IN FASHION'S REALM.

Otago Witness, Issue 3250, 28 June 1916, Page 60

IN FASHION'S REALM.

WEEKLY UP-TO-DATE DUESS NOTES.

By Marguerite.

If it were not for what wo know we would revel in the winter fashions as never before. They are quaint, yet still with an historical hall-mark. They are artistic because the silhouette is so perfect. I have four winter models before me at this moment, each distinct and each reminiscent of the past and the best it contained. First, there is a princes model of broadcloth. The coat section is short, with belt of self, and this is .broken in front by a descending panel from the buttoning, which, passing below, widens out and resolves with the skirt. The collar and cuffs are of white satin edged with skunk, and the belt is braided in soutache in Greek key pattern. We may picture for the supplementary features a little black velvet hat with wings of ribbon to match the dress fastened with -white enamel buckles. Ascending the scale is a dross of striped worsted. The blouse section has an open front for a vest; and the fronts of the section have rovers of black satin bordered with white cord, from a high military collar of same. Now note this: the fronts from the revers come down in pendant extensions over a black satin belt bordered with cord, and finish with tassels. The sleeve is plain. As for the skirt, it is simply a well-cut model with frontal seam and side box pleats of the slashed variety. As before, we must picture a hat—a fur with frontal satin ribbon bow, en suite with muff. The third is going to bo difficult to explain. It will bo of a soft winter material. The blouso section buttons in front from a "V," with vestoe of satin and overturning collar edged with fur; the sleeves three-quarter and belling, with buttons. A feature is a cascading peplum from a ruched belt simulation. This peplum is in points with a scrolling turn between —a very pretty fancy, though hard to describe. The skirt has kangaroo pouch sides, something like panicrs which flow into the lower part, and is edged with fur. I hare said a soft winter material. Suppose we select a mouse-grey chiffon velvet with black fox. and impose for the_ hat a Tarn with a fur band. Still ascending, there is the fourth. It is a combination, apropos

which I may say that never has the combination of fabrics lent itself so much to the utilisation of scraps. First, there is a coatee, fitting the figure like a tailored waist. Around a high belt level a cord comes so that it divided the gathered fronts from a smart extension simulating a belt, and this cord fastens under the rovers over vest in a bow with tassels, and such, note, is the only closing. The result is the belt section of the coatee opens in the form of an elongated "A." Now this coatee will bo of dark cloth or satin; the vest a mere crossing of white between the rovers, and the sleeves will bell over a white semibishop sleeve) with two cords. Now for the skirt. The silhouette is plain, but the skirt is one-third light from the waist and twothirds of the coatee material, and the connection is castellated, with scrolling braid border. We may complete this selection by picturing a hat of velvet to complete the coatee, topped with a fur to complexion the combination.

ino hat is much. Having in mv last Jooiv-ed ahead a bit, T shall come back to the present. Those four models suggest what should be worn for a perfect en

semble. Here is a wing hat—a dainty little model in black velvet, something like a man's smoking' cap, but higher and of curved contour. Perched in front is a bird of the sea, as though soaring in one of its endless turns, but curbed the inclination. The dove is the bird of peace. Fringed and tasselled mufflers of vividly striped wool and silk are among the decided neckwear novelties of the season. These are worn around the throat with motoring coats and outing suits. The brightly coloured v.'ool mufflers are especially practical and chic for motoring and other out-of-door sports. There are some airy scarfs on this order also, in chiffon and crepo with jewelled and mctal-tasnelled ends, or bordered with contrasting colours woven in; these are. most attractive for motoring, worn about the head and throat, and may do equally good service for evening wear as well. The vivid colours arc also used in a sort of throw scard. which is carelessly dropped from a convenient side of the hat "and wound round the throat, giving the much-needed protect : on to the skater athletic. This also has the tassel finish. I have referred to the combination of materials in relation to a model with an ornamental poplum. The illustration gives another example on probably more accept-

able linos. The design is novel as well as <>ood. That little bolero is a charming affair with its widely scalloped edge; and charming, too, is what is revealed in the opening, with its simple collar, and that pleated pPpluni from the swathed belt. The skirt repeats the combination in that flouncesection with the scrolled edge. An oversea writer speaks of the trend.

I take it, however, thai; she is a little in advance of the present with us. Still, as it is just as well to know, I annex her observations: ' The coats on all the most recent costumes are showing the figure, and the basques that go with them are snaped rather than pleated. One thing to remember just now: If you want to know whether a tendency is fashionable or rot is to think, Is it suitable to the wide skirt, and does it balance as a whole? The coat of the moment is shorter than it was, and seemingly accentuates the width of the skirt it is worn with. There is no doubt that wo are returning to the tight-fitting coat tnafc shows the figure. What one sees is a coat fitting like a camisole as far as the waist. This tightness is seen in all the new models, and in frocks it appears in a revival of the old pointed bodice—so far without boning, which has practically taken .Fans by storm. This pointed bodice will bo seen on many of the new afternoon models; but not on all. At least one famous .French dressmaker has sent over quite waistlcss one-piece gowns for the new season. V\ aists arc. however, to be seen on nearly all the attractive models, and this is nil to the advantage of anyone who is growing _ middle-aged, and whose figure is better displayed by the more recent designs than by the shapeless fullness of last season's mode!.-:.*'

speaks of the coming colour: 'lt is safe to prophesy grey in many materials as the most constant and most popular colour. Many will prefer it to the brighter colour, because it is in keeping with the spirit of the times, which does not demand any expression of loudness which might offend other people's sorrows. Many of us who have lost some near and dear one will prefer what can be graduated to almost any necessity. I see that a number of experts declare that blue will have a run. Others, again, mention red?. When doctors differ who shall agree? Grey is certain—grey stripes and grev plaids for both coats and skirts and frocks. And in all patterns it will be united with black where it is not with the contrary."

Returning- to millinery, the Chinese nolo has bcen_ curiously insistent for some time The quaint finish is given to the top of a sailor hat by a little knob. Mandarinshaped hats will have a certain vogue, and prove charming on a young and piquant face. Tricorne straw hats with various simple trimmings will be in demand, bo cause they are becoming to almost cverv typo of face. Close-fitting hats, however, will si ill be popular with wings, ribbons, and trimming ascending from the back. A tilted brim at the back is a feature of many new models, and another is a wide brim caught in front—or, rather, separated in front. This is popular with a certain type of oval face. Ribbon is much used, and a little in the way of flowers. Quaint flower and fruit motifs in eccentric colours are also shown.

Here is another wine model—wings and

wings, as though meeting in consultation. It is a smart hat —one on the stand iu a gallant company of such. The shape is simple, -with a slightly guttered brim of varying width edged with cord, and a plain clutch of velvet for the wings has the cord again, suggesting a stripe. Black-and-white effects are good in such winged models; but black and white w-here the latter is touched with grey is better —in fact, black and grey only is ideal with the model shown, the cord as fine as can be in dull red.

*Somc little oversea notes include these: " The smart have little detachable capes for wear with some of their dresses. These capes vary in size. Some are wide and with high collars at the back; others are like a Capuchin's hood; others like a large collar. They are edged with fur. Be prepared for the return of the sash—both the oido sash and the miss-is.h school sash tied at the back in a huge simple bow. . . . Pockets are on everything, anel the more

pockets one the smarter one seems to look. Some of the best houses have tho skirt a little longer and not so full. Tha lack of fullness is partly due to likely shortage of material as much as to a feci-

ing that some extremists were approaching crinoline extensions-.

The use of checks for facings is equally as .good as tartans, and not for facings alone. An absolutely plain dress may bo quite redeemed with a check used in the manner of the sketch. Were this, complete, you would observe a band at the foot of tho skirt, though euoh is not really necessary. The design is nice for another reason —those pretty tab-extensions below the belt.

Although I rarely_ touch on children's medes, they sometimes call for special notice. The wardrobe of the little daughter of tho house to-day, even though of very tender yeara, is almost a facsimile of her elders. Tho dainty dressing-gown is a modified boudoir gown in miniature. Beautiful indeed are some of these little garments. Delicate-coloured and flowered silks lined with eiderdown, kimono sleeves, frog fastenings at front are in the most expensive category. Next tho plain-quilted variety, self colours in all shades, large but-

tons. Cosy knitted kinds are not to bo despised, for they have attained a marked finish. There was a time when any warm material sufficed for Madge's or baby » " home-made" wrapper. Now the ready mado appeals so strongly to the head of th••> nursery that few think of making them. In the"old days we employed "a competent nurse and needlewoman,' whoso duty it was to assist with tho nursery sewing But we have changed with the times, and the qualified "Norland" nurse is the outcome. She has quite enough to do with sterilising all tilings connected with. the nursery 'and studying up-to-date hygienic methods for the welfare of her charges to have much time for sewing. So tho ready ) to-wcar providers benefit thereby. Infants kimonos, jacket-length and longer, made in Japan, silk and embroidered, as arc those for adults, are the daintiest little garments imaginable. All-white or all-cream is_ not so much the vogue now for baby in winter —too cold-looking even if of warm material. All-scarlet is seasonable.