ILLUSTRATED FASHIONS.

Otago Witness, Issue 2513, 14 May 1902, Page 63

ILLUSTRATED FASHIONS.

LONDON, February 1. Dear Emmeline,— The last two seasons in the world of dress have brought with them little or no change in the prevailing modes, bo we may now reckon confidently that the sartorial authorities are at present busy evolving something fresh wherewith to relieve the monotony of things generally, and gladden our eyes when the spring fashions make their debut. Little or nothing of these innovations wall, however, be seen before the end of February, so that until then there is nothing to do but to possess our souls in patience till such time as Madame la Mode condescends to favour her votaries with a glimpse of the visible form her vagaries have token. A whisper, however, has somehow gone abroad that the leaning towards all that is picturesque in dress will be still more pronounced, and will partake of the period of Louis XV, when rich brocaded materials and elaborate lace frills were de rigucur. Both the colours and fabrics employed must be rich, and gold and silver embroidery used to further enhance the gorgeous effect. Brocaded coats with lace jabots and ruffles are therefore likely to be much- en evidence this spring, while, a3 a consequence, our skirts must perforce be fuller -,than heretofore. It is certainly with regret that we shall relinquieh the clinging skirt falling in full folds round the feet, as it certainly had the effect of enhancing the figure and emphasising all the- most graceful lines and curves. Velvet continues to advance in fashionable estimation, and for the next few months will be enormously worn, only, of course, to be laid aside when, spring sunshine comes to warm tad' brighten everything. \Et is strange how some fashions never seem to die out altogether, in spite of the constant changes in dress, and one of the

most notable instances of this is the accordion or knife-pleated skirt, which, although kept rather in the background . during the height of the popularity of the tight skirt, •was never actually considered demode. The charming evening toilette given in my sketch shows an evening gown of pleisse black crepe de chin© trimmed with lace applique of a deep cream tint, a spray of deep, richtoned, red roses gracing the left side of the deoolletage, the mousseline streamers attached being tipped with roses at the end. •• The skirt is simply accordion-pleated over silk. This etyle of skirt is particularly becoming to slim figures, and adaptable to the thinner materials, such as mousseline, chiffon, or crepe de chine. A skirt such as illustrated is equally suited to afternoon or evening wear, and this faot 6hould enhance its •value in the eyes of the economically-minded girl, or to anyone, indeed, who has to keep up a smart appearance on an exceedingly limited dress allowance. It only requires, that for afternoon wear a handsome blouse or habit- vestes, a3 the Parisiennee term them, should be worn, the latter being the latest form of a Bhort coatee which fits the figure closely, the fronts opening to show a fussy arrangement of lace, chiffon, or siik, or a combination of all three. This illustration, inves a tjood idoa of what- such should be. In this instance a

black brocade, patterned softly but richly in piok, and a- faint green floral pattern is selected for its construction, aa a material which in the main harmonises with the black 'skirt arid yet has a note of colour to rendec it distinctive. The front is trimmed ■with lace over accordian-pleated chiffon, while a ohou of pink emphasises the tones of the brocade, and a little knot of black velvet ribbon at the waist is lightened by a brilliant buckle. The coat is, of course, suited, to a matron, and not to a young: girl, as the materials and style are too handsome, for youth demands as much simplicity as possible. A charming curve is given to the figure by the cutting away of the fronts, ■which, are finished in the centre of the back pleats by two- small buttons which match the ornamental buckle.

This really elegant hat might be termed le dernier cri, for it cornea direct from Paris and is tlie very latest thing in the world of_ milinery. The brim thereof is made entirely of soft green moss veiled with cream lace, which is also drawn over the crown, a cache-peign© of black velvet ribbon falling on the hair behind, while a coquettish little bunch of pink moss roses nestles under the brim at one side. This intermingling of moss and chiffon, lace and flowers is altogether novel, and has a charmingly soft and pretty effect. The most

fashionable French hats are all of the flat order, and take a dip in the centre front over the face in a style which somehow or other is eminently becoming to a French girl, but is not always so to the faces on this side of the Channel. I have, however, seen some very smart millinery creations of t!ii3 vogue worn with great success here. — Yours truly, COQUETTE.