TO MANAPOURI, TE ANAU, AMD MILFORD, AND BACK OVERLAID.

Otago Witness, Issue 2556, 11 March 1903, Page 55

TO MANAPOURI, TE ANAU, AMD MILFORD, AND BACK OVERLAID.

SO. V. NOTES ON THE BIRD LIFE, &c, AND THE FLORA OF TE ANAU, MANAPOURI, AND MILFORD SOUND. Bt Geobge Fenwick. (Continued.)

The flora of the Clinton and Arthur Valleys, M'Kinnon's Pass, and Manapouri, and of the surrounding mountains when an altitude above the bush line is reached, well repays closeattention. The trees in the valleys are mainly birch of various*' kinds, interspersed with pine 3, rata, broadleaf, mountain ribbonwood, mapau, veronica, fuchsia, and several varieties of coproema. One of the red birches of which I took the measurement showed a girth of 22ft 6in. It is situated close to the water in a little cove at the head of Te Anau Lake, and come of its lower branches which stretch forth, over the beach would themselves make respectable-sized: trees. The broadleaf, which grows- abundantly in' the Valleys , and probably throughout the whole of the hush surrounding Te Ana** arid Manapouri Lakes, ia of a very inferior habit of growth to that generally found' in the Otago bush. The trea does not assume the usual robust form, but is composed of a 'number of more or loss slender branches, with leaves elongated and of a finer texture. As a broadleaf it is distinctly disappointing, and frequently looks more like one of the largeleaved copras-mas. The rata. was just coming into bloom during the time of our visit — January 14- to 25, — being well cut in many places by the latter, date. The mountain ribbonwood was not in. bloom, the flower* having only reached the bud stage. We did not see a single bloom on these trees" during the whole of the time we spent in theClinton and Arthur Valleys and at Milford . Sound. This is somewhat singular, for in Dunedin specimens in private gardens were at the time in full bloom.

Among the smaller plants, the native broom may be mentioned as being frequently met with along the track. Captain Duncau has a fine specimen, in full bloom in his garden at the foot of Te Anau Lake. The flowers are of a. light mauve shade, while those of some specimens- we saw in other places were white. On the track from the head of the lake to Mintaro the native violet and forget-me-not were common. Their flowers are both white. We found these sweet little flowers m other places on the walk to Milford. The native- crese also was common, and! many pretty little flowering plants carpeted the edges of the track. In the bush between GaYvey's and Mid Camp several orchids were found, including Gastrodia- Cunninghamii, with its singular black stem rising straight o.ut of the ground 1 . As we approached Lake Mintaro occasional plants -of the ranunculus Lyalli . and ce-lmisia. . showed' themselves, in the Tocky faces over which the waterfalls were streaming, and ; after passing Mintaro the swoet-scented' yellow and lemon coloured senecios were found. These herbaceous eenecios were in full' flower in the Email piece of flat land immediately beyond the Mintaro hut, and we subsequently found them in profusion on the track leading up to the- saddle on both th& Clinton and Arthur "Valley sides. As we ascended the steep traclr leading up to the saddle on the Clinton side, the ranunculus became more common, and shortly before, reaching the top there were some large patches in full bloom. They were hailed with exclamations of delight. In most places the plants had done flowering, but in the particular spots referred to the snow was just off them, and they were consequently late in blooming. A beautiful patch of oelmisiaa was also- met with before we had finished our climb, aad ranunculi, celmisias, senecios-, a>nd ourisias — the laxter in splendid, bloom — continued- to delight cur eyes until we had got well on towards the saddle, and subsequently on the track on the other side until the bush line was reached. On the pass the alpine-draco-phyllum, with its handsomely-topped branches, the leaves of a charming russet, was conspicuous; and before leaving the open ground of the western descent we saw several kinds of small veronicas, to be found only on the mountains. Just as we entered the track through the bush which leads to fhe Beech Huts— and a most delightful walk it proved— Rcsa directed my attention to a shrub growing to a height of about- 12ft. It had small, pointed, lanceolate- leave 3, the last 10 of 12 leaves on each, shoot a, bright red colour, giving the impression that the plant was flowering at the end of its shoots. The leaves are about one-third of aa inch, in length,, olive green above and light green beneath, and they grow close to the branch. The base of the* tree or shrub is devoid of small branches and leaves. It i 6 met with occasionally on either side of the pas 3at an altitude of about 2000 ft. Ross did not know the name of the plant, and I was unable to identify it, but I have since learned from. Mr Henry Matthews that ft ie Archeria Traveraii. It is described in Hooker's Flora of New Zealand. After leaving Beech Huts there was but little new in the flora to attract special attention beyond occasional pretty specimens of the eordiline indivisa and many fine patches of ferns, but the whole walk was extremely interesting and a delight from beginning to end to those of the party who took an interest in the wealth of plant life which, the forest solitudes and the mountain tracks of these far away regions disclosed. During a day which we spent in boating in Milford Sound we skirted the edge of Mitre Peak, and saw quantities of one of the oleatias in bloom. It looked something like 0. operina, a variety that is common in Dusky Sound, and of which I had specimens blooming thre year that were sent to me- by Mr R. Henry, of Resolution Island. The flowers of the Milford Sound plants, however, seemed to be much larger, and with a yellower centre than those of O» operina. On our return journey several members of our Darty climbed to the summit of Skelmoilie, a 6000 ft peak at the hack of Glade House, at the head of tho lake. They expressed themselves as delighted with the grailti panorama of forest and valley and suowy peaks to he seca from the top of tho mountains, or even from above the bush line, a point eapily reached by any fair walker. The whole district from the head of the lake to Milford Sound is full of interest to the botanist, and it is surprising that so splendid a field is not more generally visited

At Milford we noticed that the elderberry had been allowed to obtain a footing. Knowing what a weed this has become in our Town Belt, crushing out as it does our own beautiful native shrub, I trust tha* Sutherland and the guides will do their best to eradicate it before it becomes the undoubted curse it ia in other places. And the same remarks are applicable to the blackberry, which in many places on the West Coast has become a terrible nuisance. It should never be allowed to get a foothold in the Te Anau, Manapouri, Milford region.

NOTES ON THE TRACK.

The trip from Lumsden to Milford Sound is now much more easy of accomplishment than it was a few years since, and even for ladies of moderate walking powers there are no obstacles to making the trip, so long as reasonable time is taken. Taking Lumsden as the starting-point, there is a well-ap-pointed line of coaches (Crosbio's), with a first-class stamp of horses usetl in the service, and competent driving by the proprietors themselves A start is made after a comfortable night's rest and a capital breakfast at the hotel of which Mr Joseph Crosbie is proprietor. The drive to the foot of Lake Te Anau. certainly cannot be classed aa particularly interesting, the' entire • route being over treelessr plains, the monotony of travelling over which is only relieved as the day wears on.. by a fine view of-the. rugged peaks of the Takitimos and the mountains at the foot of Manapouri. ' I ought to say, however, that to a- geologist ii there- is much to interest and instruct. The :firet change of horses re made" about •20 miles from . Lumsden, the next at The Key, IB miles further, on, and distant 14 miles from ■ Marakura township, at the foot of Te Anau Lake. Refreshments are procurable at the hotel ,at The Key ; but the experience of bur "party there was not satisfactory, as we paid' 2s each for tea and bread and scones , — certainly of good quality — with the - usual accompaniments of butter ' and . cheese or jam.' The Key is so called be- ■ cause it is recognised as the entrance to the lake country, and it was not encouraging to find a distinct over-charge meeting us at what was practically the beginning of our experiences in the- lakes district. It ' turned out to be our only experience^ of the kind, however. Shortly after leaving The Key the Mararoa River is forded. We ■ were fortunate in finding- the river at ■ a ' moderate height, for it does not require - any stretch of the- imagination • to realise. ' that in time of flood the crossing; of the Mararoa must be attended with great difficulty, and at times even with considerable risk. There is, I consider, 1 no' more pressingwant in connection with the tourist traffic of the colony than a bridge over the- Mara- ' roa. The Government have rendered really , good service in their efforts to attract people to i the magnificent scenery and health resort 3 with which New Zealand has been bo generously endowed, arad- _ nowhere Mb ' the colony have they spent more lavishly 1 in this • connection than on the- track, from the head of Lake Te Anau to Milford

Sourid and in the cutting of tracks from.' the Lake to George- Sound and from Maoapouri .Lake to Smith Sound. -The. ...utility of these two last-mentioned tracks will no doubt Be proved in the future, but the money spent on- them . might ; have beets , applied .with greater advantage •in the meantime to ~ the bridging- of the Mararoa. Manapouri and Te Anau Lakes* . would then have- been reached with greater ease and lessr danger to- tourists. Itr is to ' be hoped the Government will not muck , longer delay the carrying' out b£ this very I necessary work. After crossing -the Mara- ■ roa tlie coach soon: reaches "The Wilder-

ness," a curious, desolate-lookimr patch of ground, with a miserable, -sandy-looking surface*, in which no- grass or other email vegetation seems to grow. It is, howevor, dotted' , over with stunted 1 bog pines (Daerydium Bld1 willii), and is known* to history as the spot" where a notornis was caught by a 'shepherd's dog and laid at his master's feet, the bird . subsequently finding its way to the- Dresden i Museum. Between The Wilderness 1 and the i foot of the hike the road passes' through an eitreinely poor piece of country, and bias 1 passengers in the coach are not sorry when Mrs Frasei's comfortable hostelry at the foot of the lake is reached. Here an excel; . lent dinner served in good style may Be • relied on, and comfortable accommodation for the night prepares tho traveller, if the weather be- fine, for a delightful trip up , the lake. The s.a. Tawera is an excellent 1 specimen of her class, and admirably suited for her work. Captain Sfenzres has just reason to be proud of his reliable little steamer, which presses on swiftly to her ; destination afr the head of the lake. Passing the- South and Middle Arms- grand and yet , grander scenery is unfolded until', m tEe • last few miles of the trip, the great mountains, with their enow-capped peaks and ; bush-clad sides, oTose around, and entering .The Narrows the steamer passes into a ■ land-locked bay at the head F of the lake, and ■ in a fevr minutes disembarks her passengers ; et the little wharf near tfie mbutli of the Clinton River. Here is the camp of the Government guides — D. and J. Ross, — and for ' three-quarters of a mile there is a "well-made track through the beech forest until Glade House (Garvey's) is reached. The visitor • can rely on getting every attention at tlie ! bamds of Mr and Mrs Garvey, and meals •served in a style hardly looked for in a spot so far away from business centres. Tourists who are not pressed for ' time and who desire to see the gjbriee of the Clinton Valley and M^EonnonV Pass ' under the most advantageous circumstances should undoubtedly stay for the "night a* Glade House. If they do not adopt this

. plan, but go on to Mid Camp instead, they have on, the- following- morning to walk to ,- Miataro Camp (six miles and ai-half)' before they begin, their climb to- the saddle,, and tiiis latter part of the day'a work, including the descent to the Beech. Hutsj is 1 not done 1 with such freshness, not is the time avail- ' able, on the top of the pass so long, as- when ' the walk from Mintaro to BeecK Bute ia

made the day's work. The- track from Gfarrey's to Mintaro is good. The gain In altitude from the one point to the other is about 1200 ft, this being, almost entirely on the Mid Camp-Mintaro section. The track after leaving Mintaro is also good, a zig-zag path having been made right to the top of the pass, with a well-defined track cut across- the saddle and down the other side into the Arthur Valley. This latter part of the track at the time of our trip had been knocked about through one or two great slips, and was in several places covered with the snow and debris tha* had accumulated during tho wintep and spring. Repairs to the track were being effected by men in the employment of our guide (Mr D. Rose) and his brother, who have the contract for this work. The descent is coon made and the Beecb Huts" reached.

after seeing a most glorious panorama o\ , snow-clad mountains. At Mintaro and Beech;Huts the guides are unremitting in theis attention to ti ~-se who have placed them-: selves under their charge, and, considering] the difficulties under which they labour," the meala that are prepared are all that 1 could reasonably be expected. From Beech! Huts to Milford Sound is a stretch of 13 miles easy walkiug' if the whole distance id done on foot ; but a savjng of five miles can be effected by taking the boat at the< •upper landing on the Arthur .River, and! proceeding by that means down the river, 'and across Lake Ada. Those who do ■ this, however, miss 'seeing the splendid Giants' Gate Fall, the view of whiolt is alone "well -worth the " extra ,walk< ing "iuvoLVedt After - ending ".the wal): th&re' , are - about two . miles of - boating before Sutherland's is reached, the boat being-, however, superseded; since- tEe "date of our visit by Sutherland'svnew'.'oiklaulush. Here, again, visitors- get 'very -comfortable accommodation. Mrs Sutherland . provides an excellent table, and is very; attentive "to her visitors, who realise- . that:* - there is, after all, nothing' very formidable 1 : in. the overland trip- to Milford Sound. It is true that on "the return they . i have.' a climb- of an extra- " thousand ' feet or as compared . witt' the. ascent on the Clinton Valley side, But ifiey now feel that- they can" do- it without much , trouble. Those who do tie walk .may here , be recommended not to make-" their knap* ' sack, containing, changes of underclothing, etc., too heavy. Every "pound tells in,mountain, climbing. . They should providethemselves with sandfly veils' and gloves, a pair of slippers, and those- little' toilet necessaries which are indispensable, and for the- rest leave their impedimenta at the head of the lake to be picked up on the^ .return. , - ' • Table or Distances. MUsa.Lumsden to The Key, at Mararoa. crossing- , ~.. 34 The Key to foot o£ Lake Te Anau. .. ..,. lfl Foot. of Lake to Head v~. .:..:. 40 Head to. Gaxvev's .. - i Garvey's io Mid Camp, Clinton Valley.. 6 Mid Camp to Mintmro, Lake. r 6$ Mintaro to top of the M'Kinnon Saddle 2} Top of Saddle to Beech Huts, Artiiur Valley 4 Beech Huts to- Prison Camp .... '. . 13 Fiiion Camp to Sutherland's, Milford Sound, by boat " „2 127 " Kotes.— (») For those who go, with the guides. (Messrs D. and J. Boas) a boat. is taken.' down Lake Ada, which cuts off five mile* of the walk from the Beech Huts to Prison. Camp, tho terminal point before taking; 'the boat for the two 'miles to Sn&er-* ' land's. If the boat is taken; down Lake; 'Ad* tha- Gianf a Gate Fait is not seen. A' view of this latter fall, wit& a splendid _ -pool of green-tinged -water ~into> which, itpours, should not be missed- ' •.:••- (b) Prison Camp ia so' called because, the - party of prisoners who- made a good deal, of the tract were housed at-thi»:parti-culax spot. .Ii iff situated ob a point ol , .land jutting into- the Arthur River, where the boat or launch is taken for tEe lasb . two' miles to Sutherland's- . ; - - (c) Tie distances, in the above table "may. he '"i akeh t as" accurate." ' They were mainly .supplied to me. by Mr -D.- Roas._ The distance of 40 miles from the foot to the head of the lake is that usually accepted, but 42 miles was given to me as" the "distance by Captain. Menzies, of the s.s. ; Tawcra, and the- measurement ~wma idken by means of a patent log lent to him for the purpqse by the Union S.S. Co. List of Railway, Coach, asd Steamer - Fares, &c. ■ Dunedin to Lxunsden, irain, first- . class, return. ....£192 . Lumsden to Te Anau, coach, return. . -2. 0 0 Foot of Lake to Head, steamer, re- , turn 110 0Guideta fee. to Milford Sound,, return,, each _. ♦„ .: „.10 9 Hotel and accommodation '.house . ' " charges,." including expenses at 'the huta r say w .. ... ._" .'. .. .'. " 6- 0 O To Anau to Manapouri, coach .. 0' 10 0 Steamer on the Lake and board, say.. 210 0 , ; £U 19 ,* Notes.— (o> I£ preferred the distance from Manapouri to Te Anau, or vice versa, • may be walked, and 10s thus saved. - For. those who include both Manapouri and Te Anau in. this trip — and everyone who can. spare the time should certainly do so — it may be recommended to the Muna- '_ pouri first. ' .- * (b) When a party of not less than. Ilia made - ' up they nre entitled, under arrangement ' -with the management, th see -days' , notice .." , being- required, to travel by rail first-class- . . 1 on payment of second-class fstr», and. a.. , " saving of lls 4d each, on the fare to- Lumsden is thus effected. "With tins, and the saving- by walking from- Manapouri to ' Lumsden, the ccst of the whole: trip may . be- stated as £14 each. ' .