ILLUSTRATED FASHIONS.

Otago Witness, Issue 2427, 19 September 1900, Page 60

ILLUSTRATED FASHIONS.

Dear Emmeline, — Among the most graceful gowns of present popularity the" Princesse undoubtedly hojds .its own, and no style is more fitted to display the pretty outlines and curves of a slender yet well-rounded figure than this. Unior.tuiiately it is not only the' lucky possessor of a good figure who affects this mode, but one's sense of propriety ia often sorely taxed by the appearance of some short and exceedingly adipose dame, blissfully" unconscious .of the fact that the outlines of hep c n ress make the spectator tremble Jor the ultimate result o£ the very, evident strain put upon the seams by hei superabundant charms. It is an undeniable iaet that some women caui never understand there may be some insupeiable difficulty which bars them from, adopting what at the time may be le dernier cri, even though thsir dearest friend looks chanring thus clad. I luue seen many women whose personal olaijn3 tQ acUaa

beauty were exceedingly small, and yet they never failed to present an attractive appearance, and even outshone their good-looking sisters, owing to the good taste and smart arrangement of their toilettes. The woman whose gown seems part of herself and the one who seems uncomfortably conscious of the fact that she never wore that dress before are two very distinct types. The very elegant Princesse evening gown illustrated is of black

satin, and simplicity itcclf combined with elegance. The sweeping folds ,uicl horn are ornamented l\y an iipphque of kiec, i\vo rovers of the srme lace appearing on the boclico, where a cluster of yellow roses nestle. The long transparent .'leaves are of black net, and folds cf yellow chiffon arc tied closely round the throat. The gown is lined v. ith yellow silk finished at the font with inner trills ot lace, which when th^ nearer walks <*hc3 the full effect so rlf>«uv.lr I f>«uv.l' 1 p at tho hpin. Peiticootrf and v triers' irig generally have, nowadays, to be veiy rcatly arranged and

fitted so that no unnecessary fulness at the waist, will interfere with the correct fit of a cress, and tins has, of course, 'in be particularly observed when a clinging iiown such a? the above is worn. Jt mu-l rot be forgotten, however, that if the material is reduced to a* small propoi lions as feasible with comfort,

both immediately l above and below the figure at ihe waist, there must be no lack of flowing folds from the knees downwards. Indeed, the very smartest model French underskirts aro so frilled raid flounced and decorated with insertions and trimmings of insertion, lace, and narrow rucked libbon at the hem that the wonder is how any skirt can bo worn over them at all ! Tlisj are dreams of beauty and as expensive A3 they are lovely, and, therefore, out of reach of most people.. Still it is from these and similar lovely garments that one can obtain many a useful hint to reappear in a lefs extravagant form in our own wardrobes. A very practical suggestion will be found in my sketch, which depicts a com bination camioole and petticoat, and is a piece of underwear almost a necessity when a gown of the Princesse fashion is worn. Sateen or mercerised cotton could be employed for making the upper part if silk were 100 expensive a material, but the deep flounce at the foot should undoubtedly be of silk. If a material 30in wide is used 14-yds will be found sufficient. Trimming of lace insertion or rucked ribbon should be ptit on the bodice, the shoulder straos finishing at the top in a small knot of ribbonr. The gaiment could he fastened with small, fiat buttons, ehher down the centre of the back or under the arm, in the latter instance one of thp shoulder straps necessarily buttoning and unbuttoning v/here it joins- the bodice in front. An accordeonpleated frill would look quite as well ss tho flounce, but give? a- great deal more work to the home die'smake: 1 . A flounced Princesie chemise which forms a combined chemise and under-petticoat is a useful bit of \mderwcar and could be w brn quite well in conjunction with the combinption camisole (or slip bodice) and petticoat The better to explain my meaning, I h;r>c given in thU illustration a sketch of this garment, which it will be observed lui>> a couple of deep darts at the waist to make the fit as neat as possible, the skirt being gored to

allow of the lequisite fulness at the foot where it qan be .simply finished by a deep hem and tucks, or, as in this instance, a couple of rows of4gcs insertion and a lace-edged ii'll. The material employed in its ionnation is, of course, cambric or law n, and the lace Valeiicienne''. Another mode can be obtained in which the dai'is are omitted and the (loth merely shaped at the uides and left loose in front and at the back, but for my own pait I should certainly recommend the other,' i vie, as the correct fit is more assured. — Yours truly, COQUETTE.