtainable in white and self colours, in hairlino stripes, and, newest of all, in plain white grounds interwoven with a coloured border design. There are also charming voiles with black, dark blue, nigger brown, or dark grey grounds patterned with delicate flower or conventional designs. These make into the most delightful dresses imaginable for women who are past their first youth.

And now tho latest word from Pan's respecting the trend. Thus: Some of the latest summer one-piece jersey dresses aro made exactly like the old-fashioned wrapper of the eighties and nineties. They even have patch pockets and long apron strings, which start from the sides. But these apron strings are not tied in the same manner as in the olden days—in front with a bow. They aro wound about tho figure several times, making two or three girdles. They finally button or tio with tasselled ends. It must not bo thought for a moment that because these new long-waisted models aro pictured here no round-waisted dresses will bo worn. Many of tho most authentic of dresses have still, despite their low boot-top length, a round waist-line that is at the natural or even a slightly-raised girdle line. The skirts of such frocks measure about three to four yards about the hem. There is no sign of a flare; the skirt falls in long, straight folds gathered loosely pleated into the belt. Loop pocket drapery is still used in these skirts, especially in tho satins and tho voile frocks. Theso loops of drapery, mado by looping the selvage edge, are often lined with a contrasting colour, when of satin or silk. If of voile, they are simply part of the drapery of an ovcrskirt, which breaks slightly tho too skimpy folds such material would otherwise have. And so another blouse —the third of the series. It again is a pretty selection. Being so clear a detailed description is unnecessary. But observe that it is on© of tho high-

waisted examples. Now high waist or low waist is determined by tho length of the skirt. A short one means a high waist and a long one a low one. It is for the balance. Stripes have even reached our veils. Tho newest veil to bo worn with a sports outfit is of white chiffon. It is striped in colour, the stripe being of pin-width, or as broad as somo of the awning stripes. The stripes can run in various directions. Circular veils which fit the hat tightly are very much in favour for sailor shapes. These aro decorated with dots, scrolls, and floral patterns.