THE GARDEN.

Otago Witness, Issue 3215, 27 October 1915, Page 8

THE GARDEN.

OPERATIONS FOR THE WEEK. KITOHEN GARDEN—Cucumbers in frames arc now coming into fruit if the conditions necessary for their successful culture have been secured—a "warm, moist atmosphere, partial shade, and careful ventilation. It- is also necessary to keep the loaves from touching the glass, as they get the condensed moisture which cannot be removed by ventilation, and they consequently soon decay. The plants are often put in too high, under the impression that the nearer they can be got to the glass tho bettor they will fruit. Crop tho plants moderately, and stop and thin out superfluous growths, which will cause them to last much longer. The necessary preparations for vegetable marrows and tomatoes should be advanced off prior to planting out. The superiority of sowing such plants as onions, carrots, turnips, etc., in drills is generally admitted, and tho extra labour is amply compensated for by tho case with which they can bo subsequently thinned. Run the hoe lightly between tho rows, and in tho case of turnips, parsnips, and boot, cross hoe between the bunches, which can afterwards be filled out by hand. Sow peas for succession—Vcitch’s Perfection and Lexton’s Omega are strong growers, and seldom fail to crop. Carter’s Telephone is also highly spoken of. FLOWER GARDEN. —Constant attention must bo given to lawns to get them into good trim for the season. Hollyhocks are now growing- rapidly. Lot them have a rich top-dix?ssing, remove all tho shoots but the strongest, and tie into a stake as they advance. The host time to sow hollyhocks is at tho end of November, as they form strong plants which do not attempt to flower like those sown earlier. Weak Elants of carnation and picotee should not e allowed to bloom, so that they may form strong “grass” for next season. Many of the old varieties have become weak, and require cutting down to keep them alive. Plant gladioli for autumn blooming, putting tho oorms 4in

deep in rich soil. Choice sorts for exhibition should not be plantedl till the first week in November. Repot dahlias as they form roots. Established plants may be placed in cold frames, giving plenty of air during- the day and covering up closely at night for the next fortnight. All the preparatory work for bedding-out must be done, the beds dug, and the edgings planted. GREENHOUSE. The treatment of plants under glass is now changed, and in' stead of retarding them the chief object now is to obtain as quick a growth as possible, Where new climbers have been planted, it is often desirable to push them into vigorous growth now, to enable them to ripen off their wood for next season. The house should therefore be kept close, air being admitted only between 11 a.m. and 3 p.m. If there are any things in bloom, the syringe cannot bo used much, but the requisite moisture can be kept up by pouring water on the floors and stages. What can bo more graceful in its effects than a well-grown fuchsia, with its cluster of blooms drooping like so many pendants of jewellery. This flower is equally suitable for greenhouse or open ground. To grow fuchsias successfully, they must grow quickly. .For furnishing the greenhouse, it is a good plan to have a succession struck every year, for after the second year they are best replaced with the previous year’s plant. There may be exceptions in which you _ require large and old plants for a special object, as the furnishing of a large and lofty conservatory, etc., or for com at an exhibition. There are other modes in which the fuchsias may be cultivated as a decorative plant besides growing in pots. The pyramidal stylo, no doubt, is the best, as the majority of the varieties are naturally inclined to that stylo of growth, though they vary in constitution; and. further than that, in this system of training, the plant and flowers are seen under the most , favourable circumstances Pelargoniums for exhibition require constant attention to keep the foliage in perfect health, so tie out and train as needful; give plenty of air to strong plants and manure water, rather weak at first, increasing the strength of it as the plants develop—every five or six days. The pelargonium is a very accommodating plant in respect to soil, for it will thrive in any kind that partakes of a loamy texture, provided the pot is well drained. It does exceedingly well in the following mixture; One-half or more of soft or mellow loam, say the top-soil of a pasture that has been stored some time previous to use, the remainder to be equal portions of decayed cowdung, leaf _ mould, _ and river sand. Camellias making their growth require liberal supplies of water. The plants should be kept away from the currents of air, as the young foliage is susceptible to the slightest difference of temperature. Calceolarias coming into bloom should be kept rather close and watered freely until the flowers arc fully expanded.