EXPLORING THE HAAST RIVER IN 1865.

Otago Witness, Issue 3239, 12 April 1916, Page 77

EXPLORING THE HAAST RIVER IN 1865.

By Gf.o. M. Hassing. Night wanes, the vapours round the mountains curled Melt into morn, and light awakes the world. In the summer of 1860 the Makarora Valley at the head of Lake Wanaka was a terra incognita; but in August of that year, in company with Mr H. S. Thomson, of West Wanaka, I set out to examine the pine forest located some seven miles up the valley. In a small dinghy, with a pair of manuka oars, we worked our way laboriously up to the head of the lake. Here we found the Hat some live or six miles wide, extending from the mountains on the east and west, but narrowing as it continued northward for a distance of 20 miles up to the Haast Pass. The Makarora Valley was at that period covered by an entangled, impenetrable mass of fern trees and flax, growing to a height of Bft to 10ft, and the ground a jungle of dried and decayed vegetation, over which it was utterly impossible to make any headway. The only access to the bush was by following the river beaches and fording the river whenever obstructions presented them.elves. To getover the difficulty in our attempt to reach the bush we started a fire at the head of the lake. This soon develop&d into one unbroken, seething ocean oi flame from hillside to hillside, and, fanned by a southerly wind, it raged for three days and nights, travelling up the valley 20 miles. It was a terrific blaze that levelled everything in its course, and disclosed the charred remains of an old Maori pa near the bush, the old Maori Kaika Paekae (the place of abundant food). This great fire transformed the appearance of the country, so that in March, 1865,- when the late William Docherty and I started on our exploring trip by way of Lake Wanaka, the Makarora Valley presented a beautiful carpet of luxuriant grass, over which it was a pleasure to travel. THE START was made from Makarora. We took with us a pack-horse carrying a hundredweight, chiefly oatmeal and salt, also a gun and plenty of ammuntion, and my faithful retriever dog Spriggins. We travelled up the valley over fine grass country till we entered the bridle-track leading up to the saddle or pass, which forms a complete break in the dividing range. It is a low terrace or plateau about 500 ft high and four or five miles square, the mountains en either side rising abruptly to a height of 50C01t. It forms the most remarkable break anywhere in the Southern Alps. Here we entered the birch forest, perfectly open, and after travelling a distance of five or six miles, during which we crossed the Fish Stream (a tributary of the Makaroa) three times, we found ourselves on tue edge of a low terrace overlooking the two small streams which form the head waters of the Haast River.

We had a rather awkward job in building a temporary stage to get our horse out of the bed of tM Fish River, the banks being some 12ft high and vertical. Though very risky, we managed it all right. We followed the Haast down about eight miles over good river-bed, travelling to where a gorge brought us up. Here we turned adrift the horse, which found its way back to Makarora, while we shouldered our swags through the gorge, a distance of 10 miles over very rough scrambling', to the junction of the Burke River, which enters from the south, and where we made our depot. Half-way through the gorge the Wills River joins from the north. A NARROW SQUEAK. We had to make three journeys back and forwards through the gorge, following the south side of the river. On one of these journeys a terrible thunderstorm came on while Ave were in the centre of the gorge, so we took temporary refuge in a natural cave running a considerable distance into the rocky side of the hill just above the river. The floor of the cave rose gradually, and we both went to the end, some 30'y nrcls from tne moutn - After remaining there about half an hour investigating, we got the surprise of our lives on retracing our steps to the mouth, where Ave found that the river had risen fully 3ft above the entrance to the cave, and was roaring down with terrific force, almost cutting off our only possible chance of escape'by a narrow and dangerous ledge. We were not sloav in scrambling out, and our escape AA'as certainly miraculous, as had Ave remained another 15 minutes before discovering the state of affairs, Ave should certainly have been droAvned like rats in a hole, for that afternoon the river rose 30ft in the gorge. A NIGHT SURPRISE. Our first object Avas to explore the Burke up to the tAvin peaks Pollux and Castor, from whence it takes its source. After spending a day in forming a camp and in preparation, we turned in and slept soundly until suddenly awakened by a most unearthly roar, resembling that of a donkey in distress. Docherty sprang up and seized a tomahawk, Avhile I collared the gun, and Ave rushed out of the tent in pitch darkness. Spriggins kept silent but alert, and at the next roar made a spring and seized the disturber, a large fat kakapo. Though Ave had seen a. stuffed one, neither of us had ever met one in his native haunts, and Ave had no idea that a bird could possibly utter such an appalling, nerve-splitting yell. Of course, Ave cooked that fellow for breakfast, and found him equal in flavour to a prime turkey. The Burke winds its way northward through mountains clothed in splendid open birch forest. We prospected several miles up from its junction with the Haast, but found no trace of gold. Wo next explored and prospected the Haast down toAvards the sea, keeping on the south side of the river, as all its largo tribu-

txries—the Clark, Cascade, and Thomas—enter from the north. The bush simply teemed with game, such as kiwis, kakapos, wekas, pigeons, and kakas, while the climate is both milder and drier than that of Hokitika or Grey districts. The scenery is indescribable in its beauty. Taking a southerly view from the Burke junction down the Haast Valley and up the Clark River, with Mount Cook in the distant background, is undoubtedly the most sublime I ever beheld in this or

any other part of the world. To describe such a glorious panorama is impossible. To be at all realised it must be seen. A NIGHT ADVENTURE.

On prospecting down the Haast, wereached within seven miles of the sea, where the bush on either bank formed a complete jungle, so we were 'obliged to pitch our camp for the night on the river bed. In the middle of a dark night I was awakened by Docherty. who had been aroused by the wash of the river close to the tent. On going outside we found the river, backed up by the rising tide, surrounding our tent on every side, and still rising fast. Though pitch dark, there was not a moment to be lost. We hurriedly struck our camp, rolled up the tent, fly, and swags, which we tied at the back of our necks; plunged into the river, and swam for the south bank, where we landed safely but exhausted. Luckily our matches, which we kept in a soda-water bottle securely corked, were dry. and Ave succeeded after much trial and perseverance in lighting a fire. It took a week of hard scramble and fording flooded rivers to return to the Clark. Here, after penetrating a belt of forest, we discovered a magnificent area of open grass land, some 10.000 acres, the largestarea of open country on the-West Coast. This we decided to apply for as a run. SNOWED IN. After fully reconnoitring and taking the bearings of the grass country, we continued our prospecting up the Clark towards its source. Though we came across traces of fine gold in different places, there was nothing- struck that was very encouraging. Noticing a break or saddle in the coast range, we decided to cross and make for the West Coast diggings by way of the Cook or the Paringa River. It was a- fine evening in June when we crossed this saddle in the range, and beheld a mountain plateau with a lagoon in the centre and apparently another pass in the distance leading to the coast. We did not take the compass bearing of this saddle, but made for the lagoon, where we camped. During that night it came on a blinding snow storm, which continued without intermission for 48 hours. Just the top of the tent was visible when the snow ceased. Then intense frost set in, so that we could walk firmly. on the top of three feet of snow without breaking through. During the three days Ave Avere obliged to camp here Ave subsisted on raw oatmeal and salt. One little mountain wren f.eAV into our tent, swallowed the string of the oatmeal bag. then rolled over dead. "This is an ill omen." explained Docherty. When the weather cleared, Ave had to leave our tent and fly. Avhich were frozen as hard as iron and buried in frozen snow. We made for the pass, which Ave had hoped AA'ould lead us down to the coast; but when Ave got to the edge Ave found an almost A r ertical Avail several hundred feet high, more or less covered with scrub and vegetation. To reach the bottom of this was a wonderful scramble; but Ave managed it safely. After our three days' spell in the 'snow, how Ave did enjoy a roaring drift-wood fire and a half dozen roasted wood-hens! A DISAPPOINTING SURPRISE. The following evening. Avhilo making our way doAvn the creek, Ave came to what aooeared a recent camping place at its junction Vith a river. We noticed a recent fireplace with kiwi and kakapo feathers scattered about. Then an indescribable feeling of stupid surprise and numbness seized both of us. We gazed at each other as we recognised the spotas our own camping ground of a week previously. The mvstery then dawned upon us. Instead of the pass leading us to the coast, it simplv lead us round the same mountain peal- through another pass and stream down to the very snot Ave had occupied more than a .week previously. However. Ave did not turn back again, but trashed on for our depot at the Burke. Here Ave made up our mind to retrace our steps bv wav of the Haast Pass, which we crossed on June 21. after having been on our journey 90 days, during which time we never saw trace of a human being. I need scarcely add that Ave had thrilling adventures and hairbreadth escapes on that eventful journey. The result of our explorations were the discovers of a large area of excellent grazing country and a correct geogranhical knowledge of the tributaries of the Haast Biver. We also ascertained that gold evistod in several of its tri butar : though Ave did not deem it pavable then owing to the difficulty in getting provisions at that time. The trip was also the means of drawing attention to the auriferous nature of that part of West-laud and. in the following year, enabled me to -prospect and onen out a pavable claim which brought "'bout a rush to the beach between the Haast and Okuru Rivers, where some 700 or 800 miners did fairlv well. Mv effort in connection with the run proved a losing failure: but someone else reaped the benefit of it. My adventurous companion, W. Docherty, _ after a strenuous life spent in nioneering and exploring, passed peacefullv to a better world 20 years ago in Preservation Inlet.