MONASTERIES OF THE HOLY LAND.

Otago Witness, Issue 3030, 10 April 1912, Page 84

MONASTERIES OF THE HOLY LAND.

ANCIENT AND INACCESSIBLE. Tfiore are many monasteries scattered throughout Palestine remarkable for their ancient history, for the sieges they have survived, and for the inaccessibility ot their situation. Some 10 miles south-east of Jerusalem lies the Convent of Mar Saba, belonging to the Greek Church, clinging to the sides of a precipitous gorge in the very heart of the wilderness. It is reached, not as in most other cases, oy ascending to it from below, but by descending to it from above. One cannot enter without the written permission ot the Greek Patriarch at Jerusalem, and on no account arc visitors adnutteo after sunset. Then the monastery is closed to the fair sex. At the entrance, however, there is the Women’s Tower, where female pilgrims may lodge. , —Storm and Plunder. — The monastery is one of the oldest institutions of its kind in the world, having been founded so far back as the nftn century by tho monk feaint Sa-ba, after whom it is named. It has been repeatedly plundered and stormed by hostile tubes, and even to-day it is not free from attack.Less than a couple of decades ago it was pillaged by a band of roving Bedouins, when many of the monks were killed. The various buildings rest on small areas formed by the aid of massive buttressing walls built up from below, terrace above terrace. There are grottoes and tiny gardens of fruit trees and flowers. At the present time the monastery is occupied by about 50 monks, who lead an ascetic life, eating little else than vegetables and fasting frequently. Their principal occupation, besides the care of a few lunatics and refractory monks who are imprisoned here, is the feeding of the wild birds of the surrounding wilderness. The huge black ravens that dwell here are so tame th.it they will eat out of the monks’ hands. The monastery will ever be famous for the number of 'hymns that were written here. The three best-known perhaps are "Come, ye faithful,” ‘‘The day of resurrection,” * and ‘‘Those eternal bowers.” They were penned in Greek many centuries ago. The hymn, “Art thou weary? Art thou languid?” is also supposed to have been written here, though authorities are not agreed on this point. The three hymns mentioned were composed by a God-fearing monk and translated into English by Dr J. N. Neale. Those visiting the monastery should endeavour to spend a night here, for it is an experience not easily forgotten. Tho accommodation is rather poor, and the onlv provisions obtainable are bread, fruit, and wine, but in the kitchens provided one can cook their own food. Like all other similar institutions in the East, no payment is asked, but custom has established a tacit understanding that a suitable money recompense be made. When darkness has fallen one should take a walk on the terrace and look down into the valley. If it is a moonlight night, you are overawed at the convent’s singularly desolate situation. ’The rock falls away perpendicularly to a depth of 590 ft, and all is wild, barren, and bare. Nothing disturbs the silence except the occasional laughing of the hyenas. The Convent of St. George.— In the wild gorge if the Der Wadi el Kelt, at no groat distance from Jericho, stands the Greek Convent of St. George, said to mark the spot where the ravens brought food to Elijah. This monastery was formed by walling up a cavers in the rocks, one of the many which abound in this locality, and which were, in olden times, the abodes of anchorites. Tradition says that Joachim isolated himself here to' entreat God as to the sterility of his wife, iit. Anne, who became the mother of Mary the Blessed Virgin. This cavern, with the others near by, formed in the fourth century the “ Laura ” of John of Couziba. In the sixth century a monastery stood here, which fell into decay and was restored in the time of the Crusaders. The interest in the locality occurs out of the doubtful tradition that this gorge was that of the Brook Cherith, where Elijah was succoured by the ravens.

A most unique and interesting convent is the one belonging to the Greek Church, which is perched, like an eagle's eyrie, high up on tne perpendicular face of the Mount of Temptation, lying a short distance to the west of the site of ancient Jericho. It was from the top of thismountain, tradition says, that Christ was shown the kingdoms of this world and their glory. The traditional cave m which Christ passed his 40 days' fast has been transformed into a chapel. There are still traces of twelfth century frescoes representing Christ tempted by Satan. In the time of the Crusaders the convent was occupied by the Brothers of the Quarantine, meaning the 40 days. It was then controlled bv the Canons of the Holy bepulohre. Later it fell into decay. Since 1874 it has been occupied by Greek Church monks, and is one of the shrines visited by Greek Church pilgrin:s. A Stiff Climb.— It is a stiff climb up to the convent. Passing through it one can make his way to the top of the mountain, where are some Roman ruins. This eastern face ol the mountain has many caves, which were occupied in the early centuries by hermits. The weird and desolate aspect of the entire locality certainly lends force to St. Mark's graphic description of the temptation of Christ, when he says that he was with the wild beasts. From the convent, but more especially from the ton of the mountain, there is a magnificent view of the entire Jordan Valley in its lower stretches. . A short distance from the west bank of the Jordan stands the Convent of St. John, belonging to the Greek Church. It is a massive pile of white buildings capable of affording accommodation to 3000 or 4000 people, and is a place of great activity during the Epiphany services. On the banks of that dreary expanse of water, the Dead Sea, stands the Convent of St. Jerasmus. It is called by this natives Der Hadjla, thus preserving the ancient name of Beth Hogla mentioned in Joshua. The present building is a modem structure built on the site of an older edifice. There can be seen traces of frescoes and mosaics from the time of the Crusaders. About a mile from the monastery is a lukewarm spring where the monks have established a garden. Half-way between Jerusalem and Bethlehem, on the saddle of a hill, stands the Monastery of Mar Elias, one of the best known, perhaps, of these institutions. irom the terrace a fine prospect view of Bethlehem is obtained from the south and Jerusalem on the north. It is thought to have been founded by the Emperor Horachius. In and around Jerusalem there are a number of monasteries, the two most interesting being the Latin Convent of the Dominican Fathers and the famous Greek Convent facing the entrance to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. The first-named is located in' the midst of spacious grounds on the east side of the Nablous road, a short distance north of the Damascus Gate. Here is to be found one of the finest libraries in Jerusalem, and an interesting museum. The aim of the Dominicans in being in Jerusalem is to study the Bible in its own land and language. There are among them some of the finest archaeological scholars. In the winter months there are free weekly lectures, which any can attend, giving an opportunity of hearing specialists on subjects they have studied. The Greek convent which faces the entrance to the"""Church of the Holy S*"Milchre is one of the smaller of the several Greek monasteries to be found in the Holy City. The open space above the ground floor affords a good place from which to view the Easter ceremonies in the church quadrangle. It is an abode of Greek monks. The Mother Convent.— No description of these Eastern institutions would be complete without reference to the Carmelite Monastery, belonging to the Latins, on Mount Carmel. It is often referred to as the "Mother Con\ent," and is conspicuously situated on the. promontory in which the ridge of Carmel terminates, and overlooks the town of Haifa and the bay, on the opposite 6ide of which Acre can be described. It is reached by a half-hour's carriage ride from Haifa, the road winding by long sweeps up the mountain side. Many hermits lived in the caves in this neighbourhood in the time of the Crusaders, and a monastery stood here which was destroyed in 1821 after the Greek revolt by the Pasha of Acre. The fine large new buildings erected on the ruins-of the old accommodate about 20 Latin monks of the Carmelite brotherhood. Large hospitality is extended to the numerous pilgrims who visit the place. They are accommodated on the spacious ground floor, while* the monks have their quarters on the floor above. It is interesting to walk around through the Toomy corridors, the walls of which are hung with a great number of religious prints and paintings. From the terraces above a splendid view of sea and mountain and plain opens to one's gaze. A short distance from the convent a large cave, called the School of the Prophets, can be inspected. Tradition says the Holy Family found shelter here on their return from Egypt.—H. J. S.