LONDON FASHION NOTES.

Otago Witness, Issue 2369, 27 July 1899, Page 53

LONDON FASHION NOTES.

LONDON, June 9. Dear Emmeline, — "Ash white" is the designation of the newest shade of pale grey. So delicate is it that it is almost white in colour, and it is a very charming shade, but not at all suitable for the possessor of a elender purse. In Bond street, yesterday, I

saw a dress of ash white cloth worn by a wellknown figure in fashionable circles. The gown had trimmings of white silk and silver embroidery. This season's pale biscuit tones and fawns, apple greens, duck egg blues, faint lilacs, and •wood violets in voile and other transparent materials, prettily embroidered with light and airy patterns of white, quite defy description. These are always, or very nearly always, made over white or colour. The foundation it is essential to remember, must now either be soft veiling or non-rustling silk ; the clinging tendency still holds sway over all.

This season the turquoise blue shade is mosi, popular with light grey, just a3 was the yellow of last season and pink of former times. Of course, there are many combinations of grey and white, and grey and wood violet are popular with a certain select few. There are many instances of grey used with yellow, and grey with pink, but it must be admitted that the latter has become rather too hackneyed a combination, and for that reason the " swellest " people have abandoned it, for the time at any rate.

Most of the new " frocks " have yokes, rounded for choice, of lace or chiffon or soft silk, prettily handled, and now it has become" orthodox for the top of the sleeve to be formed of the same material as the trimming. It is a style which suits those who are narrowshouldered and slight, as it makes such a figure look much broader, but,- like every other fashion it is, often adopted by those who are naturally as broad as they are long. It is a fatal error. The top of the sleeve thus treated generally has the silk inserted in a pointed manner, and where it unites with the material of the gown there is a row of fancy braid or of gauged chiffon. Sleeves for wear in the daytime for out-of-door occasions are still cut far over the hands where they are finished with points or tabs. For indoor reception gowns elbow sleeves are favoured. Rucked sleeves ~in transparent materials are etill much worn, but of course this style is no longer "new." Many are the variations made in the mode of rucking, but the latest way is to arrange the gauging round and round the arm in a continuation of small puffings from the shoulder to the wrist, with the chemisette en suite. It is a style not exactly pretty, but i 9 becoming for those who have angular arms, and it is a style just the reverse when plumpness has to be coped with;

Washing fabrics for complete dresses, for •mart blous«3, and for the useful everyday plain phirts are in endless variety. The white embroidered muslins, both the Indian and silk varieties, lavishly trimmed with masses of billowy lace, have been tremendously worn during the very warm, weather of the past fortnight. These muslins have formed a prominent characteristic of the people who frequent the park every afternoon. Many people elect to keep their muslin dresses all white, barring, perhaps, a tcrach of colour at the throat and waist, while crowds of others prefer to have their muslin robes made over colour. While some wear narrow ribbon or taffeta belts, others have a very broad folded band round the waist ; some have wide watered ribbon, with a bow and lonor fringed ends falling down the back; others prefer the sashes of chiffon with plentifully decorated ends. A twist of tiyo shades of ribbon of chiffon round the waist is often highly effective, and has the merit of lending further variety, a characteristic not to be despised when there are so many thousands of persons to provide for. Hyde Park presents a scene of the gayest description just now. Each afternoon there are hundreds and hundreds of private carriages bowling along with gailydressed occupants, while the grass is thickly covered with bummer "visions" in their fullest glory. There is always a perfect sea of lovely sunshades. But I have wandered away from materials.

The printed muslins are nearly all fascinating, and many of the soft Japanese silks are flowered in the same manner as were the once fashionable delaines. Stripe 3 and checks abound. The bayadere stripe has not been by any means abandoned yet ; spots are constantly seen, and so are unfigured materials. Cotton goods are marvellously cheap this year, even the newer classes being quite within the means of all. There are fancy figured silk zephyrs, cotton zephyrs embroidered with white ; figured batist is immensely used for shirts and blouses; for the same purpose drill and cambric are in large demand. There is a French material which is a mixture of silk and linen which looks very good, and which washes admirably. It is made in a variety of colours, and the lines are generally raised which helps to make the 'stuff look much richer and better than in reality it is. Alpacas, both striped and plain, 100, are used for blouses. Then, eorno of tho better class cohlon Roods have open-work stripes of white embroidery or insertion running their entire length or a la bayadere. Then for boating and tennis there are very lovely flannels in self colours, stripes and checks. The colours are all becoming and lasting, and perhaps that in which turquoise blue predominates is most in request. On viyella, orlwoola, woolnlone — for those are some of their names — among other kind?, there has been "a tremendous run, for the flannels are guaranteed fast colours and unshrinkable, and are, moreover, inexpensive.

Talking of yachting, by the way. and of outdoor pastimes generally, reminds me of the introduction into our midst of the " Alliance tie." There is a great outburst of patriotism beino; displayed at present by the hosiers. The Union Jack is twisted into ties, and so are the American Stars and StripeF. The "Alliance tie" consists of a union of the two. Of course, such vivid colours would be Tather out of keeping with black morning coats, but for outdoor occasions, with light flannels, they are almost sure to be largely popularised. I am told that the Prince of "Wales has invested in a number of these lies, and this in itself ought to make things •" hum." Primarily, of course, they are intended for men, but l.he fair devotees of the tie will not be slow in following suit so far as the "Alliance" brand of neckwear is concerned.

As . so many of the fashionable ties for womenkind, both of silk and of lace, are of the kind which must pass twice round the neck and fasten in front with a natty little brooch or some fancy pins, a new fastener has been brought out, but it is meant for the class of tie which has to be freshly knotted every time it is put on. It is in the form of a little chain with a fancy ball at each end. It is passed round the tie near the throat, where it holds the former in position. The fashion is a decidedly pretty one. Moreover, when tho little article is of gold and ornamented with Teal Kerns, and the owner has no tie on which to display it, she will find use for it somewhere else. Therefore, «s pockets are often abandoned altogether on account of the tightness of the fashionable skirts, some women have been -Been with their hand-

Eihbl R. PENJA.MIK, Barrister and Solicitor, Albert Buildinga, Princes street, Dunedm (opposite C.P.0.), has trust nioneya to lend oa approved security. — Adrt

kerchiefs fastened to the sticks of their sunshades by means of these little novelties.

Fashions como and go very quickly. Something is now to supersede the use of tulle strings on our summer hats and toques. It is the latest fad of the Parisians to select, instead of tulle or narrow black velvet, a brond white glace silk ribbon for the purpose of keeping the headgear firmly fixed on the head. It ties under the chin in a large bow. Tn London, however, such has not found patrons, for on tulle all faith is pinned at present to the entire exclusion of all else. ]sut doubtless the white glace ribbon will find a place ere long, for even the best quality of tulle requires to be renewed pretty frequently and therefore i 3 extravagant wear. — Tours truly, - ZEALIA.