FASHION NOTES FROM LONDON.

Otago Witness, Issue 2915, 26 January 1910, Page 74

FASHION NOTES FROM LONDON.

(From Oue Own Correspond-hot.) December 10, 1909. Something About Sleeves. — Immense as is the variety of detail about modern sleeves—for day, evening, and cutdoor wear —so immense indeed that scarcely two pairs look alike, upon one point all agree, and that is in following closely the outline of the arm. Sleeves need not be skin-tight, although some of them are, but they must keep near to the shape of the arm. Some evening bodices, of course, have the merest apologies for arm-cover-ings, but they are rather the exception, for the most general evening sleeve is that ending well above the elbow, and being small and only slightly fulled from the shoulder to its termination. The small tight sleeve is more chic than the narrow strap or band of sparkling gem, but people with really prettily-shaped arms do not- take that detail into consideration, as they like to show all the arm, therefore they patronise the no-sleeve evening dress.. It is a period of "line" in dress generally, therefore the arm must be treated in accordance with general characteristics. It by no means follows, however, that the shapely sleeve shall be without fulness. There are gaugings and there are puffings, and there are tucks innumerablegoing down the arm, across it, and round it, in groupings and at regular intervals — but nothing is exaggerated. The "concertina" sleeve fits into the shoulders without fulness, is plain to the elbow, where the rucking begins and continues to the wrist, where it is finished off with an outlining of narrow fur. The "mitaine" sleeve is long and fitting, and it loaves very little visible of the wearer more than her fingers. There is an elbow sleeve for day and evening wear, cut in the Raglan manner, all in. one with the corsage. This is a curious application an the case of a dress or blouse, but is usual in the case of many outdoor coats, especially for country wear. It is a characteristic of many opera cloaks, too, just at the moment. Sleeves formed of three distinct materials and two utterly different trimmings may be considered as by no means out of the way this season, but care must be taken that each of the fabrics dees not overlap its ■neighbour. Sometimes the introduction of the lower half of the sleeve of fine cashmere is an improvement to a gown wholly of velvet, and in such a case a small inset of the cashmere appears at the neck as well, embroidered in silk. The "puff and cap sleeve" must always consist of two materials, if not of three; it is made in three sections. The fitting wrist-to-elbow portion is of tucked net perhaps. Immediately above this comes a puff of sprigged net duly finished with its own little "cuff," and above all there is the "cap" piece, which is of the dress material, and which {£ slightly fulled into the armhole, whence it hangs over the slight puff of the sprigged k "**£. The '>S a.»d cao" sleeve ia much

seen, and without the fitting ouff portion it just covers the elbow. There are sleeves which are closely tucked round the arm to just below the elbow, each tuck being emphasised by .a material-covered button. At the elbow there is a puff of silk or net introduced, and then the lowest portion, extending well over the hand, is in accord with the top part. Again, a sleeve of net or ninon or chiffon may have three rows o f corded gauging round the top of the arm to keen the somewhat generous allowance of fulness together. Then it bags to the elbow where a tight, and tucked cult covers the wrist. Such a cuff may consist of as many as 100 of the finest tucks ever seen. There is a blouse sleeve cut in one with the bodice and scalloped all i the way down the arm. Its middle porI tion is of lace, which forms a yoke and I pointed vest, and which covers the cutside of the arm all the way to the wrist without the vestige of -any seam or armhole. The sleeve for a severe tailor-made dress is generally quite plain, except for an outlining of braid or inset piping, and a procession of buttons down the back of the arm from the shoulder to the wrist. Sometimes the tailor will allow a little more width at the shoulder than has been usual, of late. This detail is indicative of a coming width that may rush to extremes and become excessive. There is the two-sided sleeves, which has its back of plain and more solid material than the rest, and this seems to come ove& the under portion in a protecting manner. The under portion is looped across the top cf the arm with straps or braids. The envelope style of sleeve, with one point over another, usually "buttoned," is a favourite, especially for tailor-mades. Then there is the encrusted sleeve with resplendent top, sometimes of two sides laced together ,vith cord, and with the lower sleeve of lace appearing from under it. It is considered that the prettiest of demitoilette are those which are made with the most absolute simplicity, and the most attractive feature of all is the construction of the sleeves. In cases where the dress is made of ninon over satin the satin manche is cut away at the elbow and hemmed with a band of gold or silver lace or one of sparkling bugle trimming, while the long, skin-tight oversleeve of ninon continues to a sharp mi tain© point, which falls to the knuckles. The same arrangement characterises the corsage, for the satin is cut away in a square or round to form as deep a decolletage as would be seen in the case of a full evening bodice, and over it the ninon is smoothly drawn without wrinkle or crease, until it is hollowed out in a tiny round at the throat. —No Collar Threatened. — Aooording to a correspondent in Vienna the collarless bodice is a foregone conclusion, for neckbands from an extreme height have been reduced to normal proportions. For some time they have been, invisible because they have been made merely of transparent chiffon or net. Certainly there are many "Peter Pan" collar-and-cuff sets which arc ready to add a necessary finish round the throat, but it is hardly likely that the no-collar drees will be patronised during the winter months. That collars are still to be here for a little time longer is evidenced by the fact that millions of yards of neck frillings are being sold, and their variety is wonderful. Many of the neck lisses have just a coloured silken thread introduced, and this must match the colour of the dress. The .vidth of neck frillings is more moderate than it was in the last summer, and it is hardly likely that it will be cast aside all in a moment. By the next summer we shall see. Further, it is chronicled from V'anna that with collarless blouses and frocks the hats will drop, and even the style of today points out that from the line strongly accentuated and inclining to turn upward reaction is bound to come and to expirees itself in drooping curves. Some Neckwear.— There are such lots of cravats and stocks and ties and neck-bows prepared for Christmas gifts. Many are of ribbon or crepe de chine; many are of net, and more still •are of lace. The majority of the stocks have high upstanding neckbands, the cravat portion meandering about in a cascade. Even some of the silk stocks finish off ini a cascade front of the silk, which is usually of a chine pattern, and the whole is outlined with bebe ribbon matching the most prominent shade in the silk; hence thia class alone is obtainable in. great variety. There are pretty cravats consisting of three separate pleating* of fine white net placed one above the other, and made in gradu- ' ated sizes, so that the narrowest of the ' three comes nearest the waist. Each frill is bordered with finely-kilted lace and outlined with gold thread, while in the middle of the collarband at the top there is a small lace bow, stiffly but invisibly wired to keep the loops in position. Stocka of white net with pleated fall have the lower part of the band outlined with coloured ribbon, which is tied in a little bow at the throat above .the falling cascade. For the one-sided frilled stock there ia great request, made of silk or net, or of lawn or lace. There 's a neckband, and from J* fal ™ a , ® tn P ot " material an inch wide. io the left side of this is attached an accordion-pleated frill, which gradually becomes narrower as it descends. Its popularity is curious, but then one-sided trills are liked on blouses, more and more being made in this way. Even washing blouses of figured delaine have a side frill of unwashable silk in dark colour. <<rS e ? e ,r a P l,et *y finish for the throat, the roby -kilted lace frilling with a pining of velvet at the top. This gives the" appearance of a collarles-s blouse, and yet it ia not nearly so trying ?s the cut-out chemisette, which leaves the throat uncovered. Very narrow folds of coloured velvet are in again as an outlining to the top of a drees collar and the changes are rung by the use of gold or silver tinsel or by coloured net. Now that fur is so much used it almost goes without saying that narrow bands of it should be found outlining jabo f s and oravate of net or lace or insertion, ■tails are at times introduced, as well as a border and skunk is the fur most used. * though sable ie admirable, and eo is ermine moio or seal—any flat fur, indeed'.