M0KOIA: THE SACRED ISLE

Otago Witness, Issue 2928, 27 April 1910, Page 81

M0KOIA: THE SACRED ISLE

By C. Douglas Tod. Everyone who has been to Rotorua has been struck by the beauty of the little wooded island which lies out in the lake about four miles from Eotorua. Many are acquainted with its connection with the history of Tutanekai and Hinemoa, one of the most romantic stories of old Maoridom; but few of those who are induced to spend a few hours on, the island are moved to inquire anything about it, except, perhaps, the most suitable place for a picnic. None the less, many imiportant events of Maori history have taken place there, and " tapu," or sacred, spots are numerous all over the island. This is the place where the great Arawa tribe made their last stand against the musket-armed myriads of Hongi, the Maori Napoleon, who swept down from the north, devastating the country and slaughtering the inhabitants with the terrible new weapons which he had obtained from the white man. Here, also, is kept the ancient stone god, Matua a Tonga, brought 600 years ago from Hawaiki, the potent charm of which ensures the success of crops of kumara which the fertile soil produces so abundantly. And here is to be seen the sacred pohutukawa tree of Hatupatu, together with many another holy place or relic of the brave days of old. Leaving the wharf at about 10 o'clock on a breezy morning, the writer and a Maori guide set out to spend the day on the island. The usually calm surface of the lake was ruffled by the wind into miniature waves, but Captain Emsley's brave little launch rode lightly over them, and running up under the lee of the land we stepped ashore on the western side. As we.make our way towards the settlements we encounter an ancient lady, who informs us that there are no men bn the island at present, although there are a number of women, digging potatoes, etc., and otherwise providing for the winter. My companion being well known to these, we are soon made welcome, and entering a whare we are regaled with watermelons in large quantities, and receive a warm invitatior to come back for lunch. As we make our way among the cultivations along the flat, where nearly 90 years ago the ovens of Ngapuhi prepared the Arawa dead for their last resting place, we pass a small wooden edifice which contains the kumara-god referred to previously. As there are no men on the island who know the whereabouts of the key, we have to content ourselves with examining the relic through the window. In itself it presents no great spectacle, but when one lemembers its history, one thinks over the generations of " noble savages " who have respected this symbol of a deity and trusted in the powers of the god whom it represents. We stroll, up the hall, scarred with the ma.'ks of ancient fortifications, and obtain a fine view across the lake, looking down towards Rotoiti. Descending again, we come to a little beach on' the northern side which is sacred to every Maori. Matariki is its name, and a short distance out in the lake is a flat rock, on which the priest *ised to stand when he greeted the returning warriors, the " pilgrims of Tu," the god of war. '. A yery interesting account of this ceremony is to be found in Mr James Cowan's new book, "The Maoris of New Zealand." Nea here Hongi's warriors landed, and the great chief had a narrow escar>e from death, his life being savei bv the " potae rino " (iron helmet) which King George had given to him during his visit to England. Qn returning lo the whare we find that lunch is ready. A splendid trout forms the piece de resistance, and the pakeha causes much amusement by his awkwardness in eating with his fingers. He turns thankfully to a cob of maize which is easier to manipulate, and his guide saves the situation by explaining that pakehas are endowed wtith a " miku iti " (small interior), thereby saving him from another wrestle with the fish and potatoes. After lunch we stroll down to see the war-canoe, Te Iroiro, which was one of the seven canoes in which the loyal Maoris of the Rotorua.district sailed down to Rotoiti to argue the question of Hauhauism with a rebellious section of the Ngati-Pikiao. A portion of this wakataua is past repair, but she lies on the bank with her nose jutting over the water as if she were musing over the good old diay3 when the lusty arms of the Ng-ati Uenukukopako warriors sent her flying over the lake to teacn the Hauhaiis that the reign of law arid order had begun. Times have changed since that morning, when the seven viak, of wrath were emptied on the heads of the Ngati-Pikiao; I know of no kinder or more straightforward Natives than the people of that harm. No visit to Mokoia would be complete without an inspection of Hinemoa's Bath. We had walked up the hill until we came to Kaiweka, the home of Tutanekai, whose Jifrase stood just where a patch of tipalms stands to-day. Here he and his friend Tiki were wont to sit on calm nights, making such sweet music that, as the old legend has it, the beautiful young chieftainess of Owhata was shaken as with an earthemake by her desire to go to him and to be his bride. Down a steep face, on the shore below, is a-beautiful little hot spring, whose surface jewelled witn the leaves of some wa.tsr-pla.nt. reflects the beauties of the trees and shrubs which grow around it. Into its warm waters the maiden stepped to rest after her long "swim across the cold moonlit lake; and here Tutanekai found her in the morning, half joyful, half ashamed, and whollv lovable. But now we hear. the... steadv beat of our launch's nroneller, and bidding good-bye to our kind: hosts, we are soon back in Rotorua, determined to repeat our visit as soon as possible.