HORTICULTURAL NOTES.

Otago Witness, Issue 3035, 15 May 1912, Page 12

HORTICULTURAL NOTES.

Br J. Gbbbib.

. GARDEN FRAMES. From now onwards the cold frames employed for, the protection of half-hardy plants and such as need protection require ■to. be caTofuHy watched in order to guard against damp—the worst enemy of such plants. The lights must be kept off during all fine weather, and in dry weather, even though it may be rather cold, provided there is not a keen and cutting air. Even under such circumstances the frames must not bo closed entirely, nor in -wet or damp weather, but must bo tilted up more or less to admit of a change of air. Of equa,l importance to plants is tSie provision of a dry bottom and the avoiding of spilling water within the frames during the process of watering. A damp bottom leads to dampness of the atmosphere, and confined dampness of the atmosphere is what is so fatal to plants; heno? the advantage of elevating the plants on an open platform above the floor. The plants themselves require to be frequently picked over to remove all dead or decaying leaves, and to see that the soil continues in an open, healthy state not waterlogged, nor pota and soil covered with moss. When any of the plants start into vigorous growth, as they sometimes will do, and prodiioe branches which are liable to straggle and get out of order, such branches should be topi>ed and the whole treatment should be directed to maintaining the plants stocky, sturdy, and hardy through the winter months.

THE CORK TREE: Cork is the bark of the cork oak (Querelas Gilbert, and closely resembles the evergreen oak (Qiiercus ilex). Spain, Portugal, and the South of Franco arc the countries in which it is indigenous, and there in mountainous regions it grows from 30ft to 40ft high. Tile two former countries supply the greatest portion of the cork of commerce, but supplies are also received from the South of France, the islands of Sardinia and Corsica, and the forests of Algeria. When the trees are about five years old the cork, which composes the greater part of the bark, begins to increa.>o rapidly, growing unusually large, thick, and spongy. If left on the tree it becomes cracked and so deeply fissured that, it is unfit for use. It is therefore removed before this happens, and its removal does not injure but is beneficial to the tree. If the cork is allowed to remain on its stem the tree seldom lives longer than 50 or 60 years. The removal of the bark prolongs the life of the tree to upwards.of 150 years. After the tree has attained 30 years of age its cork may be removed at intervals of six to 10 years. The first crop is generally inferior in. quality It is only when the trees are 40 or 50 years old tbat the bark is sufficiently matured for making good corks. PLANTING LILIES. A collection' of iilics should be grown in every garden. Most of them are of easj culture, growing with little or no preparation. With some growers the best results are not obtained through■ one important point not being observed. Ignorance of the matter in question might lead to a disappointing growth and flowering even though soii and situation were all that could be desired. Some lilies root from the base of the bulb only, whilo others root from tha stem, above the bulb also. These stemrooting varieties omit from the stems almost as many roots as from the base of the bulb. It is quite evident that a bulb of this sort ought to be planted deeply so thafi* the roots errited by the stem may have plenty of soil in which to root. If planted, say, 2in deep, the stem roots will hatfdlj be covered with soil, and _ consequently perish, being exposed to varying conditions of drought and moisture. The bulbs of stem-rooting lilies should be planted at least 6in below the surface soil, so that the stem roots may be able to render- that support .and nourishment to the plan necessary for

its healthy growth. Lilium aura turn, L. longiflorum, and L. speciosum, with its varieties, are examples of etsm-rooting liiies. Some of those which root from the bulb only are the Christmas lily (L. candidum), L. chalccdonicum, and L. martagon. Lily bulbs should never be kept long out of the ground, and tho sooner they are planted the better, for if kept out of the ground they quickly shrivel. In planting it is advisable to place a layer of sand at the bottom of the hole upon which to .place the bulbs, as it prevents their decaying. Generally speaking, lily bulbs aire best left undisturbed for years, so that they must be allowed plenty of room at planting time. B(JX EDGINGS. The whole art of laying down a box edging well coi.s:s»£s in lorming the ridge against which it is to be planted true, level, and hard. In preparing tho ground it is necessary that it be well-trodden down and rendered level with the surface of the intended walk. The line should then be stretched upon it, and with the spade a neat, even trench should be made, 6in or Bin deep, turning the soil out *0 the side next the walk. Against the side of this trench, which should be rather sloping, the box plants are placed, and kept steady in their place by pressing the back of the hand against them, while with the other the earth thrown out in it 6 formation is placed over the roots and against the plants, which keepa them in their proper position. In preparing the plants for planting, let them bo moderately divided and thinned out in fan form, the large and woody roots cut off so that when placed the line will appear straight,, level, and equal throughout with the green tops about lin above the soil. They should bo planted so close that there is no vacancy between them. Let a sufficient quantity of soil be placed to their roots, and beat firmly towards them with the spade, and the whole afterwards rilled up with gravel and tho walk .neatly rolled down THE ROSE GARDEN. Tnt.' planting of roses is now commencing, and we would recommend those who pretend to have a rose garden to have some form and general plan and not content themselves with merely putting a rose here and a rose there. If they can do nothing better, let them form a Bank of roses each side of their single walk by putting in dwarf-growing varieties in front, taller roses behind, with standard or pillar roses in the back row. This is a good way of forming a rose garden wilhout any pretension to novelty and with every regard to effect. Tho front or dwarf roses must bo picked for their slow growth, because many of the freely-growing varieties would ramble about in ail directions. Roses require a good soil, and when planting add to the soil some well-rotted mature, but do not ' let the manure touch the roots. Let every damaged part of the roots be cut clean off, and any straggling portions be removed. Then place the plant in tho hole, which muj»t be filled up, and by raising the plant up and down two or three times a little the soil will get underneath and between the roots, so as to allow of its being trodden oven- firmly Out well back after planting, especially standards and those that are not vigorous growers. COUSINS'S CATALOGUE. Tho general descriptive catalogue of S. Cousins, now issued, reminds us that the planting season is at hand. Carnations are a special this catalogue. • The iatest novelties imported from England and America, besides a number of varieties raised in the St. Clair Nursery, are fully described. Roses (including several novelties, dahlias, pholargoniums, delphiniums, and general nursery stock are here listed, and those who contemplate making a garden or addin,g to their collections may with advantage study its pages. The catalogue is free on application.