FASHION NOTES FROM LONDON.

Otago Witness, Issue 3005, 18 October 1911, Page 73

FASHION NOTES FROM LONDON.

fFBOM Och Own Correspondent.) ■ September 1.AII too quickly with unerring regularity twice a yean- arrives that period commonly known as m-between-the-seasone, when all that concerns the fashion world is in" * state 'of uncertainty and chaos. At this iroment we are entering that period—ideas fo- the summer have been quite exhausted; ideas for the winter are in various states of. experiment with nothing very definite. Order will eventually be restored, as it always is, but. while the still summer weather lasts no one "wants to rieep toO far into the future, and changes, if any of a momentous nature are in store, are carefully withheld. Whispers float about that we ate to see again the shape of the figure; the small and natural waist is to b& reinstated The large and shapeless waistline certainly has long been a favourite, but most peop 1 © agree that waist and hips of one cwcum*ference make for monotony. The return of the natural outline of the figure will be accompanied by the drooping shoulder lino emphasised by draped fichus. Indeed,. we are warned to be on the look-out for the fashions which had existence at the.period of Winteirhalter, minus perhaps the largedimensioned crinoline, though if quite the latest information from Paris is authoritar tive—and it seems to be so —we shall bofore long be welcoming a crinoline in modified size. —The Latest from Paris.— Monsieuir Poiret enjoys the distinction of the title "the wizard of fashion," and.his colleague has announced . for publication: "It is quite true the crinoline is coming back again this winter, but in a modified and Oriental form." Since the "harem" garment met with universal disapproval M. Poiret has given up "" rkey as a source of

inspiration for this fashions, and has transferred his patronage to Persia, "Persian costumes are so picturesque and a3sthetio that they have enormous possibilities as regards Western adaptation. "The Great Mogul dress, as it has been christened, will, I promise you. be all the rage this winter. The outstanding feature about it is the revival of the crinoline. Hoops will be employed at the edige of the skirt, but their proportions will not be exaggerated as in the days of our grandmothers. The new crinolines, indeed, will be very little wider than the skirts at present worn, and the wearers will have perfect liberty of movement. To' the skirt will be attached the long tunic coming to the knees, the two being made in one piece. As regards trimmings, gold and silver facings and braid will be used plentifully. We have already sold several Persian dresses to customers in England and America, and they are unanimous in their admiration of the new-fashion. Our Great Mogul creations will be equally charming as walking dresses or tea or dinner gowns. We are confident that they will be a success, but in the interests of bur customers it would be indiscreet to give fuller details just at present." Therefore we shall have to "wait and see." The prospect is not very alluring, but really, after the terrible hobble and the daring harem we are ready to welcome almost anything as a relief. —A Hint of Autumn.— Light straw hats won't be . bought any moT©; when straws are chosen they will be of dark colours, and these now fill the windows with shapes of satin and velvet combined, with hats and toques that are wholly of plumage in ail amazingly varied colour range and colour combination, and with shape's that are of a silk-beaver felt—this last material must not be confused with the fluffy beaver of ,two years ago any more than with the silk beaver smooth of surface which is used for men's hats and which ocasionally has been experimented with for feminine headgear. The new beaver has a surfaco resembling long-haired plush; it is very pliable, and its colourings are of the richest, among the most attractive being a deep peacock blue and a becoming myrtle green. As a rule the ■' shapes are medium rather than large in size,' a good many of them fitting round the head and terminating in a fairly high crown, this shape being something like a thimble; all through tho winter there will be a tendency to turn up the brim somewhere during its course, and the turned-up front will be very popular. This has to be held in place by something, and a plaque of beads will serve the pur-, pose. Newest of all, however, will be the plaque of canvas foundation worked in ■wool, the design chosen resembling a piece of tapestry or a scene from Japan or a group of figures which usually appear on Dresden china. The home embroiderer will look forward to designing and working her own millinery plaque, and the timely hint will probably be acceptable that wool is the newest medium for' working these, many colours being required to carry out the scheme. Next in importance to plaques, •which are all flat, one must place the upstanding fantasy made ol marabout. This sometimes, is a single plume worn straight upright, but more pretentious is the appearance of, a great handful of theee fantasies which are of varying lengths, and which, accordingly, spread themselves about the hat at will. Early indications, however, point to rather a spare© allowance for trimming on hats; many that are largest will carry very little, and some of the medium sizes will b© devoid of trimming except for the plaque, depending for onarm upon the rsbape and the care fb wear it at the coquettish angle; a colour contrast is possible usually, for the brim where it is at all upturned shows itself to be a different colour from the crown of the hat. It is an exaggeration very often? to mention th© existence of a brim, for this consists so frequently of nothing more than a little shaped flap which is brought from underneath and .made to rest against the.crown portion of th© hat. As a trimming for the attractive beaver shapes, a, pretty made wing of iridescent plumage is very effective, so many gradations of one colour revealing themselves as they catch the light. Wings are going to be used, more often kept compactly near the shape than spreading across it; quill-shaped ornaments _ are made of shot silk, which is put on in a series of littl© thick frillinigs t with edges picked out; tlhes© look a littl© way off much like a clipped ostrich feather, and the substitute is a clever one. Then, too-, when a quill-shaped piece of canvas is covered with tier upon tier of a short and fino_ fringe of silk cord there is .something of an illusory feather about the Some of the brimless hats which are quite new 1 are_made of graduated steps of this fringed silk cord, the intermediate spaces being filled irr with big ribbon bows, which stretch widely across the hat. For the soft felt and the silky quasi-Tyroles© hat there will be great demand all the winter through, though possibly for really smart occasions most of the shapes will be a combination of satin and velvet or velvet and silk. Numerous examples of the little coalscuttle bonnet or "cabriolet" have appeared in felt, and at this early period there is a demand for-th© white felt in preference to anything of colour; and pretty indeed is the frame it provides for a young face, its trimming consisting of flutings of black taffetas and strings of black velvet tied under the chin at one sid©. For immediate wear Tagal straw will suffice for all requirements, especially as the shapes now arriving are blocked to meet the latest requirements. This fin© straw, probably in a putty tone or pure white, has its "brim," which begins on either side of th© face and gets deeper behind, of black velvet; its side trimming will consist of a forest of aigrettes or a tall I erection" of soft marabout or a generously made bunch of ribbon bows, inclining rather backward. For the most part the hat or toque deems* it a duty to frame the face like a cap, the relief, being a little upward

sharp pinch in the middle of the back, -which | reveals the fact that the wearer has some j hair to show. It is rather to be regretted | that the back of the head is still nearly I always eclipsed by the favourite shaped j hat. It is true that this is built on modi- \ tied dimensions, but the reduction is not [ sufficient to sho'W much hair anywhere during its outline. The thimble-shaped bat still ' has a backward inclination,, and this lino f is accentuated by the nodding plumes being set well behind, and finally floating about j. at will. i

—Hair-dressing.— Bunches of curls have not much chance of existing while the hats are so fitting, and we are told that the Frenchwoman has given up their use altogether, just as she has put aside all her hair pads save one. This solitary relic is used as a foundation for the hair, which is rolled round at th© back, low on the neck, accommodation for ib being provided by the lifting or pinching of the hat at the back of the neok. As for the front, the hair has to be arranged low on the head, parting and waving being allowed to suit the face, and there is every likelihood that waving in large, loose undulations will become very general again. For indoor wear the long Alexandra curl is not unknown, the long corkscrew falling' at the back of the ea"r over" the shoulder. At present, though, this" is not likely to become at all widely chosen, because, for the evening, when hats are- not required, there are still so many ■wonderful bandeaux made of embroideries in gold and silver and glittering jewels, that no one has inclination to abandon iibese at present. Very often a piece of glittering embroidery, to match that on the dress, will b© the bandeau selected, and its breadth will continue to unchanged. The 'diamante trimmings of this summer season for evening wear will remain all through the winter, and bandeaux, of this jewelled fabric will have attached\ tall aigrettes of white or black or colour set well toward the back. The young girl will often select her own style of hairdressing, going to Romney or Gainsborough or Greiize. for her inspiration, while there is •every likelihood of the frequent choice of Grecian fiilets. For indoor occasions thsre is really no limit to the possibility of hairdressing ; it is only in the daytime that one will be compelled to keep within restricted bounds. —Of Likely Interest.— For the scribbler the telescopic silver pen and pencil combined is always a useful possession. He will, however, want to replace his old one with the newest variety; the inside of the holder is made the receptacle for stamps, two separate rows of them being wound inside; they are . got at through a narrow slit, the principle beang apparently something that pf a tape measure. For the pen, pencil, and stamp receptacle combined there should be some demand. Bead necklaces of wooden beads are all the rage; these are threaded on a stoutish cord, and a knot in the cord separates on© bead from its neighbour. They are light in weight, and all colours are obtainable; coloured strings are worn on white dresses as well as with dresses of- their own colour. From some depends a little knitted silk purse which is found useful for holding a few coins of small change. Quite new is tbp arrangement of a row of wooden beads attached to the low-cut bodice as a, finish round the opening. Beads of pearl look more appropriate in this connection. Fine-faoed stuffs and silky cloths are being used by the tailor in Vienna, and the colours are peculiarly rich. There is an intense dark blue which is almost iridescent in its sheen, there is a peacock that will be chosen by the fair girl, there is an Indian red which will appeal to the brunette, the myrtle gn<e©n ought to b© patronised (but for a long while this has not hod much patronage), and for those who like browns there are shades which are sure 'to pleas©. The texture of some of the Scotch tweeds and homespuns reveals a silky tendency which used not to be there.

At present coats may be of any length, but before long th© coat cut to threequarter length will be worn; a great deal of braid is to be used for trimming, and the usual shape, regardless of length, will be semi-fitting. Panels and curves and curious slanting lines will be encouraged, and one of the eccentricities of detail is the square-cut sailor collar, which has. its velvet or silk part cut off in a long, slanting lino from the left hand upper corner to the right hand low corner; the effect i§ worrying. On© of the smartest autumn taiilor-mades gives th© coat long ends behind, with a cut-away basque in front. Hanging panels back and front are still added to the skirt, and a prominent feature of the coat is the finely-cut glass button of whit© or colour applique with gold designs.

Slashings ar© going to make themselves indispensable, at this period, when cut-up tunics are t© be worn and panels are introduced apparently at random. Every opportunity will be provided for the clever dressmaker to introduce colour combinations which ere entirely new, and Egyptian colour schemes will be general, black and white leffects will Jhold their own, and there will bo innumerable opportunities for thinking out new harmonies by the use ef veiling fabric over fabric. The tulle sash appears as a mid-season novelty for the evening or afternoon dress of brocade or channelise; th© bow is of butterfly shape, tied . high, two long ends floating away over the train or panel. A fringe of beads is needed to weight the flimsy ends.

According to present indications, the evening decolletage will not be cut excessively low; a pointed or rounded berth© is equally popular, while all the evening sleeves are very short and close-fitting, and of some cobwebby material which is really

rather diffioult to manage. Sleeves slit up from shoulder to elbow aire; pretty, the edges held together with lines of sparkling gems or with clusters of bebs roses sparkling with dewdrby. Chiffon is used for these- miniature flowers.