ILLUSTRATED FASHIONS.

Otago Witness, Issue 2528, 27 August 1902, Page 63

ILLUSTRATED FASHIONS.

Dear Emmeline, — There are some charming folia-go hats to be encountered this season_ in an afternoon's walk, and one which excited my wannest admiration recently wag composed of foliage and Chantilly laoe, all Blcilfnlly intermingled, with the most charming result imaginable. As is the case in so many of the best And most fascinating samples of millinery, a charming effect was given by a velvet bow at the back of a rather darker shade than the foliage, the result being altoge-ther admirable. Chantilly lace plays rather a prominent part in many of the prettiest hats this season, and a quaint sample I recently viewed respectfully as it reposed on the well-dressed coiffure of one of the best-dressed women in London favoured the Marie Antoinette shape. It was enveloped in Chantilly lace of the best description, which fell in a picturesque fashion over the hair. It is extraordinary how femininity have decided to adopt the bow and ends of lace or ribbon ; or, in some instances, flowers, which fall either in the centre, back, or 6iightly to the left side down the hair to the shoulders. In some instances this mode is carried to an extreme, and loops and ends of blaekr velvet ribbon not only fall on to the shoulders, but extend- to the waistline. It must, however, be admitted by all that there is something rather outre about this mode

which will prevent it from attaining to the highest point of favour in the estimation of the most cultured women. The pretty hat sketched is of a simple design" and particularly well suited for v. ear duriDq the earlier hours of the day, provided the nearer resides in a fashionable suburb of a large city, otherwise it is sufficiently smart to do duty at any hour of the day, except for the most festive occasions. The straw is of a light fancy description, curved aud bent to suit the face, and .kept from drooping in an unbscoming and awkward manner by a skilfully arranged interthreading -of wire, covered with silk to match exactly tho tone of the straw. The trimminpc consists of ahot pink foulard patterned with pink tastefully puffed and swathed. One very pretty French hat I recently admired had its crown swathed with lace and silk; but what particularly attracted my attention was the fact that instead of tacking the trimming in place with a few careless etitche 5 , prail headed and small jewelled pins wore employed, the result being quite sufficient firmness, combined with a careless -*graeo which was undoubtedly the acme -of perfection. Indeed, really skilful fingers should be able to place the trimmings of a smart Tiat in correctly with only the aid of a few pins, and tho advantage of having those of an ornamental nature is obvioup, as very often one makes a greater success at the first attempt than when more time and pains are expended. A pretty costume is here depictal. designed of black voile arranged ovtr clime Bilk, trimmed and inserted with twinccoloured lace. Tho gov. n which formed the original of the sketch was one which had

done good sen ice dining the preceding months, but with a little additional trimming, emerged into all Uio beauty of a really charming as well as useful toilet. The collar of the dress is of original deeign. which would look equally well on a loose blouse. The law niFertion. as well as forming the bordering of the c-ollar, i» employed for the chemisette- with its transparent collar, and for the sleeves The skirt is aUo adorned with the lace both as an insertion and for a border, and as it is in e\ery ca°s easily detached to bo cleansed, its merits are at c:;ee discernible. I have been much struck with the evolution of the underskirt, or petticoat (as it ns^d to b& termed), which this season is so delightful a garment a-s to create a doubt as to conceaJmg "its beauties beneath the still more charming toilet which generally shrouds its choiins. The pretty specimen sketched is particularly suited for summer weir, a« it is rrad© en princesse. the gkirt bciwj continued upwmrdfc in very muoh the game fashion as a Swiss belt, two small Btraps crossing the shoulders and 'so keeping the upper portion in place. The skirt is of greater .length than usual, and so can be Horn iiad«r au unliaed mujli& s>t iftee pm-

tume. It is best to have such a piece of dress made specially, as the ready-made articles will neither wear nor fit _so well. Some girls make a dainty and rather fussy frill or flounce of muslin lace trimmed and inserted, which, indeed, to be correct should have a profusion of lace frills. This is attached to the underskirt by buttons and buttonholes, bo that it can be \ery quickly

detached. I always advise anyone who seeks advico to buy a really good silk underskirt, as it is a good investment. If (as is often the case) it is unhned, either remedy this fault yourself, or get it done for you, aa the lining of sateen or eien muslin will make the skirt wear twice as long, and therofore more than repay the trouble and time expended on so doing. Some people nowadays contider the lacey petticoat has fallen from its position by leason of common imitation^, and have substituted embroidery in its place. — Your- truly. COQUETTE.