First Tbrongh the Tautuka Forest.

Otago Witness, Issue 2556, 11 March 1903, Page 14

First Tbrongh the Tautuka Forest.

TO THB EDITOE. Sir, — I notice in your issue of the 21st, as well as in that of tno 17th, some correspondence between Mr Mann and Mr Thomas Mackenzie as to who was first through the Tautuku forest, the former claiming to be the first along with, his party to go through the Tautuku bush 34- years ago,, and the latter with hi 3 p.'irty 17 years ago. Now neither of the partie-s can claim the priority of_ being either the first or second to accomplish that enterprise. Having made arrangements with parties at Home to send them a collection of the besi New Zealand ferns and other plants I considered worth sending, I obtained the assistance of Mr David Bower (gardener at Anderson's Bay) ah,d j Mr Jolly (gardener at the Water of Leith). i We made mae'e a good collection — mostly i of ferns — in the tush on the bay side" also ] up the Leith Yclley, on Maori and Pice Rills, and our search extended on to Port Chalmers and Blueskin. To mate tho collection still more complete I was advised to search the Cutlin's bush, and, with an assistant, I made provision, and we went with a sailing vessel to Port Molyneux: in the summer of 1860. Exploration was made along the coast line and through the interior of the bush to Catlin's River. Some species and varieties of ferns, and of trees and shrubs al°o, were obtained which had not been got in the former explorations near Dimedin. I had the opportunity of seeing 1 the O.vaka Flat in its original beauty, before i the. ruthless hands of the destroyers entered i it. I got the collections of plants forwarded ' to Port Chalmers and put into wooden cases. ( Some were packed in boxes, being by I measurement seven tons, and which were i sent by a wool ship. The 'Otago Witness described them as so many boxes filled with specimens of natural history. Early in the following summer (1861) I made preparations to explore from Catlin's River to the ToiTois, in the great bush, which is 45 miles from Port Molyneux to Toi-Tois, and it averages 12 miles inland from the sea coast. I found it difficult to get anyone to accompany me. A digger named Crozer had heard that gold had been found in tho Tantuku bush, and he resolved to go with me and try his luck. Having explored through the trackless bush to Catlin's River the season before, I knew my way to the fording place in the Owaka River, which I discovered the year before, and" I had .also crossed the Catlin's River above the lake, co that my way to there was not difficult. - It would occupy too" much of your space to • mention all the difficulties we had to contend with. My object was not to make a collection of plants then, but to see what I could get at a future time. I had promised to bring some small ironwood tree* (Metrosiderso lucicla) also some small kowhai (Sophora tetrantera) for Messrs John Hyde Harris, T. B. Gillies, Robert Chapman, and George Matthews. After getting to Toi-Tois | I collected the plants mentioned on our return journey. Some of them I got on the Owaka tide of Catlin't River. My mate found gold in several places, in some of which water was not convenient. Seeing the lonely life he would have to endure, even if he got payable gold, he resolved i not to stay. We went through Iho greater part of the bush between Catlin's River and the Toi-Tois, and in many "parts I saw a deal of very valuable timber. Fine specimens of large red pine (Dacrydium cupressimuml, of black and white pines, also kowhai, totara, and other large trees. The more rare ornamental trees I saw were the Podocarpus ferruginea, Libocedrus bidwillii, kamai (also called black birch), celery pine (Phylloeladus alpina), Pokako dentatus, ribbonwocd. Pittosporums (Eugenoides, the mest beautiful). The rata (iron tree), with it 3 red blossoms and myrtle leaves, was a delight to see. The kowhai (Sophora tetraptera) was also very beautiful. The more rare ferns I saw were Cyathea cunninghamii and C. dealbata— both scarce; Gleichenia hecistophylla, Asplenium aucidum (and others can be got of that kind), Lomaria antarctica. Adiantum polyodoa (rather scarce), Ilymenophyllums (many varieties, in preat abundance). Yodea superba, which was bo plentiful in the vicinity of Dunedin is very scarce there. All the other kinds which I have seen in the Middle Island are in abundance in the Catlin's bush.

The two Cunningham brothers, great explorers and botanists, after exploring in Australia came to New Zealand to explore, and we came to a nlace where their names .weju, out ftHt is tig had* jtf a iiftck p^uo

tree, where they must have been camped*. It was near a creek. Their names were readable, but the sap had partly closed the letters up, .and strong olefted sticks were- on the ground, which they must have used for cooking. Mr A. C. Purdie explored in the Tautuka bush to get a knowledge of the timber trees in it, after I was there, and his account was very favourable. Proceeding on our* journey, and getting within three miles of Catlin's River, I noticed some underwood saplings -had been broken over, and my mate noticed a boat on the ground, but he made no remark at 1 the time. A little farther on my mate saw a jaw bone with the teeth entire. I made the remark that some person must have perished here. We made a search, and a short way off we found a human skull partlycovered over with leaves; the cranium was large and well-formed, but marks, apparently made by the teeth of wild pigs or dogs, were on it, showing that it had been tampered with. Continuing our eearch some time, we could not find any other remains.I said -I would take the relics to Dunedin, and they were tied to the swag he carried ; but the string had broken, and they were lost. I waff not aware that Dr Schmidt hadr^ been lost in -that bushj and the remains we>< - found might possibly have been Ihis. The • Maoris had a dread of going into that bush; ■ and in. calm weather they used to go in-their . ci coes to Catlins' and Owaka Rivers to fish. , The Owaka joins the Catlin a. short -.distance * up. from the sea coast. .In my first explora*- ' tion. I passed (the .Maori, camping ground 'ftt the seaside, and Willsher's • Maori wife said : to me, "If you go into the big bush, -Yini you • take." This Yau of the Maoris -I understood' r to be some evil spirit that inhabited the bush. The Owaka flat, with the surrounding bush, was the most beautiful landscape scenery I had seen in that great bush. The beautiful slope of flowering shrubs ' (the names of which would make my letter too long to mention), the Clematis perviflorum climbing hish up on the -trees in the background, and hanging gracefully down ' the front, gave a picturesque beauty to - the scene. The next season after my last exploration Sir James Hector made -an exploring survey round the coast of the Middlo .Island, examining also inland for minerals, and gold. I advised him to .go up tho Catlins River with his small steamer and he would be delighted with the sight he would see in the- Owaka flat. He did go, J>nd so pleased was he with the scenery tha^he wrote letters which were published by the Otaco Witness. . Apologising for this long letter, which may be of interest to some of your many readers, —I am, etc., Gardexeb. . TO THE EDITOR. SiX, — The few remarks made by me at the launching of the boat at Tautuku .have . brought forth some very interesting reminiscences, the last being that of " Gardener" in your is3ue of to-day, which eclipses all - previous records. " Gardener" does not reveal hi 3 idmtity, but if he wishes to re- . main unknown perhaps, he will at ' 'least . exhibit specimens of * some" of his wonderful botanical discoveries — the • Lomaria- -antarctica, Adiattum. polyo- . don, ' and perhaps Clematis parviflorum. He tells us that he has explored • most of the Tautuku forest* and yet he makes his botr/ny contradict that statement, because he declares certain plants to be> scarce which everywhere abound. "Gardener" gives uo a careful account of his experiences in the vicinity of Catlin'a River, but just as we . expect ' to learn- from, his p«n something interesting about the then great unknown forest beyond, he suddenly leans away to Toi-Tois, a distance of over 50 miles, telling us that hia first trip was merely a preliminary, and that on hio return he collected the specimens he required. He is the first explorer I ever met who -reduced his bush distance by nearly a half. Alost men going for the first time through the forest primeval usually make tho opposite mistake. " Gardener' tells us that the distance from Port Molyneux to Toi-Tois is some 40 odd miles, whereas £0 is nearer the mark. He is, I thiak, labouring under a misapprehension regarding the late Mr A. C. Purdie exploring the Tautuku foreet. I knew that gontlemon well, and we often, were out together, yet he never mentioned! to me that he had been, through that bush". Be did, however, tell me of his visit to* Catlin's River bush and of his discovering a fern called Doodia there— a fact of which he w*s very proud, ■ . - Regarding the matter of who' was the first to go rigftt through- that forest from, end . 'to end, "it would be interesting to have .a \ clear record of actual work. Do r understand * " Gardener" .to say that, entering the bush 1 &i Cp.tlin's River, he_ continued his course right through that forest until Le reached [ Matauraj and came back aanin through' ihe . Tairt'uku buflh to. Catlin's River, making "a. collection,' and did not' use a boat beyond what he has stated?" If "Gardener" performed that work, then he is worthy of all commendation; and if that 13 so, surely it is a most singular thin?: that the Lands and Survey Department of Otago a<nd New Zealand were so ignorant of the topography of that country that it is only within the last 17 years — and that 25 years after "Gardener" says he was twice through,— that the fact has been noted 1 on their maps thai two Jarge rivers discharge into the ocean within five miles ofi each other. These early explorers should have been, generous enough to enlighten the authorities about their work. One would have liked to hear from " Gardener" hia experiences with these rivers—* the Tautuku and Tahakapo Rivers; — and, by the way, that recalls an incident of our trip which may be worth repeating. When .we reached Mr M'Farlane's homestead at Fortroae it was getting late, and Mr M'Farlane kindly told his housekeeper to give us % " feed." In the kitchen were about half j a dozen men — "old hands," — and they asked us where we came from, and we told them, when one "old hand" remarked,. "Why, I. was all through that bush 25 years ago; prospecting for gold and collecting botanical ■ specimens." We asked him how many big rivers he had met with. "Why one," he replied — "the Tautuku." "Did you nob cross another river," we asked, " larger than, the Tautukti, but with similar headlands-,, beaches, and estuaries? " " Who are you , getting at?" he replied. " There is only, one big river," he Gaid indignantly. " Well, we crossed two," was our rejoinder, and? then he observed, " Well, it's no use trying to bluff you fellows, although I have bluffed a good many. I was along that country — but it was mostly in a boat." — I am. etc , Thouas Mackenzie.