IN FASHION’S REALM.

Otago Witness, Issue 3100, 13 August 1913, Page 65

IN FASHION’S REALM.

WEEKLY UP-TO-DATE DRESS NOTES

By Marguerite

As tin 1 season develops the ostrich feather will manifest itself in its usual splendid way. I opine that we .shall never have a genial season that will relegate rite plume of plumes into the background. For one excellent reason--ostrich-fanning is 100 important an industry to allow those who direct things to hazard its stability. Incidentally, in their natural stale plumes from the mala bird are black and while; those from hi* mate are grey and drab. You see, even the birds approve the seasonal fashion note—a combination of two shades. Ribbons will have a more pronounced endorsement than over before. This is because of the beauty of the decorative sorts. The art of ribbonmaking has been brought to a pitch beyond which it is impossible to go. The millinery ribbons for the now season are exquisite. It is wonderful what you can do with ribbon. New kinds embrace ribbons of satin and silk finish in combination, laco inset borders, ribbons of silk with velvet design*

j;i relict, and olner beautuul mneits. As toe turban arrangements are lavoured, we are ame to exploit any of tno cno.ce Oriental effects. bjtnpcd ribbons a.ways lend tnemselvcs to iw.sis' and swath.ngs. The influence of many periods will be seen in mouish millinery —mens Irom this time and that back, indeed, to tno Tudors The early snapes embrace many small kinds, but, rs 1 have previously said, their reign will bo brief. The two-shade combination in attire generally will bo reflected in its most important accessory. What the pediment is to tho superstructure, the flower to tiic plant, etc., ad infinitum, the hat is to tho costume. Rough basket-weave straw crowns will bo associated with silk-taced brims, the latter saucering where they arc not an actual roil. Negligent brims will feature some shapes, even others. A new French sailor shape which is bound to bo favoured, has the brim at an angle of nearly 45dcg, and nearly flat on the face. This brim, the under-part being the exhibited one. will bo straw or silk. Rater on it will bo silk to half its width, and probably a series of dainty outstanding pleats for tho other half. A feature of tho plain type will be an immense pompom set on tho side, more high than low. As already said, one of the most fashionable oi spring shapes will arch front and back. It is a small hat, and worn more or less at an angle. 1 expect that it entails a very carefully-arranged coiffure. _-\s

th - season advances trimmings will move to tho rear. The destined largo hat will be very largo. Brims will bo swathed in sec-

tions —a kind of semi-turban effect which must lie illustrated to bo understood. Stately plumes will decorate some elegant examples with a back setting. The omnipotent rose will load in floral trimming. Baby wreaths will appear on some of tho early shapes, and such may bo roses, geraniums, marguerites, and other kinds. The rustic arrangement where tho largo rose is employed in negligent though artistic form is more distant than immediate. The hat of the illustration carries tho winter idea in spring form. Many of the new hats will partake of this shape and complexion. Small beehive crowns will vary with less-rounded ones in basket-like weaves. Brims, as already said, are silk-faced. Tho trimming may consiet of two ribbon loop

ends as long as shown and similarly placed, such of the crown shade or the brim. Hero is where you will reap the advantage of the elegant ribbons which have been designed for our selection and pleasure. Incidentally observe the collar, and take a cursory glance

at that of tho costume. The two illustrate the dominant styles if we allow for some variation of treatment.

I should like to speak of collars with some emphasis. All modish collars will he lew in fact, tlic high collar has been relegated to obscurity. Observe the shape with hat and extend it on the shoulder. In dresses the connecting link will be a trim little bow with short cascading jabot; or it may be that this typo of collar will go with a shirt-front effect, both in light contrast to the material of the costume. When so the cuff will be in sympathy. Take a collar as wide as from shoulder seam to shoulder seam, open iu “V ” form, and straight across in front from the meeting-point. Such will carry a superimposed small collar like a neck yoke—lace or embroidered. The sides of the main collar may bo ornamented with buttons and loops. Such on an opongo drees with coat effect, gained by a seam line, fronts curving away, may be an effective assistance. Accept two ruling shades—one basic for the dress, and the other to outline the collar, the coat-effect scam, and for the belt and cuffs. The round collar will bo in considerable evidence. Such may bo a frill over a shirt effect, gained by the character of the dress bodice; or it may bo a lace collar superimposed on a largo square, which will be bordered. Wo shall have, too, the low lace collar, which is raised at back—a difficult style to explain without the picture I have seen one on a draped model costume, but it was assisted by a foundation collar, front, of small square type. Collar talk begets that of neck wear. Some exquisite fancies are available, but pretty well all are for lownock dresses. As just mentioned, the low neck will rule—so much so as to justify mo in saying that summer will make the other type antiquated. Costume designs for outdoor divide into two classes, the severe or semi-tailored and the draped. The former carry forward many winter ideas—-silhouette much the same, save for more width in the skirt, high natural waist, stepped ” decorative line, buttons a great factor in ornamentation, pleats as a feature of more or less importance, and sometimes a ruling one. First, as said, the costume is hall-marked by its collar. This, however, is only one feature. dosings, real or feigned, are centre to side, and a hne of buttons right down the seam is varied by a similar treatment in single or double-row sets of three apiece, neck to knee. Pleats are arranged in the skirt at side or on both sides. A seam down the hip may be button adorned, then “ stepped ” at any distance preferred, and a pleat or two used for the rest of the

distance. In skirts which simulate a drawnbad:, apron-like—homely terms are sometimes best —pleats may carry from the curve of this, as previously illustrated. In drosses with a panel front, such may go from collar to knee level, with buttons and cords in sections, and from the knee to foot, to the width of this panel, there will be a senes of pleats, eight to a dozen. Draped costumes reveal the influence of the panicr, though it ends at that mention. The cross-over seam is gathered thrice on bodice, and thrice again on skirt, well up, and from these gathers the material senufestoons to the other side. Again, a favourite style is the one that presents, front view, the lines of an elongated “X” on the skirt with panel on the bodice. The sides of the skirt are draped into the centre of tho “ X,” where there is a brooch or bow. Tins will bo just above the knee level. The bodice section will have pleated shoulder, and half-round pleated sleeves (two _ sets _of throe each). The basic material will carry a design, but the panel of the bodice and the wedges of the elongated “X” of the skirt will be plain for the contrast. Accepting a light shade effect generally, there will be a dark silk girdle with front cross bow, same small collar front under neck frill, same again cuffs. A fancy in cuffs, by tho way, is the one cut on a pronounced slant—from nothing on tho inner to a high point,-—with a line of tiny buttons, frill to finish. Tunic effects will bo in evidence, and one before mo, which is only the simulation, is cleverly combined with a draping. This shows the acme. It is one of the most pronounced Paris successes. From tho number of designs that exploit it. I expect to sec much made of tho idea when the season is advanced enough. Though many may esteem the design a bit overdone, there is no deny-

ing its cleverness. The way one side is draped over to the other js ideal, the little trick of shortening the depth to indicate an overlap assisting. There is nothing like the picture to adorn the tale. I should have despaired of describing this mode without a drawing. The draped designs are fairly legion, and probably many would- bo preferred to the selection. However, this emphasises a coming note, which, whatever the variation, may give seasonable value to the dress. I come back to millinery. In the former illustration you have a small hat. Hero, for contrast, is a medium. One of the prettiest spring models is of tho shape shown, straw, the crown merging into the brim; this edged as indicated, undorpart in contrast, cord around crown at tho height marked, feather horizontally placed

side to back. Accept this description: white milan with flange of black velvet, narrow velvet cord or ribbon encircling crown, white ostrich attached under brim, curl over edge. Is perfumery a dress item? Occosionally, yes. Spring is as good a time as any other

fox - the mere mention. I like perfumery—in reason. Reason means that it must be good and subtle. Pungent odours are the quintessence of bad taste. lam half inclined to the opinion that there is a natural talent in the production, and that it flowers in France. Cheap perfumery is never good, as a choice extract is either hard to get, or, being got, is hard to treat. French perfumery of the best, and used slightly, , has its recommendation in that it merely suggests. The suggestion of its use should bo so elusive as to make the stranger only semi-conscious that it lias been employed. The sweetest odours of all are those we just catch and miss. The use of sachet powders with your finery 7, also with your linen, is to be commended. These powders are sold in dainty envelopes, and one does duty in a drawer for a long time. I have read somewhere or other that Queen Alexandra uses masses of rose petals for the same purpose. Also I have read, somewhere or other, a very enlightening article on the subject of utilising ycur own flower garden for a variety of purposes. Somehow no perfumes ever please like the French. The chief thing against many is their pungency. In my opinion it is condemnatory of any other virtue. Nevertheless much depends on choice. Some extracts are naturally more pronounced than others, and some have a natural refinement which the others miss. I have road that extracts may be made from coal tar. which appears like a fairy magic-box of wonders. On the other hand I note an aiticle to the effect that the war in the Balkans will materially affect the perfume industry. Bulgaria, one end, was a forest of roses. Jewellery is essentially a dress item. Something or other is necessary to complete, even if it is only 7 a tiny 7 brooch. Jewellery designs march with the times, and elegance is the ruling note. There is a style of jewellery for all ages. The ago that runs the greatest risk of making a mistake is the juvenile one—sweet 16 to 20, and even a shade over. The best judge of a young girl’s jewellery is her mother, though .her father is often a wise selector, simply because he has a man’s dislike of ornament. A y r oung girl’s jewellery should not occupy a very large box, and each piece should be simplicity itself. A wristlet watch, if dainty, is not amiss. A brooch, if small and simple, is nice. When the time comes when an carring is possible it should bo as tiny as possible. Also, in my opinion, a young girl's jewellery should bo uncostly, and jewels should be limited to a mere pearl or two. or, if a diamond, the smallest set. I don’t believe in imitation jewellery, except in certain relations. I can see no harm in a small string of small imitation pearls with an evening frock, and, where it is possible, something on tho ribbon of tho coiffure. But young people need education in this respect, and the best guide, esteemed as such or not, is always a girl’s mother-

Speaking of evening dress, I am showing you a very elegant selection. The tunic permits of a wide variety of pretty expressions. This is one which is ornamented with

a series of motifs, front and back pointed. Skirt plain save for the slight slit at side. Tho manner of the latter is given on tho right, though the slight train must be imagined. Very beautiful evening gowns are seen in our cities, shimmering effects in plenty, tho clinging mode exploited. Orientalism with all. Spring is taking the stage and winning general attention. Wo have swung round to the sun, and every day now will make a difference. Sale time clears the way where it has not already dono so, and the drapers aro as busy as bees in their congenial work of demonstrating the new season's allurements of materials and modes. Last week I touched tho former; this week I touch tho latter. I shall now amplify and adjust, perhaps hero and there correct, and otherwise endeavour while holding my mirror to what exists, to herald what is on tho horizon. Blouse wear, a very important item, will have my next attention.