A CYCLING TOUR

Otago Witness, 1 June 1910, Page 60

A CYCLING TOUR

/THROUGH THIC SOUTH ISLAND A.ND TO MOUNT COOK. Bv Finlay Anderson. I. I left Dunedin on March 1 for Oamaru. Next day I started off for Rangitata. A *e*r miles before reaching Geraldine I mated up two other cyclists, both from i Dunedin. They told me they had taken the tram from Dunedin to Ti.maru, and were also cycling to Nelson, via West Coast, so ire decided to ride together. They were making for Mayfield, about 15. miles on the ©finer side of the Rangitata traffic bridge, i •On the further end of the bridge to May- Bis mostly a clay and unformed road. Aisout seven miles before reaching Mayfield darkness came on. My two companions lit their acetylene lamps, but the Ughts eventually failed, and wo proceeded on in darkness. About three miles before reaching .Mayfield one of my companions began to feel faint, so we went to a farm house near )t>y and were given refreshments. Next morning we left the Mayfield accommodation house for Lake Coleridge. Some miles [past Mount Somers we called at a farm, , 'and were given refreshments, which we reffsked very much, especially the tea. Alter traversing indifferent and very good reads, crossing creeks and water races, we arrived at Lake Coleridge at 5.30. W© understood that there was an accommodation house at Lake Coleridge, but instead | there was only Mr Murchison’s homestead — * a very large place. We told them how we ■ were placed, and they kindly gave us accommodation for the night. j On March 4- we left at 8.40 for Bealey. iWc continued on the main road, crossed | many watercourses and creeks and traversed ! very indifferent roads. Some parts of the road ! were covered with rocks and stones —evidently brought down by avalanches from the adjacent mountains. We passed three Email lakes, known as the “World,” “Flesh,” and “Devil,” which were wall Stocked with game, such as Paradise ducks, swamp hens, swans, and wekas. At last vve t name to the Harper River bed, and found fit necessary to carry our machines over I |»ulders to the brink of the rivet. The j fiver was by no means a tempting one to cross, as it looked deep, with a strong current running. However, I tested it, and) • found it too deep and strong. I then pro- ‘ fceeded up the river bank to find a suitable place to ford. After going about half a I came across a place where the river |orms a tributary. I made my way through it, wading up above my Jiips, at the some time concentrating my eyee up the river, Otherwise the fascination of the fast-running Current seemed to draw one away. I also found it necessary to keep stepping it out, Us the boulders and rooks kept washing ijiway from under my feet. Re-crossing, I beckoned my companion to come up, and, J)ioking up my cycle, I carried it across one of. my companions following. _ RetorosSinig again,, ll found the remaining cyclist rather reluctant to cross the river. After a good deal of persuasion I eventu- . fdly got him to make preparations, and picked up his machine and carried it over. [We then recrossed and assisted him. On the other side of the river we had 1 to push 1 our way over very uneven ground, through! fences and African thorn. Then a swarm pf sandflies attacked me, evidently with the intention of eating me, so I pushed on. About three miles further on this road terminated at a sheep station called Glent.horn, belonging to Mr Murchison, o c Lake Coleridge. It was about 2 p.m. v.h-cr we

reached this sheep station; and found seven or eight musterers there. ■■ They invited us in -for.something; to eat, and we woro vsry glad to ;havo a. veal rough and ready meal, which we devoured with great relish. The muoterevs told: us that wo would find it nr.eesr.ary to return to Lake Coleridge again (16 miles), as we were hemmed in by mountains. The idea of going over the same road again was not at all pleaasnfc. and

before crossing the Harper River each one of us sustained punctures in the front tyres, the result of the African thorn, and when we got ofTi the river bed vra had a, picnic repairing punctures and makins orher adjustments, to the .machines. Altogether, I crossed the Harper River nine times, as a consequence my feet being somewhat bruised and sore. About 6.20 we arrived back at the homestead., and were greeted with the welcome words to lake our usual

beds, and that tea would bs ready in a few minutes. During the day I had warned my companions about the evil effects of drinking snow water, but t'te temptation was too great- for them. The result was that on the same night both felt very ill. Next morning I repaired two puretuxcs in one of my companion's tyres . and eight in nay own. As niy front tyre w"as '•-joking the worse for wear, I felt very dubious about reaching Greymouth before it broke up. One cf my companions here decided to return home, as he had had enough, and besides he did not feel fit. So my other companion and I made a start for Bealey (78 miles) —on the right road this time. —while the former made -for Rakaia and caught the train for Duriedin. Proceeding on, we had to climb a long, rough hill over an unformed road, through thick fog and light rain. We descended down steep, narrow, loose, and rough roads, which necessitated hanging on like grim death, as in many places there was a sheer drop over an embankment on one side of the road. After passing Lake Linden we came across the coach road which extends from Broken River to Otira. This road was a very good one. We descended two or three gruelling hills, which were very rocky and loose, and at the bottom of which was a small river. After passing through Caes wo encountered four coaches' coming down hill, and we had to dismount and stand by until they passed, the road being very narrow. In descending a hill at a good pace my mate ran into a sandy part of the road, coming a heavy cropper, which branded his arm with scrapes and ©cratches, besides which he sustained bruised and skinned hips through landing on a collapsible cup which he had in his pocket. A little further 'on he. bathed his wounds at I a stream. At 5.45 we reached the Glacier Hotel, Bealey, and after a hot bath and a good tea we felt very much better. Morning saw us starting off for Greymouth, and before leaving I had to ' repaii a couple of punctures. In addition to this the front tyre of my machine was beginning to break up, so I had to patch I it up with motor canvas and rubber patches. About half a mile from Bealey we came to the Waimakariri river-bed (about three-quarters of a mile across). I We waded through the river in two places, and also a few other smaller streams. On the other side of the- river is a telephonebox for the convenience of anyone wishing to ring up the hotel. Resuming our journey, we started through the Bealey Gorge towards Otira over very good roads and through gorgeous scenery. At this stage I very fortunately noticed a screw cap drop, off my pedal, for without it I would have required to pedal along on the spindle. On each side of the road l we noticed a number of huts, in rows, belonging to the ' men who are working at the Otira Gorge j tunnel. Further on we commenced to ascend a long hill through mist and light rain. Such weather is a feature of the Otira Gorge. In descending the hill on the other side, we had to walk —cycling was impossible, as the road was steep and narrow. I understand that the road is kept loose for horses and vehicles to grip. The bush in the gorge is very thick, with plenty of ferns, moss, musk, and fungi growing everywhere. There> is also a very fine waterfall at the side of.the read, where it has a sheer drop down two precipices. A creek at the foot of.the gorge is of a seagreen colour, producing a very pretty effect as it flows over the rocks. At 12.15 we arrived at Otira, where we had lunch. A short distance off is the other end of the tunnel in, course of construction. When finished, it will be five miles long, and to complete it the contractors are allowed live years. From Otira to Greymouth the ' roads are ideal for cycling, being practically level, though winding and turning all the way, with a great number of water races to be negotiated. The front tyre of my machine was now looking very "bad, and a big lump gave evidence of its presence by striking the inside of the forks at each rotation of the wheel, so I deflated the tyre and bound thick cord around it, thus remedying mattors considerably. Blackberries are growing everywhere on. the West Coast, and wo dismounted several times to _ appease our growing hunger. Kumara is about the roughest and most dilapidated place I have ever seen —everything in its vicinity looks abandoned and neglected." Greymouth was reached at 5.50. Next day it teemed in torrents, and continued so till the next evening. Oilskins and gum-boots are very necessary there when, it rains. At Greymouth (where, by the way, we stopped for three days) I procured a new tyre and overhauled my machine. We set off on a very fine morning for Lyell. Arriving at Reefton, we had refreshments ; the town was decorated for the Governor's visit, and when a few miles from Reefton we passed four coaches, one of which was conveying Lord Plunket to Reefton. A few miles further on my mate ran into a rut, which sent him sprawling across the road. For miles we passed through magnificent bush scenery, and arrived at Lyell at 6.30. Lyell is a 6mall gold mining town situated in a gorge. Some years ago the place flourished, but it is getting worked out now, consequently it is beginning to look somewhat akin to a wilderness. At 7.25 the following, morning we proceeded over many hills through fine bush scenery towards Nelson (106 miles). We bad - - descent over one big hill, which steep, the road being no wider tha„ a footpath, and the corners in particular very sharp. Being constantly on the alert was necessary to ensure one'e safety, for obstacles such as wood, rocks, ruts (to say nothing of a sheer drop over a steep embankment) had to be encountered. In some places in the Buller Valley we passed great tracts of burnt bush. _■ ..■ Arrivinaf at Hope . we had dinner at the.' accoinmcd--iti~n house. Resuming our j jout.no, vo climbed a winding hill called {

Hope- Saddle, two miles in length. A very fine vievr of tho surrounding country may bs had from the top. Passing Kohat-o (35 miles from Nelson), we went ever a "road" (save the ma.'rk!) for about three miles. To avoid a big rough hiil we walked through a railway tunnel tiiiTo-piaviers of. a mile long, pitch dark inside. At tho further end of the tunnel we rode about a mile on a suitable 'rack, thence we descended down a bank on to ah ideal cycling road. At Belgrove wo had tod. after which we had a smooth ride to Nelson, where we arrived in good order and condition. After being in Nelson a couple "of days, my companion and I parted ways. *(To be concluded next week.)