THE GARDEN.

Otago Witness, Issue 3102, 27 August 1913, Page 12

THE GARDEN.

OPERATIONS FOR THE WEEK. FLOWER GARDEN. —Many of the move hardy annuals may be sown in the open ground at the end of this month. Should, however, the weather set in wet or frosty it is better to exercise a little patience, or failure will result. Nothing is gained by. sowing too early, as the growth of young seedlings is always more saisfactory when the soil is warm and dry. Dutch bulbs are now beginning to throw up their flower spikes, and careful attention must bo paid to traps for slugs, as they are particular fond of hyacinths, and soon spoil a number in the young state. Divide and replant border of violets, choosing young, wellrooted runners for the pur[>ose. All boxborders should be finished at once, and where any are to be planted now it will bo necessary to water frequently during the summer, as they will not bo established before the dry weather sets in. Lateplanted roses should be .''irmccl, cutting back to within a few vy of the last season’s growth. Amateurs often fail in not pruning hard enough, but if fine blooms are needed you must cut low. Those fine decorative plants —camellias—should be more freely planted out than is the case. Most of the varieties do far better planted out in the liorders than they generally do if kept in pots. They are perfectly hardy,

and apart from their lovely blooms the plants themselves as shrubs are very ornamental, as they grow so much more vigorously than under pot-culture. They can also be cut back freely and kept to any size, and if strongly-established plants arc procured now and planted out during the present or succeeding month, they will soon become established. KITCHEN GARDEN.—A hot-bed should be made up with some fresh stable manure, and, after allowing it to stand for a few days so that part of the strong heat can pass off, a few prepared boxes should be filled with a light soil, in which a sowing of celery or tomato should be made, and placed upon the top of the bed. A little finely-sifted soil should cover the seed, and a glazed sash to cover over the whole. If the latter is not available a covering of palings placed close together will be found to answer the purpose equally as well, providing that these are removed as soon as the seeds appear above ground, when they should bo uncovered all day, but must bo protected at night for some time to come. Early-sown tomatoes must be pricked out into boxes or pots, allowing each plant plenty of room to develop, as nil the advantage of sowing these seeds early is lost if the plants are crowded together. After pricking out they will require to be kept warm for a few days, after which they should bo fully exposed to the sun and air during warm days, covering up again at night. Herbs of all kinds may bo planted out during the present month. Where old plants are growing they should bo taken up and divided, as young and vigorous plants give the b st results. Parsley, sage, and marjoram are best raised from seed at this time of the year. Potato-planting should now be grmeral in the garden, for if planted now the potatoes should run scarcely any risk from being damaged by spring frosts unless they continue very late. Lettuces, onions, radish, etc., should bo sown in succession for salading. The firstnamed should be planted out in prepared beds at regular intervals in order to keep up the supply, planting a few at each planting rather than planting out a large number at longer intervals, in which case a great number arc often spoiled by running to seed before they can bs used. Cabbage and cauliflower, as soon as large enough, should bo heeled up. They should be kept advancing by keeping the surface free from weeds and loose, so as to admit the air and warmth of the sun to the roots.

FRUIT GARDEN. —Planting for the season of all kinds of fruit should be completed as quickly as possible now, for with tha month of September the growth of all kinds of trees, except, perhaps, apples, is quite active, and when planted thus late in the season, in the event of a dry season the trees cannot be expected to make a satisfactory growth unless mulching and watering are resorted to. Trees which have been p’antod a few weeks should now have a slight cutting back. Any small fruits not yet pruned should receive immediate attention, and the borders or beds in which they are growing should be cleaned off, manure given, and properly dug without injury to the roots. Strawberry beds should bo kept perfectly free from weeds, and the hoe frequently used between the rows to keep the soil in an open, healthy condition. Grafting of stone fruits should receive the first attention, as those start into growth early. The grafts should bo straight, healthy, cleanly-grown shgots of last year. They may be from 6in to lOin long. There are many ways of grafting, but two of them are more easily done than some of the other wave. One of these is termed “saddle grafting,” and is practised when the stock is of moderate dimensions. If the stock and graft—or, more appropriately speaking, the scion—are of the came thickness the stock is cut into the form of an A, and slit the scion up the middle, so adapted that it will be seated across or ride upon the former. Let the bark of each fit as closely together as possible, bind the two closely with worsted, then cover them up with a piece of two-parts clay and one of cow manure well mixed together. Press and squeeze this on till it adheres firmly, as it must retain the moisture about the cut parts, and this should remain on til! growth lias commenced, when it mav be left till it falls off. Do not let any shoots grow on the. stem, and if the weather is very drv before growth begins moisten the clay. This form of grafting is very suitable- for young seedling trees. When the trees are large, with many branches, cat all these off to 6!n or Bin from .the main stem; then graft on to each of the stems. The kind of grafting to practise in this case is called crown or rind-grafting. Cut the lower end of the graft in a sloping direction. Slit down the old bark on the cut stem 2in or so from the top. Open it a little on each side. Insert the thin end of the graft, and bandage and clay it over. If the stems arc largo two or throe grafts may be put on each; four are often introduced. This form of grafting is much practised in orchards. Everything should bo done with a very sharp knife. The lower buds should be carefully cut from each graft so far as the clay will cover. From the end of August is a suitable time for grafting, as the sap is rising and the bark in a condition to facilitate uniting.

GREENHOUSE AND FRAMES.—As growth extend? more room must, be given to a.M soft-wooded plants to admit of a free circulation of air aho.it thorn. Pelargoniums must bo stopped, as the shoots extend, to keep the plants dwarf and bushy. Plants of cineraria and calceolaria, when the pots of the early-floweitig batch are becoming full of roots, should be supplied with liquid manure every other watering. Petunias, heliotrope, etc., should now be gradually hardened off to fit them for planting out during September. Ventilation will need careful attention as no hard-and-fast rule can bo laid down during the next few months; but on all favourable days cJrMt air freely. THE VINERY.—If not already done all vines should be pruned at once. When'the pruning is left until the sap begins to,move the vines suffer severely from bleeding.