ILLUSTRATED FASHIONS.

Otago Witness, Issue 2429, 3 October 1900, Page 61

ILLUSTRATED FASHIONS.

Dear iimmeline,— -ITor an everyday skirt there is nothing so really admirable as the box-pleated style, which, wiien made of thin material, is all the better for a graduated frill at the hem or a series of flounces headed l>y rows of lace insertion, the otherwise somewhat trying severity of the mode being thereby softened and rendered more becoming to the majority of figures. Pleated, gauged, or gathered skirts are charming for, voile and thin semi-transparent materials of all descriptions, but in. most instances, whatever the fabric employed may be, the front breadth is left perfectly plain. It is best to consider careful" y the qualities of the material one has to work on before laying down the law as to how a dress is to be made, and it may be ■useful to remember that that most fashionable and really delightful fabric, satin-faced fou-

lard, does not lend itself so kindly to "oing gauged or gathered, but pleats admiiahb. The advent of the shortened skirt is prop he sled, but whether this will be as grcl ,vi advantage as at first sight it appears is doubtful. The fashionable trained skirt of to-day can be easily and gracefully upheld from tho mud and dust of the streets, but the skirt of a length to touch the ground all round evolves itself into a regular street cleanser, as the wearer generally never attempts to prevent it from touching the pavement. The most sensible plan is to Fee that the skirt is either fashioned sufficiently short., to lender it mi-

necessary to trouble about lifting it, or, if a more fashionable mode is desired, allowed to attain to the dimensions of a short train. The smart gown depicted here is of scarlet Irish linen ; the collar, curl's, belt, and band of insertion on the skirt are of black and white striped silk, a black crepe tie being knotted in front, and a little white silk frill finishing the edo;e of the collar. The design makes a charming boating costume, and would look equally well and even in ore tip-to-date cairied out in yellow, a colour dearly beloved at prosent by the fair Parisiennes, though perhaps a, little startling to our quieter tastes. To a clear-skinned brunette and certain blondes, yellow is a most becoming colour, and the touches of black rendtr it only the more effective and entrancing. A vest of Irish lace might be substituted for that of white silk with excellent results. Everything Irish is so much in evidence ju3t now that it seems well-

nigh incomprehensible that the charms of Irish linen phouid have been so long overlooked. This material can be obtained in some exquisite shades of nwuves, greens, avid blues.' Irish laco is very much used as a trimming on these gowns, particularly the old rose Irish point.

Black hats are much worn, whether the trimming is restricted to black or of a more summery character. The charming mode illustrated is of fine black chip, the magnificent ostrich feathers being shaded from the softest, palest heliotrope to a deep violet, swathings of net spotted with black chenille surrounding the crown. With it is worn one of the tulle boas or ruffles which many women consider an essential part of the toilette, and which appear under many guise?. The majority of these are finished, with long strands of chenille, and the effect of a white ruffle

on a- dark costume most certainly adds lo the appearance and makes il a much more dressytoilette.

My sketch, shows a gown as simple as it is charming, its evolution being a ta-rk well within the powers of the homo dressmaker. It is made of eatin-faced foulard of a deep, dark rich blue, covered silk. piu-poin,t skits

-' oi-i, tun! fl.ov = a collar and cuffs of whits ;.!•'■> ,itml in" l'n. die front, cuffs, and sa«h bfi^q i.)"i>ol ci '-oft white silk. With il is v i,t lid! hn<M with white chiffon and uiiuuiCtl 'i\it' <cr-r~, shading from pink to crimson, a white s.Lk sunshade completing the toilette. There are many pretty novelties this year, giving plenty of opportunities to girls with clever fingers to manufacture them lor themselves. Among these may be included the beautiful tevm collars traced with exquisite embroidery, which are worn with linen pud foulard gowns. These are generally made square at the back, nairowing over the bust till they disappear in a point at Hie waist. The addition of one of these to a last year's dres3 will be found to bring it marvellously up to date. The fichu is a very popular article of attire, of which we are destined to see much this summer, and its ap pearance adds greatly to the picluiesqueness of dress affected this season, besides smartening uu many an old bodice. In order, however, to prove a thing of beauty a fichu requhes careful adjustment, and must be properly shaped at the neck and given sufficient spring at the shoulder?, or the effect will bo clumsy in the extreme. Finely-embroidered lawn, is an excellent material for such a purpose, though I have seen some very lovely fichus of real or remarkably good imitation lace.— Tours truly, COQUETTK