IN FASHION'S REALM

Otago Witness, Issue 3244, 17 May 1916, Page 68

IN FASHION'S REALM

WEEKLY UP-TO-DATE DRESS NOTES. By Maecjdkritb. A pojnt to be noted is that, in arrapginjf what is to be the correct silhouette for the time being, the lines of nature are more closely followed, and that the waist is now in its. proper place. This does not_ imply that any undue compression is employed—a 20in waist would be regarded as a positive deformity; and there should be very little d'fference between the measure round the hips ar. d a fcv.\ inches above, where is now the correct position for the ceinturo to be worn. This may be of the draped or cummerbund order, or the broad, flat band with which so many of the coats are still provided; but, as has been said, it is now in the conventional manner, every suggestion of the Empire style that prevailed for many seasons oemg suppressed, while the other extreme ; s equally avoided. During thy past summer our coats had bands that looked as though they would slip down over the wearer's hips, and these must now be lifted and slightly tightened. Some of the coats for late autumn and early winter wear are made without bands, and are of the simplest redingote cut, open in front with only narrow revers, close-fit-ting sleeves, with or without cuffs, according to fancy, and large pocket flaps on either side of the skirt. They arc very graceful-looking, whether made in velvet or cloth, and may be of a different colour and material from the accompanying dress, or form part of a suit. There is nothing- particularly new in these coats; but the latest style of fur collars gives them a decidedly chic appearance. No doubt the possessors of really valuable furs will be content this winter to wear their sables and silver fox stoles just as they are; but the new Russian collar, even though made of far less costly skins, will satisfy the ambition of everyone who would be in the forefront of fashion. Very cleverly contrived are these collars, and, though the tendency is to exaggerate the height, they are most becoming, the advantage of being collapsible, a. slignt pull on each side making them lie quite flat on the shoulders. This obviates the necessity of removing the collarette at a theatre or when going anywhere to tea or call." In the model you have a very pretty blouse treatment, though as part and parcel of costume. I selected it mainly for the feature which the exigencies of space have compelled me to break. This is the satchel pocket. As you will see, it appears to hang

from under the belt, the depth being what you please. By noting the little circular panel vou will see how it may be carried down for a sharp angle, though probably a rounded corner would be more in conformity with tho interior border line. At the same time as this blouse is of the costume, it may be taken as a separate over practically any of the smart tailored skirts of the present moment. A London writer says: —"As regards skirts, pleats of various widths prevail; but, contrary to expectation, there is no increase in tho fullness. For absolute convenience in walking, the regular kilt with even pleats set into' a corselet band is perfection; but for those who consider it rather monotonous and conventional, a pattern with tablier front trimmed with bands of braid, the rest of the skirt pleated in wide folds, is a pleasing novelty. A very pretty model in pale brown oloth had a broad band of soutache braiding all round the middlethat is to sav, just above the knees, the short sac bolero' being trimmed with the

same, and worn over a blouse of the sama colour. Braiding is much us:d; but the very smartest ot ail decorations for winter dresses is hand embroidery in cither wool or silk. This appears on corners of collars in many of the newest tailor suits, and the more elaborate indoor dresses have the armholes of the outer bodice effectively embellished in this way. There seems little* chance of skirts being any longer. Even those made for evening wear, and the elaborate tea gown (which is the accepted dinner dress in smart circles) —all these are 2in or 3in off the ground. A very few are making an effort to keep to a slight train; but they arc in the minority. It has been said that when trains are revived thev will be like thoeo worn at court, quite apart from the dress, and, of course, more moderate in regard to length than the four yards of encumbrance exacted by custom. But it is safe to think that these innovations will not make more than a tentative appearance until the country is once more at peace. Dress bodices are receiving a large amount of consideration, with the result that all save those of abnormal form and dimensions ought to look well. For slight, tall figures the jerkin, laced under the arms and worn over a rather close-fitting blouse or sleeved chemisette, is always becoming, and a really charming specimen of this style was made of dark blue serge, the skirt fully pleated all round, and the jerkin braided in a bold, flowing pattern with soutache. The under bodice was of soft ivory silk; but the dressmaker is to supply in addition one of amber-coloured satin and another of crimson. These are bodices fitting almost tightly at the back, with side pieces that drape most becomingly over the bust; and variations of the bretelle or wide straps fastening on the shoulder, crossmg in front, and disappearing beneath the wide wa:st-band, can be very smart and becoming. It is probably that high, tight collar bands, with ears or wing* at the side, will be general before long. At present, however, necks of bodices are slightly open. The illustration is of a model that combines black chiffon velvet and black chiffon. It is a smart afternoon selection, which shows a blouse shirred in at waist-line to form a peplum that may be straight or scalloped at the bottom. It is worn with a two-piece skirt of black chiffon velvet,

over which is arranged a flaring tunic of chiffon banded in velvet. The tunic may be draped slightly in front if desired. The blouse is cut down in front to show an under-section of white satin buttoning at the centre to the top of the standing collar, or cut in a V and finished with a shawl or pointed collar. The flaring over-sleeves and gathered under-sleeves may be replaced* by plain sleeves. I seldom say anything relating to juvenile styles. I'll endeavour to atone in part with this and the next paragraph. There is something- very cozy and intimate about the discussion—mother and young daughter—of the latter's winter dresses. With an understanding of child psychology, _which takes account of the imitative desire, the designers of the winter styles have used for the children adaptations of many of the features of mother's and elder sister's gowns. For practical school dresses there is a multiplicity of pretty suspender modes. The skirts, pleated, gathered, or rippled, are to be worn with separate blouses, which can be changed as often as necessary. The jumper and boleros share honours with the suspender dress. The sailor styles are always popular, but this year they have a rival in the smock. For everyday dresses, gingham, chambray, pique, linen, cotton, poplin, Japenese crepe, cotton Bedford cord, galatea, and cotton garberdine lead the wash materials. Serge is effective combined with plaid or checked woollens; prunella and cashmere_ are among the best of the heavier materials. Party frocks for the juvenile social experience are most important matters to the prospective wearer and a delight to the maker. This season the Empire waistline is very popular, and there are pretty lace-trimmed boleros for simple dresses. A pleasant variety of skirts has come also, many of them from France, and the youthful enthusiast, assisted by maternal judgment, will find her heart's desire, either an accordion-pleated model, or a graceful ripple skirt which may be single or double, or a skirt with two or three straight-edged flounces. Upon the design chosen depends the material, for crisp tulle is especially adapted to a dress with fullness and gathers, and lace or embroidery flouncings or bordered materials for the dress, w'hich is to have a skirt in several straight-edged sections. Net, chiffon, and point d'esprit, taffeta, flowered silks, and crepe de chine are also good, and cotton voile, cotton crepe, handkerchief linen, lawn, silk mull, organdie swiss, and batiste

deservedly have many followers. Taffeta, striped and check silks, crepe de chine and silk faille, gros de Londrcs, and silk poplin make useful afternoon dresses. Now- that the cold weather has set m thought must be given to the coats which will enable the email daughter to be outdoors almost as much in winter as in summer. The decision in regard to winter coats is of real importance, since most girls have fewer changes in coats than in dresses. In the new coats one sees a reflection of the latest ideas m belts, collars, and capes. The coats, on the whole, have simple lines. Most of the models may be made with either the high or open neck. Many have convertible collars, or they mav_ have a high stitched collar with a very military appearance. Braid trimming may be used if a continuance of tho military note is desired. With some there is a removable shield, which is a splendid arrangement, because it provides for the very cold days s and may be removed at the balmy periods which make their intermittent appearance each winter. "Belts are shown in such an amazing variety of designs «-hat they arc sure to please juvenile fancy. There are straightstitched belts, belts of the coat material, "which arc supplemented in front by silk sash ends, silk sashes which completely encircle the waist, and half-way belts. For the various models of coats there are many suitable materials—some new and some standard favourites. Of course, upon one's particular climate depends the choice of materials and styles as well; but this season fabric-makers have provided splendid materials for the variety of climates and for the variety of designs. No girl will shiver in a plush, fur cloth, heavy serge, or garberdinc cont, and none can long for a dressier coat than one of these attractive styles developed in velvet, facecloth, or wool velvet. The coat which suggests a youthful highwayman is effective in facecloth, wool velvet, velvet, plush, corduroy, velveteen, army cloth, Cheviot, serge, and garberdinc. ■For the coat on Norfolk lines mixtures are good, and also fancy suitings—chocks, tweeds, homespun, corduroy, cheviot, and whipcords. And for the dressy coat —which may be one of the models—made with a yoke or a simple ftylo belted at Empire or lower waistline, facecloth or velvet, is especially pretty, and also plush, wool velvet, and soft serge. For the very small girl silk Bedford cord, faille, and silk poplin well interlined make sweet coats. This is something simple. Puzzled between three dresses combining light and dark, I finally chose this. What is omitted may be imagined—a skirt, in fact, laid in pleats stitched down for a suitable distance, and then given their natural freedom. Tho sketch hardly dors justice to the idea—a shirt waist laid with pleats in front in

the style of a man's shirt of Jong ago, with a very nice collar and a row of pearl buttons from neck to waist. The brace effect is the feature, this coming down and fastening on a belt of equal width, all of the skirt material. It is a business-like selection for business uses by those whose business it is to devote most of their waking hours to business, or its equivalent. A word or two on home millinery. A smart tailored hat covered with military plush, dainty wing and corded ribbon finishes, will'please. A practical toque for motoring or sports wear is developed in black and cream suede cloth, trimmed suede strap and tassel. A new idea for cord and tassel trimming is arranged through the brim of a large sailor shape covered with veluto. Velvet-covered fruit, in the form of plums, cherries, small apples, or oranges, make a smart trimming on the new soft felt shapes. White grapes figure on th'e autumn millinery, also white foliage, mostly mounted on velvet ribbon bands. Bands of velvet ribbon embroidered with large spots in thick'silk of a contrasting shade make smart trimmings for the soft-brimmed black velvet models. Of Welsh inspiration, the high crown is sometimes banded with narrow velvet ribbon. Little steel buttons fasten off each band in centre-front, with a prettily-arranged feather for trimming. The latest shape for autumn wear is a crown and outside brim covered with hatter's plush, under brim with soft white kid. One of the new felt shapes for the coming season has a decided leaning to the cowboy shape, and may be made in rough beaver and velour or veluto. The pork-pie hat and the artistic biretta cap made in velvet are among the smartest novelties for the season. Feathers and manufactured feather mounts are worn; but they always remain exclusive on account of the high price. Exceedingly chic are the clipped ostrich pompons, and they are very useful wear. Wings, small and large, and padded feather bandeaux are also among the new trimmings. Ribbon trimmings are much used for trimming the between-scason models, picot edge, moire, glace, and satin being the most popular makes. Coque feathers as mounts are arranged into fascinating trimmings for

Telvat ant? felt model*. Veluto, which is a fine imitation of real silk velvet, is much used for millinery. It is an ideal material, eo soft, light, and rich in effect, although Quite inexpensive. And for a summary: Velvet is the leading fabric for millinery. Simplicity is the keynote as to trimmings. Wide-brimmed hats are bent here and there to suit tho -wearer. Faille ribbon, thick

silk cords, and ostrich novelties are used. Black hats take the lead. Fancy ornaments of beads, jet daggers, and feather pompons are new.

Two pretty brace effects arc given in this illustration. One is of rather conspicuous character, the other sedate. The former is enclosed in a border —a brace of skirt complexion with a remarkably deep corselet belt, the brace being enhanced with an oval buckle, with frill above and natural gathering below. The other is a simple brace over patterned blouse. It passes under the belt, tabs, and in association I have traced the outline of a very pretty hip yoke.