ACROSS COOK STRAIT.

Otago Witness, Issue 2572, 1 July 1903, Page 83

ACROSS COOK STRAIT.

By Muriel Denovan,

About half-past 8 o'clock one drizzly night in Wellington tho decks of tho s.s. Wainui were crowded with passengers for tho run across the strait. Elbowing theu way pa3t each other, they hurried about looking after their possessions, or else paced up and down awaiting with some impatience the departure of the steamer.

The whop ■• ™i.o was one of bustle and activity. Stewpini and porters appeared laden with boxes and tiunks, which were followed by their owners, who strove in vain to keep tbeir belongings m «ight in the ever-increasing flow of people ; sailors passed along, making things ready for the voyage ; expresses clattered along the wharf with luggage , new arrivals shouted directions to thosa on tk« wharf alongside, and above all was heard the noiso and rattle of the winch as it lowered tha cargo into the hold

We sat a good distance away from the gangway and looked on at the bii3y scene with interest, hoping that all the crowd were not passengers, for the boat would be terribly crowded if they were. It, was rather cold up on deck, but it was better than bsing constantly in the way of luggage, and the busy tlirong below We passed tho time "us best W3 could by watching tho people around us, and gome of them afforded us considerable amusement. What a mixture seemed to have been brought togother at this busy time before Christmas! There were pompous old gentUsaen with their comfortable-looking \vive9-, two or thiee "scraggy" old men solacing themselves with their pipe»; family parties going to Wostjart or Greymouth ■for a, holiday, heie and there an excited father frantically clutching at two or threo children, and at the ?amo time directing the steward v.heri* to put his luggage, while behind him trailed his anxious wife, hushing the waning baby in her arms; business men strolled up and down,

glancing at their watches from time to time, and longing to be fairly off on their wuy; latecomers raised their voices iv protest when informed that they must shift as they could on the floor, as all the extra berths wore already, filled up; and last, but [not least, were tna groups of men bound> for the races at Greymouth. At the sigfit of these latter wegras^ *d' our handbags tighter, and inwardly resolved! never to travel again when the boats were so ciowded.

Tho wharf alongside soon presented a lively appearance when crowds of people gathered to see their friends off, and bit by bit the crowd! on board gr< • less as the steamer successively blew iier whistle preparatory to sailing. ftine o'clock came, and we were wondering why w« were not away, when wo fouud> out that tho s.s. Victoria, which we had come off that morning, and which was to leave before tha Wainui, was just leaving the opposite wharf, So we went up to the top deck to see her go. What ia lovely sight she was as she swung her bow round, and as ono side of bright lights passed and brought the other side into view! How we wished we could have continued our journey in her; but that was impossibTe, and we must needs ba content with the Wainui. The crowd on the wharf grew excited, and waved and shouted their farewells as we in our turn moved, away from the wharf. What a relief it was -to know that we were off at last! The cold wind increased as we passed out into the harbour, and soon drove us to seek the warmth of the saloon below, even, though it was crowded to discomfort. On learning that the regulations of the steamer did not allow supper when sailing so late in. the evening, we went hungry to our berths, but not to sleep, for bs our cabin opened on to the saloon, where the stewards were still improvising beds, and as a family consisting of a father, mother, thres little girls, and a baby boy were encamping for the night out* sida our door, you car imagine sleep was out of our powor.

The night wore away to the accompanying noise of swishing waves, engine throbs, and wails from a few babies. At 4 o'clock in tha morning I had had enough of it, and made my escape from the cabin a*> soon as I had dressed. Picking my way among prostrate figures, some snoring and others protesting that they did not mind being trodden on, I scon reached the deck, and took deep breaths of the cool morning air. In a few minutes mother joined me, and we paced, up and down together. Oh! what a boon it was to feel tha fresh wind blowing on our faces! We pitied! the poor creatures in the stuffy cabin we had left, and then lost ourselves in the enjoyment of the view.

The steamer was approaching the FrencK Pass, which loomed dark and mysterious ahead) in tho uncertain light. On ono side were the bare hills of D'Urville Island, whilo on tha other side similai hills stretched far away inland. As we got closer I took a snapshot of it, which turned out very well, considering the faint daylight. We went gradually slower and slower until we moved at a snail's pace, while a man was stationed forward to sound tho depth. Soon we were close enough to make out the little jetty and a tiny house witU a great window, where a lamp Was placed 5 . On we went between a beacon and the little; lighthouse, while not a soul was to be seen about the few cottages, and we passed through in a silence only broken by the tinkling of the bell in the engine room.

A quarter of an hour afterwards wo were well out to sea, and when the rest of ouu party appeared on deck the French Pass waa to be seen only as a small white gap between the island and the coast. Then to our dismay we remembered "Polorua Jack," and that we had forgotten to look for him as wo passed through I But we comforted ourselves witU the hope of seeing this wonderful fish on our return journey. What a long morning that' was, and how hungry we were! But tha steamer still ploughed her way through tha choppy sea, and it #as not until half-past 8 o'clock that we were able to satisiy our hunger, sharpenwl as it was by the long wait on the cold decks.

When we came up on deck after breakfast the shores of Nelson could be seen in tho distance, and ar it was now a warm and sunny morning we all went up on the poop and basked on deck chairs in the sun. Everybody's spirits seemed to mount up, and the children played happily about the deck. One little fellow sitting on his mother's knee was continually asking questions in a shrill voice that penetrated to where we were sitting. "Oh ! mummie, see the smoke come out of the waves!" he cried once, and set all the peopla within hearing laughing. The porpoises that splashed alongside in the water were another source of amusement, and it was very interesting lo see them jumping in and out of tho water. "There's one!" and "Look! seothatbig fellow'" exclaimed the people on all sides, as the ogilo fish raced each other and rose out of the watei, falling down again with great splashes. We were quite sorry when they at longfch dropped behind and wo saw them no more.

Meanwhile we were slowly but surely approaching Nelson, aud could now make oufc part of the little city, nestling at the foot of the hills, and even distinguish the spire of tho cathedral. It was a lovely scene in the calm morning. On our left were the hills, rising to higher ranges in the background, with the slopes near the sea dotted here and there with smp.ll settlements; ahead on the same side waa Nelson, while far away in tho dis-' tance, stretching from Nelson to Collingwood, was a noble range of high hills, wrapped in a dim haze that only added to their beauty. Behind us, steaming along under a thick cloud of black smoke, was the a.s. Upolu. and milea away behind her could be seen the French Pass, now a mere blotch in the distance. A little in front of us steamed the Mapourika, and wo all wondered which steamer would airive first at Nelson.

At last we stooped ouUide the Boulder Bank at Nelson, and after an hour's waiting for the tide a pilot boarded tho Wninui nnd steered us up the channel towards the whaif. Soon we found ourselves and our luggage standing on the jetty, amid the slight bustle and stir occasioned by the arrival of the steamer, and, saying " Good-bye " to our friends who had no further to go, we went in search of the little steamer Wairoa that was to carry ua on to Takaka.