IN SOUTHERN SEAS.

Otago Witness, Issue 2369, 27 July 1899, Page 17

IN SOUTHERN SEAS.

.By Mrs Malcolm Ross. •

.THE WAIK ARE'S EXCUKSION. i

■ Gooa-bye New Zealand; good-bye to grey skies and muddy roads, conventionalities and etiquette, worry and bustle. We are bound on the good ship Waikare to sunny summer lands, where the politician prowleth not and life moves on gaily to the "ripple of blue seas and merry laughter. The crowd of people darkening the Aucklalnd wharf, where a passing shower caused a' mushroom crop of umbrellas to sprout, has faded into nothingness. Beautiful Rangitoto, misty blue against the sky, is passed, and we are turned towards the Pacific Islands, and have time to consider the little world on which for nearly six weeks we are to live. Even when of so short a stature a» to require to be perched on the pew seat to see "the minister, "India's Coral Strand" had a wondrous fascinatiou for me, and a coral reef was in my childish imagination a gleamy, snowy barrier of frozen foam between restless breakers and calm water. Folk -tell- me it is quite different, but" I intend to believe it till I see it otherwise. We are" to xisit on' our cruise islands •whose names, years ago, we learned reluctantly and forgot readily —groups of little vari-coloured dots sprinkled as if from a pepper-castor about a wide ocean—islands ■where quite recently lived the Fee Foh Fums of our childish nightmares, and where even now it is unsafe to wander far beyond the beaten track of the tourist. •There are about 180 passengers on the Waikare, and for the first two or three days they are occupied in studying one another, and diligently endeavouring to find out who is who. We have on board some distinguished names, and all are anxious to discover which is the Baron and which the Baronet, and which is Lord Tennyson's son. The Baron wears knickerbockers, the Baronet gold spectacles, but as yet no distinguishing marks of our Peot Laureate's relation have been detected. The captain on his cheery morning round among the deck chairs on the upper deck suggested we should be labelled with our names or with our numbers to save trouble. The ship's arrangements are so far excellent, and the army of stewards and stewardesses indefatigable in their attentions. The ■weather has helped to make things pleasanter, and through miles of blue water the Waikare has made her way .with comparative comfort, even to those who prefer to view the sea from the shore. "The saloon at dinner is a charming sight. The beautiful room itself, with its rows of shining yellow pillars and grey and blue velvet sofas, makes a fine setting for the smartly-dressed women and trim men who line the tables, gleaming with silver and glass, and strewn with dainty dishes. Above, round the curving sweeps of the music room, waits the second relay of diners, watching the pretty scene in the great mirror at the head of the stairs, listening the while to the music of the string band. As the pretty gowns sweep up the staircase'side by side with the most irreproachable of evening suits or the most speckless of uniforms, it is much more like being at a large hotel than on a steamer. By and bye, too, our pretty girls—and we have quite a number on board—will blossom forth into gayer garb and relinquish, the ■übiquitous tailor-mades for prints or muslins. Sunday was a day of drowsiness, with frequent interludes in the shape of meals. Service was conducted in the forenoon by the Rev. Mr Powell, but a few were still afraid to venture into the saloon. One man appeared in a frock coat with quite professional length of tails, and we had some hymns played ; otherwise it was difficult to remember in the lazy monotony of the day that at home church bells were ringing. But Monday was rather a trial to some on board, for tho Waikare rolled, and heaved and behaved in a way quite unbecoming a ship in the Pacific Ocean. But many of us have had to reconsider our ideas of the Pacific Ocean. One big lurch gent people who had never been introduced —as yet we have hardly steamed out of conventional rules—into each others' arms, dashed luncheon dishes into laps, and slid deck chairs and their occupants down the slope right up against the rail. But committees of all kinds were being formed, and those indefatigable folk who are to be found in every community were busy drawing up

lists of those on board willing to perform at concerts, or gathering subscriptions fur the coming, athletic sports. The more indolent, as the big rollers swayed them backwards and forwards, comforted themselves with_ the idea that on the morrow they would see their first land — a black rock, covered with low vegetation, rising from the wide waters, a little island, Pylstart by ! name, where years ago some poor Tongans, who were starting a fowl farm, were carried away by some of these despicable blackbirders who have cursed these paradises by their cruelties. But there is something distinctly reassuring in the sight of anything stable and solid after these heaving, restless waters. The first concert was held in the saloon on Monday evening, and, considering the rather rough weather and the want of preparation, was a decided' success. The men all sang love songs, strangely enough. As yet the comic element in our men passengers has not been utilised, but Miss R. M'Lean and Miss Cargill both gave amusing recitations. Our next concert is to be held on the upper deck, which is splendidly lit up. The barber's shop on board is quite a feature 'of the ship. In it can be got a wondrous selection of goods, from fringe nets to chocolate creams. It is said that, despite the rolling waves and limpness of many of our lady passengers, the owner of the shop has sold already £5 worth of chocolates. " There will be brisk trade in sweets when everyone is up and about. .Two large canvas baths have been rigged lip for the men on deck, and, to judge from the .enthusiastic remarks overheard afterwards from those -who have enjoyed a plunge, they must be delightful. The ladies, it is said, are petitioning for a similar privilege. We may perhaps add aquatic sports to the long list of athletic competitions that are being organised. There is no end to the menu of amusements that are in prospect. A girls' cricket match, eight a-side, caused much fun and a good deal of excitement, for the ship was rolling and the ball was wet, and never was caught or missed without delightful little squeals. Miss Mendelsohn, of Temuka, made a large score, and played like a feminine W. G. Grace. A progressive euchre party occupied the evening, and was heartily enjoyed, some of the passengers learning the game for the sake of joining in the fun. Dr Balls-Headley, of Melbourne, is a perfect chairman, and has interested himself much in making the time pass pleasantly. He presented the prizes won by Miss Walker, of Bendigo, and MiGraham, of Sydney, in a very witty speech. The booby prize for the gentlemen was a wooden sword, "To be used," said the doctor, " against , the cannibals we might meet in savage islands." TONGA. ' Our first view of Tonga, a low, green, serrated island, edged with flashing lines of beach, with stretches of beryl-green water beyond the purple of the breakers, was got at sunrise. Island after island came into sight, the further ones mere grey blues on the horizon, the nearer ones touched into green and gold glory by the sunlight. A scarlet flag was run up from an island, and the pilot boat put off, but the Tongan pilot, a shaggy-headed officiaj, gravely important in blue and brass buttons, missed the rope, and the good ship swept on, leaving the little red-flagged boat far behind. But again we have nad most un-Pacific weather, and the first* launch that started came back after much stress and struggle with the unhappy occupants drenched to the skin. Boat load after boat load, however, breasted its way to the long stone wharf, where all the inhabitants of Nukualofa were gathered. The white houses of Nukualofa are stretched along the background of cocoanut palms. Mount Zion, a mere molehill in other countries, is crowned by the church, au& the palace peeps from behind a tall pine. Down at the steps, on the other side of the Waikare, rocks a little boat trimmed with delightful coloured masses of fruit and flowers — organ, amber, crimson, and emerald, — and a handsome Tongan, dressed in clinging cream cotton, is squatting among his shells on the deck. The wind is strong, but hot, and the crisp coolness of yesterday is a memory. We are in at last, and must go ashore to explore our first coral island.

The habit of truth-telling, when once contracted, is almost as inveterate as that of lying. — Temple Bar. Mr O. B". -Carter, driver of the second excursion train concerned in the Rakaia railway accident, writes to the Press, contradicting the statement. that he has taken a position as an enginedriver at the Orepuki coal mine. He adds that he is still under the suspension imposed by the Railway department.