WANDERINGS IN WANAKA

Otago Witness, Issue 2914, 19 January 1910, Page 96

WANDERINGS IN WANAKA

By A. V. G. Chandler

Few places are more ideal for a pleasant holiday than lovely Wanaka, with its crystal lake and snow-capped mountains, its continuous sunshine and healthful breezes. None of us who have seen the “ Gem of the Emerald Islo ” desires to quarrel with the poet who declares that “Beauty’s home is Killarney.” But if that is so, we venture to think that beauty is often away from homo, and in her wanderings has lavished her favours upon New Zealand’s charming lakes, and left her handiwork in the little township nestling beneath the verdant willows and poplars at the foot of Wanaka’s waters. To reach this beauty-spot one has to journey via the tedious Central Otago railway, which, alas ! takes half an hour longer now than formerly to roach the present terminus—Clyde. Over nine hours to perform a journey of 140 miles! This in the twentieth century —the days of telephones, motors, and flying machines! Evidently the pioneers of the Upper Clutha are a patient and resigned race. The dusty goklmining capital of Otago was reached at 7.30 o’clock, after a twohours’ coach drive through the rugged gorge, by the side of the turgid, swiftflowing Molyneux. In Cromwell next day the thermometer registered 105dcg. in the shade. We were very glad to encounter a little breeze in the interminable dusty road the following day, and sincerely sympathised with the royal Pfcalmst when “ his soul and flesh fainted in a dry and thirsty land where no water was.” As a wise ruler he would have made more practical use of the proximity of the life-giving waters of the Clutha to the dry and thirsty land than do the “powers that be.” It struck newcomers as passing strange that farmers should disfigure their fences with the carcases of dried-up rabbits. Wo have seen them bung up in similar rows for sale in the London “ finishers’.” But here the skins and not the flesh are the marketable commodity. Surely the settlers do not expect travellers to buy or admire. And from our limited knowledge of rabbit inspectors, we can safely assert that they judgi a farmer’s rabbiting proclivities less by the ugly dried-up mummies decorating his fences than by the living bunnies scamperng to their numerous burrows. Hot and tired, wo arrived at Wanaka, and as the Bun gate punt was “up for repairs,” wo did not journey via Hawea, and so reached our destination before 4 o’clock. The lake looked very tempting to dusty travellers, and we therefore indulged in a swim in its clear waters, emerging cleaner and cooler—more especially the latter, for our teeth wore chattering as wc dressed. Wanaka Lake is a large one, 35 miles in length and averaging about three miles across. In some places the plumb-line has -revealed a depth of over 1000 ft, and it is estimated to have an area of 57,000 acres. A clean, shelving, shingly beach at the foot of the lake is very pleasant for bathers. Tourists are conveyed to the head of the lake in less than four hours, the township of Makarora being some five miles up the valley. Two large sheep stations have their beautiful homesteads situated on opposite sides of the Makarora River, and these, with sawmills and small farm settlements, provide occupation for a considterable community in this pretty and fertile valley. A good bridle track leads from Makarora through the rugged riverbeds and bush-clad hillsides over the Haast Pass to the West Coast. Comfortable Government huts are provided at half-way, and the journey to the coast can bo easily performed on horseback in two days. Speaking from previous experience, I. venture to say that a more delightful ride it would bo impossible to imagine. Dotted in Lake Wanaka are several pretty islands, such as the small, bushy Ruby Island, Manuka or Pigeon Island (the To Moa-a-Hou of the Maoris), and Orescent Island. The latter is locally called Ram Island, presumably because the erstwhile run-holder found it an inexpensive and naturally-fenced paddock for his stud sheep. These islands are under the control of the Wanaka Domain Board, which does not now allow the depositing of stock upon the islands. One of the most interesting trips we enjoyed was to Pigeon Island, which lies round the bend of the lake_ about 15 miles from Pembroke. If it received its modern name because the harmless Maori “ kuku made its homo there, all have now' deserted it, for not one did we see. Indeed, vandalism or carelessness has brought about the destruction of much of the native busn on the island, there being now few berries to supply the wants of the pretty native birds. There arc a few pigeons in evidence on Ram Island, where more bush remains to provide them with the shelter and feed they love. A small but excellent landingstage gives access to Pigeon Island, which is larger than one would imagine, covering an erea of over 100 acres. Though last year much of the scrub and undergrowth w r as burnt, this has been remedied by the spring growth of bracken, tutu, and grass. Indeed, Pigeon Island is quite a contrast in vegetation to the bare hills opposite, the cocksfoot grass standing quite 4ft to sft high. A few ratas were showing their gorgeous flowers, and the manuka, now in full bloom, filled the warm air with fragrance. Ripe gooseberries, too, were not at all unwelcome The superb view from the top of the island well repays one for the climb— Glcndhu, Minarets, Dublin Bay, Mount Alta standing out in clear outline in the blue setting of the lake, while the purple haze on the more distant hills provided a picturesque background. The pretty lake at the top of the island is quite a novelty. While the waters of Wanaka are 928 ft above sea level, this “ lake within a lake ” stands 480 ft higher ctill. It would be unwise to hazard a dogmatic opinion as to the origin of this novel lakelet, but, personally I “ ha’ me doota ” about the volcanic crater origin and the hydraulic theory. With a rook-bound bottom, there should bo sufficient surface water draining into the little lake to keep it supplied, the rain and dew being frequent enough to counteract evaporation- This seems jo a nonscientific observer a natural and sufficient explanation. Mystery is made of the fact that the Maoris called _ the lakelet Moutknu —“ the ebbing tide,” —because its waters rose and fell at intervals. This, however, is what might be expected with the alternating wot and dry seasons. There is an outlet from the lakelet into the Wanaka Late, but at the time of our

visit the water was too low to need an. overflow. Several mountain lagoons and lakes exist at high altitudes in the district one of considerable extent beingsituated at the top of the range between Makaroa and the Hop wood. All were so bent on enjoyment that wc hardly knew till later that wo had a honeymoon couple with us, as well as others who were tending in that direction! No doubt, •we made an affectionate and beautiful picture when, at lunch time, we were unexpectedly compelled to face the inevitable camera. I have no space in this article to tell of visits to the beautiful Hawea Lake, the views at the outlet of the river and from the picturesque bridge being specially fine. One could write a series of descriptions of our journey to the Neck, where glimpses of both lakes can bo obtained, or of the trips to the lovely bush at Makarora, or the sequestered Glendhu Bay and the rugged, scarped Matatapu River. Best of all, I think, was the superb drive through Glendhu and Cattle Fiat to Mount Aspiring. What forces itself upon one when traversing the dusty roads is that thousands of acres of splendid arable soil lie in close proximity to the magnificent stretches of the clear waters of the lakes and the forceful rush of the Clutha and Hawea Rivers. Yet, Hawea farmers have sometimes to drive their stock several miles to water, and just now many of the hoines have to obtain their drinking water by sledging it a considerable distance in barrels. That irrigation is a clamant need is impressed upon one throughout the whole day’s coaching to Cromwell, not only by the large areas of sun-baked land, but also by the green oases in the desert where energetic pioneers have carried out a limited scheme of irrigation. But the green patches a,re “ few and far between.” Yet, there is abundant water swiftly running to waste. We ought, at least, to have equal enterprise with the fellaheen of the Soudan, who, with rudely-constructed wheels, irrigates his parched land from the Nile. The same enterprise which covered the Ashburton County with hundreds of miles of water-races and settled it with prosperous farmers, would soon turn the Clutha Valley into a not unworthy section of “ God’s own country.” Surely, a few readings of iEsop’s “ Dog in the Manger ” fable by our Cabinet Ministers would not be inopportune. Looking supinely on, they express their unwillingness to allow private enterprise to exploit these valuable water-rights, and, though avowedly eager to attend to the need® of this long-suffer-ing district, they confess their inability, after many promises, to further these necessary undertakings at present.