FASHION NOTES FROM LONDON.

Otago Witness, Issue 2934, 8 June 1910, Page 93

FASHION NOTES FROM LONDON.

(From Ods Own Correspondent.) April 22. —An Easy First.— It is true that there are a few departments of dress which shantung has not yet invaded, but these can be counted on tire fingers of one hand. This class of silk in all its many degrees of thickness has just planted itself firmly everywhere,!, and it occupies now an impregnable position. It survived last years furow, and it is " going strong" again all this season—it is a material that has been thoroughly tested and its patrons -tome again • and again for it. There IS such, immense variety alike as regards its texture, its tones, and its uses. The dressmaker' wonders what she uped before shantung becam. popular; the tailor .is buying all he can get for his latest-coats and skirts. the mantle-maker prefers shantung to anything when he wants to turn out sensible dust-cloaks as well as attractive evening wraps; the blousemaker finds it possible to create so many individual styles that she is all she knows to produce models different from, other people's; there are petticoats of the silk, made with deep accordion-pleated! frills which are sometimes ' edged with Paisley-patterned self-material; milliners are turning out by the thousand useful and smart-looking hats made from shantung, plainly stretched over a foundation-shape;. for sunshades nothing is more serviceable, and the degree of simplicity or elaboration can vary according to requirements. And everybody is 1 at least' using some of the silk somewhere as a trimming—foi* instance, the tailor likes to have collars and cuffs of natural or Paisley shantung as a finish to his coat and skirt of navy serge. There are Peter Pan collars, and cuffs too, made j of embroidered tussore, which are to be I worn with fcwttple dresses. In the wav of

self-trimming’ the choice is large, for handsome silk are ready to go with shantung, wbother in its natural tone or whether dyed to one of the newest colours. The variety of the treatment meted out to shantung is one of its charms. Quite the latest novel feature of the silk is its crepon surface; there are patternings of many kinds, but of course the Paisley easily tops the list; there are shot shantungs, and there are striped and spotted sorts too, as well as a few checks. But more pleasing than the figured varieties are the eelf-ooloured dyes, -which include the most becoming coral-pink, plumbagoblue, golden-apricot, and others too numerous to mention, embracing many subdued tapestry tones which are specially suited to spring and early summer. Delightful in their simplicity are the girls’ dresses made of shantung in some delicate colour; the skirts are prcttil- fulled and tucked round the edge, the bodice is an cas’ly made affair of pleats; if there is no upstanding collar there is a Peter Pan finish of embroided -white lawn, while cuffs to correspond make a neat finish to the wrist of the fulled sleeve, which has a fitting cuff from elbow to wrist. Shantung petticoats will be liked and wanted; they will wash so well and easily, even when finished with the Paisley border, The Blouse En. Suite.— Of course in these days the dress all in one piece is much in request, and no wonder. It is possible to buy for 35s a tussore frock all ready to put on, and of course as much more can be paid as the •buyer wishes, the price depending on the quality of the material and the kind of trimming, also the general style -and work involved. And there are ready-made frocks in every kind of material, so that the blouse sometimes is rather ignored. However the coat and skirt necessitates _ a blouse of some kind, and the only restriction laid down is that it must match in colour the costume it accompanies. Hence for the coloured tussore blouse aand shirt the demand is enormous. Silk of the lightest weight is used, and of course patterned and plain varieties .are given a turn. There is rather a craze for the Paisleypatterned shantung blouse, and this frequently is made after the Magyar model; some three or four shades enter prominently into the weave, and then the blouse is allowed to associate itself with a skirt of any one of the several colours; but that exception is the only one; an exact match is the rule. Small chemisettes of fine ivory or Mechlin lace are added, and there are cuff? to match. A® a rule blouse-sleeves are of the chemise cut and length, with long fitting under-sleeve of cream net or lace, the latter being banded at intervals with strips of the blousematerial finished with suitable buttons. Flat fichu folds characterise some of the nicest blouses, coming flat on the shoulders on either side, the front being cut out at the top in a graceful curve to show a chemisette and high neck-band of fine laoe; the elbow-length sleeves of the material consist chiefly of drapings, falling over the lace under-sleeves, which always fit the arm properly from elbow to wrist. From Paris comes intimation that the latest evolution of the ever-wanted blouse is the kerchief style, reminiscent of the onoe-worn crossed kerchief bodice. This style, of course, is well provided for now that Paisley and Oriental-patterned silks are all- the rage. The borders are used in the cross-fronted collar, and the encls often fall below the belt. Then, too, there is a variation by the choice of the sailor model, with collar of the border acting as a frame to the vest of tucked lace. It is not often that anything made of shantung is veiled. Dresses of patterned foulard nearly always are covered un with a film of tulle or chiffon, but the only instance of veiled shantung seen by me has been in the sunshade department. The covers, whether plain or patterned, whether in natural tone or in some dyed shfipe, eften have an outer layer of open-meshed silk net of a colour that contrasts with the shade. Without a veiling- somewhere existence would be intolerable. The aim after mystery obtained by using one material over another daily takes a firmer hold, and dressmakers and milliners and blousemakers vie with each other in their endeavour to be different from everybody else, so far at any rate as the production of colour effects is concerned. Where Shantung Is Not. — So far hosiers have not touched shantung, but they have made stockings of silk and thread that will go exactly with any tone of the silk material. Glovers) have made no use of shantung, but they have supplied kid and suede in harmonising colours. Corset-makers have not thought of introducing it, but there is no reason why they should not, since they are using other silks for their corsets. Bootmakers will presently find it worth their While to work it in with leather for boots and shoes in the way they do cloth. There are not any handkerchiefs of tussore, but there are plenty in natural tussore colour made of a mercerised lawn, which now goes by the name of “ lissue.” With these few exceptions shantung in all its degrees •enters into every other department of dress. —ln Millinery.— When New Zealanders see the picture and sailor shapes of pale cream shantung they, will like them. Though not quite suited for very dressy occasions they are delightful for morning wear and for river and seaside wear. The material is put without a crease over the shape. It is bound round the edge with a border of pretty satin ribbon or one of Paisley tussore. The trimming consists of a gener-

ous ewathery round the orowr of colour to correspond with the border, and this drapery finishes at one side in an enormous chou, padded from the inside, which gives it the aopearanoe of a large blister. If this is not‘liked it is easy to alter its rather unpleasing shape. The Modern Idea of a ‘ Hem. Two seasons ago the pretty idea was introduced of adding a hem of 2in dept all round the rkirt. The latter was probably of chiffon or silk muslin, and the hem —of velvet or satin acted as protector, while at the same time it was ornamental and neat. Ever since then the hem has retained its favour, but its width has gradually been growing deeper. Now its proportions are startling and ridiculous, and its presence- cannot be overlooked, because the material always is a contrast to the remai ider of the 1 ' skirt, *nd because its general mission is to confine beneat.r its grip any fulness that may have been eased in round- the waist. Trifles —Irr-jporiant and Otherwise. — It is anticipated that the coming summer will see all kinds of old ornaments for the neck revived. The collarless blouse is largely responsible for this. Strings of beads made* of coloured stones are in every jewel-case now. They are not always precious, but they axe always effective, if necklaces are liked The great object is to have plenty of variety. Some beads are ot lapis-lazuli; others are of amber or malachite, or mauve Ardennes quartz. Venetian beads are in plenty jn mixed colourings. For evening wear the seed pearl is the thing. Hundreds of the pearls are needed to compose a rope, which terminates in heavy pearl tassels. Double veils, with some fine mesh beneath and a bold mesh above, are numerous, and there are double veils of fine chiffon under a net or lace design. Chameleon chiffon and the veil which is not shot, but is shaded from the middle to the border, are among the novelties for the motor lady. Some of the latest waistbelts of patent leather are pierced with a double row’ of eyelet holes from end to end. These are threaded up and down with silk laces, or ribbons, which should accord with the dress or costume. Patent leather unadorned is far more jpleasing, and most of the colours are very attractive. The usual widthis somewhere about 2in, the material is soft and pliable, and the clasp is often a. massive one of French gilt. Veiled designs in black .chiffon over white, or colour, are numerous, and make some of the most attractive dresses. If the foundation is white then a vivid touch of colour is introduced at the waist or elsewhere to prevent anything of a mournful effect. The shot chiffons are in a wealth of choice, and they look particularly well over a satin foundation. Coats of all kinds—jaunty little affairs, longer Russian shapes, and the all-envelop-ing wrap—are made of black moire, usually eollarless, but with a finish round the neck of embroidered lawn or one of gold gauze. A gold button here and there enlivens the deadly dulness of the material. Coats of dark colour frequently have a frilling of white laoe-edged lawn sewn inside the sleeve, and for a few inches up the back seam. The latest French roses- are intensely white, and in contrast the foliage is extremely glossy and deep of hue, tending frequently towards bronze-green. White roses generally have a tinge of cream toward the middle, but not so the most up to date. Their pure white is almost dazzling. In this age, when everything must match everything else, dyed laces are met with all round —purple, blue, rjpricot-yellow, cerise, green, buttercup. It not infrequently happens that the lace is attached to the underdress, its- presence being only faintly outlined through e transparency of veiling. Transparencies o,re the note of the season, all the new gauzes, nets, and batistes of the thinnest make being usually thrown over a contrasted underdress. All skirts are growing much shorter. It is quite likely that ere long the visiting gown will have a trainless skirt. French people are much in favour of the latter. Alongside the very narrow dresses there are- to be found very full ones, with a good deal pf gauging and fine tucking.