FASHION NOTES FROM LONDON.

Otago Witness, Issue 2928, 27 April 1910, Page 74

FASHION NOTES FROM LONDON.

. (Fbom Odk Own Correspondent.) ■■■ ■ March 11. FOR USEFUL WEAR. For practical wear at this time of the year.there is nothing, to equal navy serge, and Londoners are themselves convinced of the fact, whether they are well-to-do or whether they are not. Therefore, all grades of the community are at the moment appearing in dark blue. The material • is usually serge of fine twill, though Cheviots and hopsacks are numerous—these latter however, are going to bo more patronised later on in the light colours which will presently be required. The serge, then, has a fine twill, and it ought to. be of a tone so dark as to be sca'reely distinguishable from black. Indeed, tlwre are times when its blueness is only made evident by tho presence of the black trimmings; so the contrast is small. There seems still to be quite a rage for black facings—collars, ouffs, revars—upon dark blue, and still is moire liked for the duty, though black merv is used at times for a change. A touch of colour can bo introduced if liked, and this at the moment takes the form of a waistbelfc of patent leather or cloth; nominally the belt is prefixed by the word "waist;" in reality it is frequently worn round about the hips. As noted a week ago, there must be a belt or part of a belt somewhere about the new coat, which _ forth© most part is a dapper and trim little garment, whether its basque is set in kilts or whether it is plain: whether it is cut high round the neck like a fitting dress bodice, or whether its neck is rounded out like a yoke. The lines of the fieuro are faithfully followed, and , altogether the orthodox spring coat is distinctly pleasing in appearance, Of course, there are freaks and exaggerations, but such a condition of things has become a necessity, particularly at the beginning of a season. Some of the spring coats ftra distinctly fanciful in character, notablv the Napoleonic model, which is made with the longest possible under-arm seams with riathM? small sleeves finished with con-, spiouous gauntlet cuffs, and with fronts

fastened with frogs and brass buttons to the neck. The leather belt which accompanies such a model is a soft one of 3in width, loosely run through an ornate buckle. Dark blue and buff are thus combined; so are black and pale cream, the latter forming lapel facings and upstanding collar, black being used as silk fringings. Then, again, elaborate tailormades are showing a great array of pipings, whioh are made over cords an inch thick. These pipings are used to outline curves, define trimmings, make a finish round the waist, and trim the skirt. But these - rather elaborate affairs are not worn in the morning. Far more simple altogether is the blue serge coat for useful occasions, worn with a neat little short skirt, which must be kilted somewhere; if. it is not kilted all round, then it is so arranged at either side with | plain baok and front sections, or set in j groups of kiltings at intervals all round. Such skirts stand out from the feet and | at once look trim. Underneath there is j lots of space for a petticoat, and "this | ought to be of satin, plainly fitting round the hips, and finished round the edge with finely kilted frill of considerable depth; I these satin petticoats axe quite the thing, I and they are to be had in all ooloui-s 1 and in all shades of colour to be an exact j match to the skirt. There are, even »n these enlightened I days, too many women in London who have altogether discarded the petticoat, and who are remaining faithful to the terrible looking skimpy skirt which is only wide enough to allow the smallest steps being taken; the wearer is hampered in her movement, and. she is an unpleasantly conspicuous person—one at whom everybody stares. Her skirt is so narrow that a petticoat would completely prevent any movement, sp she wears nothing underneath but a silk maillot. She is a walking caricature, and one regrets that there are so many immodest women to be met in the London streets; the fairly long coat of easy fit seems to be given an exaggerated amount of material in comparison with the tight. skirt 'underneath, and this incongruity seems still further to emphasise the narrowness of the skirt. If the latter were set in stitched kiltings for its whole length there would be some feature of redemption, but. it is nothing else than a plain strip of cloth or serge wholly unlinod. The patrons seem to admire the silhouette; the spectator resents it. Of course everyone i 3 well aware that slimness is still imperative if one wishes to be in the fashion, but there should be limits. No matter how naturally slim the figure, the wearer of one of these tight skirts can never look anything but ob-

jectionable. It is perfectly charming fe have the lines of the figure- followed, but there ought always to bo ample fulness introduced' into the walking skirt if easy and graceful movements are to be assured. There will presently be a tendency to tight-lace, and this will be a great pity. But some women have no idea of the sense of proportion, and they imagine that because a coat of a bodice is going to fit them like a glove it behoves them accordingly to squeeze themselves in and pinch the waist. The fitting coat is made with many seams; it seldom has the flat plastron effect which we have known so long. —The ColLarless Circular Yoke. It is not only the up-to date tailor who is favouring the rounded yoke effect, for the dressmaker seems to like it immensely. Sometimes it is cut only an inch or so away from the base of the neck, and the blouse or bodice is then oollarless, being! outlined with a lawn or embroidery or needle-run-net of the Peter Pan type. Newer is the " Gretchen" collar; its shape is similar; it is made of linen—natural or "coloured —with scalloped edges worked with button-hole stitch, and embroidered all over. Whether th« oollarless condition will be of long duration, one cannot yob say; it is sometimes becoming, but usually it is not. Smocking is being revived, and this, worked round the lowcut neck, provides ample material to form fulness on the bodice. A great many of thfc* one-piece morning dresses are thus made, and the smocking is again introduced at the waist, where it forms a high waistbelt; the sleeves, also, are smocked half way between shoulder and elbow, this again involving a quite perceptible amount of fulness to follow. The smocked sleeve is quite a change from the type to which we have been lon.j accustomed. On a smocked frock of zephyr or cashmere, a plastron of embroidery ruos down the front, | from yoka to hem, :he fulness and smock - Img coming in at the sides. The one-piece I dress is ready, in zephyr, muslin, linen, net, for the warm summer day, but it differs I from the ready-made of a year ago by being allowed more fulness round about the waist. This nead not always be used up in ordinary gathers, but in smocking, ior in narrow up-and-do vn tucks, from which the fulness flows. The majority are cut with a rounded yoke, which mayor may not have a high collar. In the | latter ease the Toby frill or Peter Pan I finish need not always be of lace, neither ! need it always be of cream or white. Some i of the Toby frills are made in spotted blue 1 and white marquisette or of mousseline-de-j soic of some dainty tone trimmed with the (narrowest ro.vs of velvet ribbon to corre- ! spond. —Minus the Shoulder Seam. — With the all-in-one oollarless dress "opportunity is often taken to display the bodice, which is cut without shoulder seam and with sleeves cut with the bodice with the single seam inside the arm. This class of bodice is trying, for it allows no fulness where fulness would be acceptable, and it encourages bagginess under the arms and about the waist This kimono or "magyar" shape characterises numerous all-in-one dresses as well as many blouses in eilk and satin and lace and muslin, and_ there is every prospect of a serious epidemic occurring at no great distance. The fastening of these bodices is at the back; tne oollarless state is cut in rounded shape, outlined with a turned-down Toby frill or : Peter Pan collar. Soft silk of the foulard' I variety, of which so many of these kimono ! bodices are made, seems to require fulness;, I the breadth of plain expanse across the 1 figure from shoulder to shoulder is trying. I The seamless shoulder is met with in I jackets, evening- cloaks, dressing-jackets', • tea-gowns,- etc. There are coloured umbrellas—navy, ' green, brown—with serviceable handles. i Sunshades are of: massive build throughcut ; the handles are excessively thick, and many arc- grotesque in the way of final design or ornament. Very many sunshades are of shantung in natural colour, embroidered in silk with a flight of birds. Others are of printed shantung finished with a deep-coloured border. A wide hanging fringe of silk depends all round the; more pretentious kinds, the silk strands being, knotted for several inches and then allowed to fall in a cascade to a depth of several more inches. Useful waistbelts are of suede, in colours to match every variety of tweed or hopsack. From each belt is slung a small suede purse, to be worn at the aide-front. ! Rather different is the travelling belt, of suede or leather, finished with a 'silver buckle; on either side of this fastener, affixed firmly to the belt itself, is a purseIt is a safe way. of carrying, gold—more secure than having it in a handbag. Since j I had occasion to mention its arrival some ! months ago it has grown immensely in 1 favour. i "Chmtecler" hatpins are new, a gorgeous rooster of silver or. gold, rearing itself forth in all its glory. The demand.for this design is, however, not likely to be great or its existence long. Rather a good idea is the hat-pin set, three : .n a box; no two pins are o£ equal length. Among the three there is one head, usually of coloured enamel, flat in shape. This is movable from one pin to j another, according .to the length of the ' one which will best fit the hat or toque ;to be worn. Excessively long pins are ' only needed to secure the hugely wide hats; the toque needs a shorter length. A little cap was brought out a short while ago to be" attached to the "business end" of the pin after it had penetrated the hat, but this seems to have disappeared for the time, preference being accorded to the pin-set of varying lengths. A French fad' seems to be the liking of gloves made of fancy grained skins, with markings of crocodile .or morocco. To the imagination the picture is rather appalling. These gloves are in all colours. Gloves generally are of all colours to match all fabrics. The season's neckwear is very dainty and in immense variety. White tulle bands and bows are new;_ more serviceable are the cascaded stocks of lace-trimmed lawn, for these wash well.