OUR YORKSHIRE LETTER.

Otago Witness, Issue 3030, 10 April 1912, Page 17

OUR YORKSHIRE LETTER.

(From Our Special Correspondent.) BRADFORD. February 23. THE EVOLUTION OF MERINO WOOLS. I do not know whether any reader has been impressed with the variety of merino wool that is being grown in the different countries of the world. It has become an acknowledged fact that climate and pasturage play an important part in determining the style, quality, and character of ali' v wool, and combined with good breeding, these influences are now producing a very useful stylo of merino wool. The writer was lecturing last Monday at the Bradford Technical College on the wools of South Africa, and among the numerous slides shown was one containing a sample of wool shorn in Australia in the year 1793. It may be a pretty tall statement to make, but I give it on the authority of tho Government officials in charge of tho wool department of the Technological Museum in Sydney, and I understand that the small sample came from tho first importation of Cape merino landed in that year in Sydney, the sheep being brought by Captains Waterhouse and Kent from Capetown. I could not help being struck with tho evolution that has taken place in the merino since that time. One hundred years ago the fleece of that sheep showed practically no staple whatever, and although it is called merino wool, yet there is no serration or curl in the fibre whatever. Then I showed samples shorn in the years 1800, KO2, and 1804, and the effect of tho Australian climate was really marvellous. In the short space of half a dozen years tho wool began to show both serration, curl, and quality, and became altogether different from the first importation. It is this fact which raises the question which I want briefly to discuss in my weekly letter—namely, tho evolution of merino wools. Dealing particularly with South Australian merinos, there is certainly a vast change to be seen in the raw material which is l>eing produced in that State. To an unaccustomed eye there may not bo a big difference, but to those who are spinning and manufacturing the same there is all the difference in the world. If we examine the merinos grown in the northern part of the State we find that they are of a very red colour, earthy in condition, genrally of 64's ciuality, and often somewhat tender in staple, but when the wool lias been cleared of "freehold" —i.e., mother earth—-then we have a fairly useful article. But it cannot be said that ali sections of tho trade take to these northern-grown wools, for they are somewhat deceptive. If owners would bear this fact in mind, it would often prevent, many bitter complaints being made to sellinc brokers, or while tho station-owners may thi&ik that they ought to havo had jd to Id more for their top lots, yet those who buy them regularly are well aware that they often shrink a good deal more than appears probable on tho surface. All the same, while the wool may be well grown, the spinner cannot get the same length or smallness of yarn from these northern-grown wools as he can from those produced in the south-eastern part of South Australia, Perhaps it is a little difficult to explain on paper why this is so, but it is nevertheless true. The reader may not know, but a man can spin down to a lower or thicker count when it is impossible to spin up to a finer one. this being due in tho first instance to the quality of the raw niaterial. I do not think that wools grown in the north of South Australia handle so soft and supple as those grown in the lower north and south-eastern portion of the State, and I can only attribute this to the red-earthy nature of the soil on which the sheep run, and to tho intense heat of the northern plains. The fact is very remarkable that wool grown or. red soil never yields so well as that grown upon black soil, neither will it spin, as a rule, so free and so well, although there aro some clips grown in the west of New South Wales which are noted for their quality. Still, my previous remarks apply more particularly to the stronger merinos which are grown in the northern section of South Australia. Coming lower down, say to the middle and lower north, we get a different class of material altogether— one which has probably made South Australian more renowned than any other wool grown in the State. Why? Simply because lower-north pastoralists seem to have evolved a merino whose fleece is remarkable for its length of staple and deep-combing properties. The old worsted coating days perhaps did more to popularise Scuth Australian wools than anvthing the trade has ever done, and there is a firm in Bradford whose tops have made themselves a name, and into which some large quantities of this staple are blended. On the whole these fleeces will scale up to 64's; but it is tho deep-combing property which is their outstanding feature, and it is remarkable that many firms use them to blend with shorter material in order to give length and character to the combed top. Experience has taught that these wools produce what is known as a " blobby " yarn, and if we carry them to the woven piece, the finished fabric handles full arid " foody." In askinsr a question last Monday at the Bradford Technical College, a gentleman who spoke said he has been very successful in spinning Cape wools and making them into a certain fabric which lias sold largely in South Africa. These goods had won for 'hcmselvcs a fairly good name,

the local patriotism having gone a long way with the buyers. They assured the storekeepers that the serges in question were made purely from Cape wools, and this was the prime factor in inducing purchases. The great fault of the pieces was that they were not "foody" enough, and the reason for this, as 1 pointed out, was not far to seek. The typical Cape merino wool is very fine in the hair—l should say 10 to 15 counts finer so far as spinning quality is concerned. The Cape merinos have "been so long in-bred that they are devoid, in many cases, of life and vitality, and that is one reason why during tho last six to eight years there has been such a largo importation of merino sheep from Australia. Many flocks have benefited considerably as a result of this, the clips today being better grown and a little lower in "quality, but of an altogether different staple. In other words, the introduction of tho new blood from Australia has produced a better and more bulky staple, or (to use a further simile) more lire and vitality, which means that elasticity has been "infused into the fibres. In South Australian wool coming from the middle and lower north districts these characteristics are stronjrly in evidence, and while in the opinion of many people several clips are hardly fine enough, yet they aro sound, bulky wools which always behave well in the spinning operation, and aro full of stamina and character. Users know this fact; hence tops combed out of these shafty South Australian fleeces always come up well in tho yarn and piece if a not very long length—"i.e., small yarn—is not wanted. Dealing briefly with the wools grown west of Port Augusta, we generally get a finer wool than that produced in the pre-viously-named districts, and this spins well. It always comes a good colour, is sound and fairly shafty, and with careful preparation for market there is no reason why the raw material should not always meet with an excellent demand at the hands of the various sections of tho trade. They say that confession is good for the soul, and I must admit that I am not so familiar with the stations on the west side of South Australia as I am with the other districts, but the features distinctly in evidence in these wools aro good and sound, and on the whole-'satisfactory. Turning more particularly to the wool grown in the south-eastern portion of tho State, we have here undoubtedly the best raw material furnished by South Australia. I have repeatedly said that they exhibit a West Victorian character, and on that account are probably tho most popular wools grown in that State. We get hero a very superior handle, the fleeces being soft and very supple, while the quality usually runs from 64's to 70's. But as one looks at the staple it presents an altogether different appearance, and it is this fact which impresses itself upon those who aro seeking a tip-top article. The reason why 15d to 16d is not realised for the southeastern wools is because they are not so light in condition as those grown in tho Skiptou district of West Victoria, but so far as spinning property goes they are equally as good, and quite as soft and silklike in handle. A little better classing might often be done to advantage in tins district, particularly among the small station-owners. But so far as the wool itself is concerned it is particularly good, and is a popular favourite with practically all sections of the trade. THE, THREATENED COAL STRIKE. Turning to consider wool conditions, I am unable to report any decided improvement, and can only say that things are no worso than they were a week ago. To a very large extent the threatened coal strike dominates the entire position, and everybody connected with the industry is greatly concerned to know what is going to happen. It will be a very serious matter indeed, not only for the West Riding, but for the whole country, if there is a stoppage of coal supplies, for, so tar as millowners aro concerned, in the majority of cases they do not keep heavy stocks. i[n hand, town mills especially being unable to store more than a week's supply beforehand. Somo have taken time by tin* forelock by accumulating as much as possible, but the majority are ill-prepared for a coal strike, and it is quite possible to see a good many mills standing if the worst anticipations are realised. Those spinning erossbreds would not be at all averse to standing a full week and in that way reduce production, but in the majority of cases millowners are opposed to standing at all, for they desire to keep running either by hook or by crook. Tho fear of a coal strike is rather hampering business, and it is a thousand pities that the industrial outlook tho wide world over floes not present a more settled appearance. Some would not care at all if there had to be a coal strike, for they feel satisfied that wool prices would then drop, that being what they aro anxious lo see; but we have today to take trade in the' aggregate, and there is no doubt that the national calamity which would soon arise if the country were so involved would bring about conditions of a most injurious nature. Trade on the whole is not bad. There is not the l>oom wo have been accustomed to see; still, nulls axe generally kept running full time, and, taking things altogether, the consumption of the raw niaterial is still largo. Probably Bradford dress goods manufacturers aro tiic worst off for trade, and also Huddersfield makers of super-fine worsted fabrics.