OTAGO CENTRAL.

Otago Witness, Issue 2565, 13 May 1903, Page 55

OTAGO CENTRAL.

THE INTERIOR OF THE INTERIOR. (Bt Otje Special Repoetee.) V.— THE UPPER CLUTHA. "The phoenix, Hope, can wing her flight through the vast deserts of the skies, and still defying Fortune's spite, revive, and from her ashes rise," was a favourite passage of Cervantes; and th© people of the Upper Clutha still have hope of railway communication; but it is a hope that has been long deferred, and has sickened many hearts, -while the settlers still toil on and | struggle. To return for a brief space to territory mentioned in my previous articles, I may just mention another important feeder to a railway at Alexandra, and that is the Bald Hill Flat and Roxburgh district. The country there is well known as a fruitgrowing area, and not only the whole of Bald Hill Flat, but also the flat ground and hill slopes in the gorge, are eminently suitable, with irrigation, for fruit culture on a large scale. At Butcher's Gully there is a striking example in the garden of a Chinaman named Ah Bon, who grows three tons of strawberries— amongst the finest simples produced in New Zealand— every year, on a small plot of irrigated land. Practically the whole of this country, including the far-famed Teviot, would be tapped by a railway at Alexandra. This is also in the declared goldfield area, and soil which would be of inestimable value in the years to coma is being ruthlessly swept away into the river by the miners. j Passing on to Clyde again, the road enters th© celebrated Cromwell Gorge-, through which the surveyed route of the line has been taken. The same remarks apply to this gorge, for the hill slopes on either side oi the river might be transformed into smiling vineyards, producing their scores of tons of the finest wine and raisin grapes. Then another point suggets itself to me, and that is the ENORMOUS ELECTRICAL ENERGY running to waste in the mighty waters of the Father of Rivers, the grand Molyneux. With its steady, resistlee3 aweop the river is carrying through the deep gorge it has cut for iteelf during the long centuries a greater volume of water than is discharged by any other river in Australasia. Here Waipori, Taieri, or Lee Stream is dwarfed to insignificance by that ceaseless current which would, when Dunedin and Otago generally requires it, furnish 250,000 electrical horse-power with the greatest ease, and, in addition, irrigate the whole of Central Otago, for it is easily the superior of the historical Nile. Then Sir Julius Vogel's great dream might merge from the shadow into the substance, and the river be diverted in part from its ancient bed. Sir George Grey's great dream was a confederation of the South "Sea Islands; Vincent Pyke'a, commxinication from Dunedin to the •western sea, via the Haast Saddle; so why should someone not dream now of works snch as at Assouan, on. -the Nile, in the Clutha River, and of tne whole of Central Otago as one of the world's most fertile gardens, with electrical power provided sufficient to supply motive power to all machinery and lighting systems in the great interior, and still plenty to spare for Dun«din and other towns. A dream, yes, but quite within the bounds of possibility. ' CROMWELL. Cromwell is well known in gold mining history, situated as it is at the confluence of the great gold-bearing rivers Clutha and Kawarau. It is a borough of 640 acres, population from 750 to 800, buildings 190, ratepayers 130, rateable properties 235, assets £4778 9a 6d, and liabilities £2959 13s sd. The rates are fairly high, being Is 3d in the pound general rate, Is special water rate, and 2d special interest rate. Alexandra, Clyde, and Cromwell are all situated in the Vincent County, which stretches from Idaburn Valley ta Wanaka and Haw«a. Wanaka Lake and the country we3t towards Cardrona being in Lake County. I think the whole of Vincent County may be taken as served by the proposed railway route, and therefore its 6tatistiea may be of interest. The county embraces 258* square miles, it has 1148 ratepayers, 1198 rateable properties; its rateable value is £605,165, estimated population 4362, and its assets total £7040 18s 9d, and its liabilities (including loan) £3000 Is 3d. I found that the Cromwell hotelkoepers and storekeepers generally did not saem in favour of a railway ; they argued that the settlers of Hawea had a market in Cromwell for their produce, and there was no necessity for a line to Alexandra, a terminus at Lauder being sufficient for all requirement!-. I do not consider this argument, borne out by fact*. Cromwell might at present be a market for a large quantity of the Hawrea produce — though I find that * large quantity also comes to Dunedin, even in spite of the enormous difficulties the settlers have to contend with, — but it could never provide a market for the produce if the Wanaka and Hawea country was developed as it should be. Then a terminus at Lauder certainly does not even come within measurable distance of meeting requirements, for I think I have already shown that the Alexandra and Clyde districts more than justify a railway to Clyde. I can understand the attitude of the hotelkeepers. for. with a terminus at Lauder, it would just be n coach journey to Cromwell, and travellers perforce would be obliged to spend a uiriit there. Settlers. even in the immediate vicinity of Cromwell, however, are of very different opinion, and they say, with much more rpason, I contend, that a railway wonld make Cromwell ar> infinitely more important cpntre. However, if the Cromwell people do not want a railway, let a branch line, wit through Thomran's Gorge, by a tunnel, be constructed to Hawea. THE GREAT HAWEA PLAIN. From Cromwell I followed tho road to Wanaka, on the westorn eido of the river, and I rmist say, at the outset, that I saw no stretch of finer land in the whole tou>:. both for grain-growing and stock-raising. The great plain ie over 30 miles long, and the area' of agricultural land is not less than 150,000 acres, including -the Hawea, Tarras, and "Wanaka blocks ; while the Mount Barker block might also be included. This, of course, does not embrace all the agricultural land which would be served by a railway, for the Matukituki Valley, opening to Lake Wanaka, contains an area of 14,000 acres of land of a quality yielding nothing in point of agricultural capacity to the celebrated Taieri Plain, the Motntapu Valley (1000 acres), tho Makarora Valley (10, COD acres), and The Forks (4000 acres), all fplendid grain and grass land. After leaving Cromwell an immense area of the Kawarau

1 Valley is opened up on the left, and this is all fine agricultural country, bordered by important sheep stations. The drifting sand has covered a large area here, and I think it is high time the planting of marram grass ■was undertaken on an extensive scale. Close to the Pisa Range here is Mr Ritchie'e farm, and an inspection of the land there would convince Ihe mdst sceptical of the productive capacity of the soil. MOUNT PISA STATION. On the left of the road, then, practically to Wanaka is the Pisa Range, which, together with a large area of fine agricultural land, is included in the Pisa sheep station. Prior to the advent of the deetroyer-^-the rabbit — Pisa was one of the richest stations in the whole of the colony, but the pest reduced its sheep-carrying capacity to less than onehalf. Mr Scarfe, the manager, by a diligent crusade, aided by trapping, has now managed to clear the run to a remarkable extent, and as a result tho range is once more attaining its position as first-class sheep country, ar.d the quality and quantity of the vegetation for pasture is simply astonishing. To the right of the road was the river, but between the two there is a great area of land, and those who doubt the value of- irrigation, even after the evidence already put forward, have only to inspect some of the farms here to be quite convinced. RESULT 3OF IRRIGATION. I saw along that road some of the best grass, oats, and sheep produced in Otago. Small raoes, led from the mountain streams, spread the pure water out upon the soil, and the farmers have been richly rewarded for their enterprise, though they have only conducted irrigation on a very small scale. Beautiful fat crossbred sheep were grazing knee-deep in thick, luxuriant grass and clover, and there is no ground on either the Taieri or Tokomairiro Plains could produce a greater abundance of clover to the acre. The settlers here have an ideal situation ; their homestead plantations grow with astonishing rapidity and luxuriance, they have the clearest and purest water in Nature, and no water rates to pay, and their irrigated fields yield crop.? of wheat, oats, or barley from 60 to 80 bushels per acre. The contrast between irrigated and non-irrigated land is most strikingly exemplified here, for where water has not been laid on the grass is poor, dried up, and withered, providing little or no nutriment for stock. The land here is all of equal quality, but the settlement is on a very small scale comparatively, because there is do market for anything like extensive grain cropping. The farmers are obliged to be content with the email local market to a great extent, and consequently do not attempt to produce more- than will obtain for them a comfortable living. Even by the most rapid method of locomotion it is two days' journey from here to Dunedin. A midday halt was called at the Queensberry Inn, and a Test in the grateful shade of the cool, green trees was much appreciated, for the Central Otago sun was welcoming us with one of those hot, burning days which are so common in the great interior and uncommon on the seaboard. Here further striking •examples were afforded us of the fertility of the soil trader imsation ; but one place in the same district is like another, and I need not pau«o to describe in detail, but the drive through that beautiful country will ever remain a most pleasant memory. A MILLER'S OPINION. Shortly after leaving Qucenebery we reached Mr Anderson's roller mills. Mr Andereon expressed the opinion that the country did not justify a railway at all ; the land was poor except in one or two patches, amd the settlers had ample local market for their grain. A little further along the road I realised the reason of Mr Anderson's opposition, for a railway would spoil a very nice little monopoly. Growers of wheat are naturally obliged to take their produce to Mr Anderson's mill provided he pays a price for it which would show a profit on the cost of haulage to Cromwell or further, and in the same way as long as the flour io not too much per ton above the price at Cromwell the settlers and others of the whole of the Ha,wea and Wanaka districts will obtain their flour from Mr Anderson, who can thus reap a vtry good profit. Flounnilling pays, here ; this was examplified by Mr Anderson's higaly-eultivated farm, where I saw rich grass paddecks, carrying a very high average of sheep to the acre, ursd acres upon acres of rich, strong etubble, which could have yielded but little under 80 bushels of wheat por acre. This is one of the finest farms in the whole district, and tbis is the ground Mr Andewon describes as of poor quality.- It is well irrigated, and affordi? a spltmdid example of the value of irrigation in this region. Though Mr Anderson coneiders tho land of but little value, it may be mentioned that he applied for moro than the Crown Landa Department would grant. From this point a fine view was obtained of the beautiful terrace land on the other side of the river, in the Tarras bloc!f, with here rrid thero a comfortable homestead eneoonced amongst graceful poplar trees, and with the long, dark Morven Hills range as a background. LUGGATE TO WANAKA. The road still (skirting the majestic Pisa Range, we soon passed Luggate, a little settlement whero there in a punt and a hotel. Here I notioed a very fine orchard with many varieties of fruit Irens crowing in abundance. From Lueeato to Wanaka the country has practically the same characteristics as frnm Cromwell to Qneensberry, excellent land capable of producing any crop if the soil were irrigated. As that side of the valley closed in towards the lake I saw many tracM of the old moraines, for all this pTe-at plain was once a lake bed, originally hollowpd out by glacial action. Shortly after crowing the boundary line between Pisa and Wanaka Stations the Cardrona district ppr oared to th» left, with famous Mount Criffel bok'ly standing sentinel in the foreground. Then. aftT crossing a creek and passing the little F-ettlempnt (tt Al'MM'town, Mount lon, a blarfr obe-lisk of rock. iirn?e in front, and a little further nn ive obtained oitrht of beautiful, peaceful VTanaka. a fitting '■•nding t o our cay'.s nilgriniayo through the !>eat and fine, imnalnaUle., but ini-idtent. clui-t. On th* 1 right and left dark blun rrnjes, cloud capped, reared their hoary heads in majestic nomn-n-lence. while tho gathered waters of the plac-id lake crept in around the. f»ft of thoso noble folc'i? in peace. franquiiiiy. and beauty : -afar off appeared tl:o.«o t'.iintily beautiful lifrht/! of a s<-ttinpr puh behind mountains, glancing nn the gro?t peaks rrid losing tliemselvep in nprl'CToe in the bosom of the water-, dark F'a'Jnws c-ot.-cealod the reo r v~<"<i of th* qre-al <?r r?vine?, nnd ever all was that mysterious intaiiL' ib!i> ultramarine haze — Nature's vril — the Invath of tho. Earth Mother and (he ii.censo of the

mountains. In the foreground, set like a jewel in sapphire, was the little settlement of Pembroke, its buildings gleaming white in the dying sunbeams, and its many trees and graceful willows glorified by the dainty tinting of autumn — stretching down to the shingly beaches, surely one of the (noblest situations in the world. But even that splendid scenery does not satisfy all the feelings of hungry travellers, and after a decent Christian bath — a luxury we had not known for some days — we sat down to a splendid dinner at Mrs Russell's comfortable hotel, Fortunately for us it was Lent, and the delicious lake trout would have formed a sumptuous repast for the much-quoted gods at Eleusis. The photographer, whose sense of the artistio had been outraged by repeated photographing of unruly cattle, fat, sleepy sheep, irrigated pastures and extensive plains, which he vowed would mean a succession of " flat" negatives, now had his chance, and he went for sunset effects tantil the obliging camera must have been strained. A quiet, peaceful walk around to Wanaka Station homestead, from whence the panoramic grandeur in the faat fading lights could be justly appreciated, ended that day. AN OPINION OF WEIGHT. Next morning a new glory was added to those superb mountains, ever grand, but always more inspiring to-day than yesterday, for heavy cloud wreaths rolled lazily along the dark spurs ; but there was no time then for admiration of the scenery; I was looking for particulars of the trade and commercial possibilities of the district, and was Goon in conversation with Mr R. Macdougall, a well-known resident, and a member for that district m the Lake County Council. Mr Macdougall commented on tho fact that comparatively few tourists ever visited Wanaka, which had a great asset in its fscenic wealth ; indeed, the climate and scenery were unsurpassed, but travelling was expensive, and tourists as a general rule did not care to face the journey from Cromwell in the 3low, lumbering coach. There were a number of large cheep stations in the district r.md a considerable traffic in wool, but this industry was handicapped by the enormous distance runholders were obliged to cart the bales. Some years ago town lots had been offered for sale in Pembroke, and the placards issued by the Government contained a definite promise that the railway would be carried through to Hawea in 1884. Believing in that promise, and trusting to the honour of the Government, money had been invested by settlers in land and steamers were placed on the lake, Mr Macdougall himself investing £8000. A few years later there wae still no sign of a railway, and the value of sections was reduced to £5 by the Land Board, investors thereby having their capital depreciated onesixth and being eonfr-cmted with the fact that they had taken the Government at its word and paid £30 each for sections, while similar sections adjoining were now to be purchased for £5. There wa^ no better district in Central Otago for the growing of the peach and apricot. In favourable seasons grapes ripened well, but sometimes the froste militated agar'ast the successful cultivation of the vine. Mulberries and all stone fruits could be cultivated to perfection. He considered that a block of 20,000 acres on Hawea Flat would be the mcGfc productive land in the colony if water were led out over the ground. Mr Ui-sher, the district engineer, had give<n an opinion that for £1200 or £1500 an irrigation scheme could be carried out and the whole of this land -enormously enhanced in value and productive capacity. The initial cost, said Mr Macdougall, would be repaid by the land the first year. If Wanaka were known a/s it should be. and the railway accommodation promised by the Government were an accomplished fact, the shores of Wanaka would be dotted with villa residences where the wealthy people of the colony would spend a month or two in summer time. There were valuable timber areas at the head of the lake, where one sawmill was a.t- work, and the many great valleys contained a large acreapn of most valuable agricultural land, very little of which would require muc-h irrigation. Referring again to the subject of irrigation, Mr Maodougaul mentioned tha.t settlers were beginning to play the Cardrona River on a barren flat with mast excellent results, and the Redimerrt in the river from -the mining operations wa-s a valuable fertiliser. He was a firm believer in irrigation, and it mijrht be remembered that all the ancient oivilifatoions of the world were in tho de?<?rt lands, as R^vpt, Lybia. Palestine, and South America (the Aatew), for instance. The. water iwed in the chums on Mount Crirfol was allowed to run to waste into the river, while, a.fte-r it had left the mines, it could be brought down over mile? of the flat from Luggate to Wanaka. A line to the Lakes was urgent' v required, for without it the district could never be developed to any extent. A good means of affording tem.pora.rv relief would be to take the railway to Clyde, and put a good road through Thomson'^ Gorge , thus enabling the journey from the lake to Dunorlin, or vies versa, to ho made in one day. old cottage. With its high-pitched, thatched He had been fig-hting in the intercuts of that district sinos 1P62,1 P 62, and he thought it high time the Government afforded tho Bettler3 some rrliff. Younc people would not stay in the district with ks present disadvantages, and. whereas a few ydaivi ago the school children at Pc-mbroke numbered from 60 to 70. there were now only 30. It wai pcarcely possible to estimate the groat strides the whole district would make were a railway carried through ; the tourist traffic alone would be. an over-increasing consideration. If the Government could not manage to carry a railway "through at pr-v fit-nt. and the settlers were to resign them-ee-ives to another long wait, then the Clove.rnnrmnt migbi hand the Vincent Coun'y Council about £10,001) or £15,000 to make a thoroughly good road through Thomson's Gorge, so that a motor passenger car oou'.d be run through to the? lake. These are th? opinions of a man who has tho interest of ithe dirf.net at heart, and who has grown gre-y in the struggle to obtain recognition of its greai resource*. Readers may judgo whether Wam-.ka has received tho consideration from tiie Government ii should. Unfortnruvtelv. Mm" did not permit of a visit to the Matukituki Valley, ait tho foot of Mount Af-7>irir.y. or Moratanu or Makarora Valleys, hut the acreage given and the statement made by Mr Macclougail should give an idea of the resources Wanaka possesses in thes» valleys alone. Much of tho country surrounding Pembroke, and also a considerable area un th& lake, is emirMitly suited for fruit-growing. In Mia Ru=.-el'.'s garden I saw a number of fine fruit ti-pp*. and al.-o sf-veral mulberry trees, which had grown to an onormous size. One ol the finest farms in the whole colony

is just between Wanaka and Hawea. This is Mr Kingan's, at The Forks, embracing about 4-000 acres, where wheat averages 80 bushels to the acre in altnoat any year, and oats from 80 to 100 bushels. It seems to me the very height of absurdity for northern critics to attempt to decry the Wanaka and Hawea districts, but, unfortunately, their irresponsible statements are accepted by a House which knows no better, and meanwhile the settlers — the very backbone of the country, which is the proud boast of legislators both at Home and abroad — toil on and struggle. We hear so much in the debate on the Estimates from Ministerial benches of the necessity of opening up the country, of giving the settlers roads and bridges, and of developing the resources of the country, while trade commissioners vaunt our wares at Home ; and then the Minister sits down amidst the applause of his followers. Meanwhile one of the most valuable areas of agricultural land iv the whole colony lies comparatively unproductive. If the Government were dc-sirous of opening up the country and of developing the resources of New Zealand, it would have lent an ear to the wants of this district years ago. Were the same tract of country in America it would have been thickly populated now, and with fast express trains running throughout its entire length. Here no one scarcely even hears of it. but, I think, were it in Auckland, Weetland. or Canterbury, the whole Houps would have visited it over and over again long before now. There ia tho rioh land lying open ready for the williug brain and hand of the agriculturist, all the people ask is . a means of getting their produce to the natural and proper markets, and they will do the rest. The country I have mentioned in this article is only that on the western side of tne river; on the other is Hawea, and that will bo dealt with in the next issue. Upwards of IRO.OOO acres of agricultural land, capable of producing as heavy cropp as any other soil in the colony, and abundance of fruit in addition, and no reasonable means of conveying produce to its natural market ! Would such a condition of affairs be tolerated in any other part of the colony?