FASHION NOTES FROM LAND

Otago Witness, Issue 2985, 31 May 1911, Page 73

FASHION NOTES FROM LAND

C'»©2S ©53 Own Cokhespondent.} April 13. Enthusiasm icz summer clothing cannot possibly b© anything more than hike-warm while the weaiawr is co unpleasantly wintry. The meteorological authorities sti'l divide the year into four seasons, but the majority of the shopkeepers never seem to provide for anything but summer a:nd winter. —Noticeable Improvement. — For months past wionder has been expressed at the continued popularity of the shapeless Magyar blouse and dpaea and tunic; with this pattern of bodice there has been no advantage in having shapely arms or other good figure-points. But now there is a general all-round improve-" ment markedly prominent. When first introduced! the extreme plainness of the pattern and the collection of unwieldy folds under the arms, in spite of scant material everywhere else, seemed to constitute its miain charms. But by degrees these unattractive features are being changed. The Magyar, whether blouse or bodice, is made to lit more into the figure at the_ sid<v.» and its ultra-plainness is giving place to folds and drapings from' the shoulder line following a becoming course to the waist, also to fronts finished with pretty revere allowing the insertion of a pointed _ vest of cream net or lac© or tucked chiffon. What would bo baggy fulness on top of the shoulders if left to follow its own course is collected and either finely gauged or arranged in pin tuekings, so that its width shall not be deeper than the shoulder line. The Magyar blouse can be a very dainty affair with its long-line dna pings from each shoulder crossing at the waist, giving scope as well for rovers of embroidery with sailor collar behind, and the inclusion of a neat pointed vest with high collar band. The sleeves fit the arms better, and usually are of three-quarter length. On the other hand, there are still Mag-

yar blouses, whoso front is quite devoid of excess of material, sfcretdmng plainly across the. figure, but their shape is certainly bettor than it was. Very dainty squares are made of specially-printed silk muslins and cotton voiles and silks which the homo dressmaker can,use herself. Each square is marked showing where the neck piece is to be cut and where sleeves aire It© be seamed; then there is left in f.-fjnfc as a decoration the pattern of the blouse, possibly a tapering cluster of flowers forming a border to the round-cut neck, finally tapering off in a point down the fromt. T'ho home dressmaker seems to find these squares very easy to make up, and she has no time for anything requiring more work; a rounded yoke of net and iindersleeves ot the some complete this blouse. Then, too, there is the Magyar which is out high up to the throat, similarly adorned with a suitable printed pattern Kl front—this sometimes imitates a strip of lace, and is carried down the outer part of the arm—and completed by a little turndown Peter Pan collar of embroidery, with cuffs of the same finishing the three-quarter sleeves. As a change from the GmalU rounded turned-down collar, the "Quaker" collar is going to .have a turn, the long", sharp points of this adding considerably to length of figure—a result hardly at taincd by the adoption of the Magyar pattern, which in its plain and severe edition certainly adds to breadth of figure. There is no doubt about it, the Magyar style is going to remain with us all through tlho season for smart diresses, for "tub" and "jumper" frocks, for blouses, for little Eton coats, for the new visites. and for the more pretentious all-enveloping day and evening wraps. There are still too many skirts of sheathlike dimensions which accentuate the bad points of an imperfect figure, and the general silhouette encourages a tendency for the narrow skirt to curve in ward at the ankles, showing the whole of the foot when any sort of motion is in progress. But there are evidences that even the straight and narrow skirt is not any longer to be cramping in its narrowness. The tailors keep a more compact and confining width than do the dressmakers, some of the salient features of the latter being the amount of draped fulness of the overdress looped up fully near the foot of the skirt, though of course the under-dress itself is straight and plain. Presently we shall see many dresses whose skirts of thin ninon or mousselino or foulard are looped up in picturesque manner in _ the region of the foot, displaying below just a few inches of the satin foundation which forms a part of every dress. Dressmakers have no obje«rtion at all to introducing a scarf-likffl train,, which can be picked up and carried over the arm. In those days when eccentricity will have its way, it is nothing unusual to find the train placed distinctly at one side, and certainly nearer the front tbfim the back of the skirt. As indication of the return of more generous fulness which is to be allowed us, it is necessary only to notice the pleatings and gaugings that appear about the waistline of the moussline frock, also about tho folds amd fichu drapings of the bodice; it is seldom, though, that tho fuller muslin skirt will reach to the ankles —tho neoessary length must be achieved by the use of an underskirt of silk or satin that is not any width more than necessary for comfortable movement. '\ —Some Materials and How They are Used.— Among low-priced materials hardly anything is more pleasing than what is called cotton foulard; it really is a sort of glorified sateen, but tho closest inspection is needed in the first place to distinguish it from the silk rival; its patterns are extremely dainty, and its colours are all good; when new, a da-ess of it will Jjook every bit as well as a dress of foulard, and in these days when the fashionable of moderate means need many clothes, the cotton foulard will provide at least one pretty dress at one-fourth the cost of the silk, and little will it matter if it meets with misfortune. . While as for ootton voiles, they are extremely dainty and attractive alike as regards colouring anc patterning, and their moderate priceoften under one shilling a yard—brings them within the reach of the multitude.

When complete, many of the two-mate-rial frocks are very much, like the Russian blouse suit. Apparently the costume at first glance is merely a Magyar-out ooa* and skirt of satin, the coat being rather longer than the hips, and finished round with a line of silk braid or some rat-tail trimming; remove the coat, and underneath will be found a dress the major portion of whose skirt consists of satin, with its "upward continuation of ninon or mousseline, made with quite generous ful ness, and slightly gauged into the waist In such a case the same colour charaiqterises the oostume all through; plenty of more daring schemes are possible by the use of contrasting oolours and by the combination of figured silk or satin with plain This style should be adopted only by the young and slender and tall, for it has a tendency to cut the figure too much, and in no case must it be adopted by the stout. In such a suit as this, what tlb'e/ro is in the way of collar ornamentation will be attached to the coat, all but flat t ('raining being avoided on the bodice. Rather curious is the combination of mousseline and silk, when the former is used for the foundation and the latter for the overdress. "To the contrary arrangement we are no strangers.

It is very evident that we cannot manage without shantung and tussore any more than wo can without foulard. In all weights and colours the silk is again on show, and much that the tailors will use is almost white in tone and invariably is heavily ribbed. Touches of colour—sometimes bold

splashes of a vivid hue—will characterise the shantung suits when of natural tone Ui<r sailor collars of colour will vie with 2S*r2&S? " lld U r hCS f the coaTand oorst tutinsr the smartness of the coat, ana the fancy for black satin as a tri,mmmg has by no means abated. A new fabric, too has just .made its appearance and m all li elihood it will be preferred to satm as for street wear the latter is not real y the most suitable or in colour lined with white, for the stun hentoks no better than the cotton-backed striped satin that » used for coat 1 mmgs The possible rival to satm wi Ite"/ charmeuse, to be had m any ? MdV It is a fabric that hangs gracefully and the cord seems to tone down the t»M lianee of an unbrokenly even satin surface Then, too, for the dressy coat and skirt one might do w*» than order * to be made of Irish poplin, a .fabuc wnicn nowadays has much to reoommend i.t. charming suits mA gowns may be from it Now that so many skirts seem to need two kinds of material to make at any rate. a. colour contrastthe row "uni" will be in request. Practically every skirt has a double effect, mrduced by a tunic real or sirnu ated or gy one of tie deep » hems ston short of the kmces. In© absolutory SaFn and untrimmed skirt would look quite out of harmony did it put in an appearance at this moment. The most severe kind of one-fabric skirt is a good deal out up Lto panels held together by braid s*nps and buttons, or . if. it happerra Jo be of striped material it is trimmed with patchy effect by bands and (medallions of »*».«"» stuff, whose -stripes strike all kinds of unusual attitudes. Sashes and Belts.— When we talk of sashes we .no longer mean folds of broad ribbon, woixclmg the waist and adding to its girth, and then finally forming two big bows with ends stretching all over the back of the skirt Wo mean a compact waistband, in depth about 2in-at the most 3m— arranged in narrow folds firmly stitched to keep them in position. x Here and there are a few bones to ensure firmness. At the back this sash is finished with an upright quilling, from which falls one long loop and one end, the one resting on the other. Ine principle is that of the Japanese pillow iash but it is carried out in dimensions of extreme moderation. Most belts are worn rather high, and so is this variety. Soft satin ribbon is being chiefly used, but many of the chine silks make up daintily, and so do ribbons which have more or less tinsel thread in their construction. Ordinary waistbelts are, of course, required, for we cannot all live in Empire one-piece dresses, and although some of the tailored suits have corselet skirts, _ the majority have not, and a waistband is a necessity. Immense is the variety, but there are more belts of elastic and suede and straight corded silk than there are fancy belts of folded taffetas. Indeed, the request for a waisbbelt of folded navy silk produces a stare of blank astonishment that anything of so antedoluvian a period should be asked for. The answer comes that such belts are not wanted; therefor© they are not made. Instead there are elastic belts to be had in. every known! colour, just as there are belts of soft suede. Many are studded with steel points; all are more or less shaped, and the usual fastening consists of a large flat buckle of metal or enamel or covered with kid. Some of the belts which have extra width at the back are cut into upright points. Some of tho brocaded and metallic ba«ds are backed by elastic. Very plain and simple are the straight bands made of Irish poplin punched with holes and fastening with an ornamental clasp. Quite a novel fastening is that modelled on the hook. Its size is gigantic, of course, 'and it is made of gilt or steel. It is now, but not beautiful. Some of the coats are intended to bo belted outwardly, and for the purpose patent-leather is tho best, either quite plain jr cut up into strips, which are arranged to alternate with lines of coloured kid. Some of the spliced patent-leather belts are very fetching. —Small Things that Count. —

Paris announces tho introduction of some very effective buckle ornaments, which are used to lift up draperies and keep them in position, are made of thin wood, in the shape of rings or ellipses, covered with material, and they are very effective for the purpose to which they are put. In these days when beads aie everywhere given prominence; they decorate rather daintily M>me of the latest luickles There is no. limit to the outline, since crescents and st:!.rs and diamond shapes are included; covered in the most simple manner with silk satin, it imparts quite an air of distinction to a soft dress of filmy ninon, which will probably have some kind of fichu drapery that needs to be caught in artistic folds a,nd kept there. The hint is given that whalebone would answer the purpose of the foundation.

In spite of wintry surroundings, drosses of white spotted muslin have put in a bold appearance, regardless of the chill they strike. The novel feature of these robes consists in the fact that they are trimmed with the new Oriental embroidery in deepcoloured silks or cottons. The work leminds ooa of Russian peasant embroidery, which will be much soon on washing blouses and silk ;>nd linen shirts. Linen tiirn-dowin collairs—both of the Quaker and Peter Pan patterns—are obtainable hand-worked in Oriental coloured cottons. They are to be worn with the demure-looldng linen dress built on lines of the iitmost simplicity,

always, of course, a la Magyar. "White linen cuffs and collars and waistbclts worked with coloured cotton will be constantly seen during- the summer months as a trimming to the "tub-frock" of linen or zephyr. Spunella, spungola, spanning—these are all terms denoting the useful silk of very fine twill texture, woven in stripes and used for : shirt blouses. The excellent wearing qualities of' this silk have made it very popular, but-the price still lemains rather high. It is guaranteed to be all-British. The up-to-date motorist will probably choose a "mummy" coat —so named because the wearer feels encased in it; it folds Over the figure straight and flat, and fastens an the left hip by cord ornaments. The model is - being shown in .a .sort of tabac brown blanket cloth, and the colour adds to the sug.gestiveness of its designation. The limn hood cape can bo pulled over the head if necessary. The following list has been compiled of terms familiar in the world of fashion, and acquaintance with those terms will probably be useful ; —Sarrau means an Egyptian, smook, laveuse is the tucked up overdress, some of the tunics- taking this form; collante is the term which applies to a gown clinging closely to the figure—its derivation, is from the noun that in plain English means glue; orible signifies powdered or peppered—as beads and spots are often applied at present without following any apparent pattern; mi-ajustee means semi-fitting, and is usually applied to the tailored suite; everyone knows that a cabochon is applied to mound-shaped ornaments used mostly by milliners; galons aro braids; a silk muslin with a napped surface is called panne mouseeline; crepe meteore is pressed instead of being crinkled. Buttons are often of the same fabric as the dress or suit, though a good many are covered with passememterie, and-there are still a few of velvet and satin. In metal, j steel holds the premier position, the demand for gold being very small. Horn buttons, though, are very much used, processions of them bsing seen on skirt and ooat-sloeve. One of the best tailors in Regent street has made a very attractive pre-Easter display of lomg travelling coats. All are of the darkest navy blanket cloth, but each one has collar and revers and cuffs of some colour contrast in cloth. The effect is extremely good. The colours thus introduced have included crimson, cerise, brilliant orange, an emerald green visible far off, a delicate champajgne tint, sapphire a,nd royal blue, coral pink, par ma violet. The inside ci the coat is faced with the same cloth, and is visible all the way down the front when the coat is open. In every case the collar is of sailor pattern, and the front revers are broad at the top, tapering off in a becoming long line. . In cut the coat is semi-fitting and unbelted. Handbags and aumonieres are still of gigantic siz>9, and it is quite . evident that the latter kind of reticule will survive, the summer. The majority now are made of the most tarnished gold tinsel cloth, so tarnished as to have a dull verdigris complexion; this dulness is characteristic of much of the gold cloth and embroidery and tinsel trimming now used; it is unnecessarily dingy. In contrast bo the enormous reticule ■to be slung from the shoulder, is the tiny little bag of drawn silk now slung from the stick of the sunshade —quite a novel idea. This little bag_ takes the place of a tassel, and since it is largo enough to hold a handkerchief or a powder-puff or a minute purse, it is more than a mere ornament. But in these days of portman-teau-sized reticules there does not exist the necessity for the little bag which forms part of the sunshade outfit, made, of course, of material to match the parasol; it is. however, a "notion" distinctly worthy of record Some of the parasols are bordered with deep silk fringe. If the cover happens to be of Paisley pattern, then the fringe is exactly the same, having the appearance of being frayed out for the purpose; for an inch or more it is knitted, then it falls as it pleases. We have not by any means finished with veiled effects. Here is the newest treatment for the petticoat. Satin is the foundation —any colour preferred, —and this satin extends to the entire length of the garment. Mounted on to it is a deep flounce of white broderie A.nglaise. This lace is embedded securely beneath a deep band of silk muslin, outlined top and bottom with ribbon finished at intervals with bows. The petticoat is kept to one tone all through, the only relief being the veiled embroidery. The specimen skirt I have in mind was of royal blue. ~,.,,, i Striped silk, particularly in black and white, in lines that are bold, but of the same dimensions all through, is in immense demand for trimming purposes. Tailors like it for revers, so do mantkmakers, -while milliners use it most often in the form of ribbon. Draped easily round a large hat, it looks rather well with a bordering of cerise on a hat of Tuscan straw. Bows and loops of it are quite usual, but newer is the "quill" made of the black and white stripes attached to the simple hat by means of two large buttons made of coral or cerise silk. These large silk quills so ac+ached are distinctly new, and on a plain and simple hat they look remarkably well, possessing a stylo all their own. They "will arrive," as the French say; their future is quite assured. Once upon a time gloves were scented; it is* not improbable that they will be so again in the near future. "We see more gloves in pale grey and delicate beaver than in white; and suede is preferred to kid as a general rule. One of the new veils has a large and clear mesh, and is of fine texture. _At intervals of an inch or so apart there is a cluster of very small dots. Unbecoming all-over veils continue to bo worn; their charm remains undiscovered.